Peerless?

[ChaseMe]

I've been browsing around for a few weeks looking into this DIY stuff and am quite interested in giving it a run for a subwoofer. So far a PR system is what I'm interested in using Peerless woofers. I barely see talk about Peerless though so I'm wondering if these are a good choice? Any opinions?

[hooha]

Originally posted by ChaseMe
I've been browsing around for a few weeks looking into this DIY stuff and am quite interested in giving it a run for a subwoofer. So far a PR system is what I'm interested in using Peerless woofers. I barely see talk about Peerless though so I'm wondering if these are a good choice? Any opinions?

If you are specifically talking about the Peerless subwoofer lineup, there's TONS of talk and plenty of insight/tests/opinions on them. Just search the archives...

Mark

[hifidan]

Here are 2 10 inch subs XLS (with PR) that I built. They are vary good for HT but they dont go low enough for music -3db at 30 hz. I also buILT iSO subs using the classic line. THose go -3db 22hz and are really good for music. The are much easier to bottom than the XLS.

cheers

[hifidan]

Here is another shot
cheers

[Madmike2]

Originally posted by hifidan
Here are 2 10 inch subs XLS (with PR) that I built. They are vary good for HT but they dont go low enough for music -3db at 30 hz. I also buILT iSO subs using the classic line. THose go -3db 22hz and are really good for music. The are much easier to bottom than the XLS.

cheers

You got that backwards right ? They are good for music but lacking depth for artificial sound effects in movies ? I dont think a stand up bass or a grand piano do much below 35 hz. I might be wrong. I usually am.

[paulspencer]

It depends on your taste in music and movies! I have a RTA in my system and I can tell you there is plenty of signal below 40 Hz in most recordings. It's a question of being able to move enough air to get sufficicent output to make the extra depth worthwhile.

The XLS is a great driver, but due to its parameters, it needs eq to get down low. The new XXLs drivers are worth looking at as well.

It tends to give up a bit of extension however, due to the small size of boxes in which it is normally used.

If I was in the US or Canada, I'd probably be more interested in drivers like the TC sounds TC2+ driver, or the new drivers from Ascendant Audio.

[hifidan]

Hi Paul, you are right about EQing for the XLS LINE, I have to use an ART EQ-231 to limit the roll off below 40 hz. i actually apply +4 db at 40hz, +6 db at 32hx and +12 deb at 25 z to extend the basse response. Otherwise, the small box drops like a rock starting from 40 hz.

On the contrary, the Peerless Classic line in a 75 liters reflex box extend way down to 25 hz with only a + 4 db correction. However, like I was saying the classic line will bottom heavely with HT signals because it has only half the Xmm that the XLS line has
In my setup I combine the 2, using the EQ, I turn down the volume of the Classics on HT and I keep both lines for music. Great stuff for a minimum amount of money spent if you compare with commercialsubs out there.

Have a great sunday or it is monday??
Dan

[makthom]

What about trying it with 2 PR from Stryke?
Thiele Small parameters:
Fs (Hz) 4.9
Qms 51.96
VAS (ltrs) 978
Mms (g) 1050
Cms (mm/N) 1.0
Sd (cm&#178 830
Xmax (in) 2" p-p

How low f3 can you achieve with it?

[simon5]

The lowest F3 according to WinISD would be with a single PR from Stryke, the model with the lowest mass, 700g. F3 would be around 35 Hz anechoic with a 50 liters box. In room, you could achieve a F3 of about 25 Hz with the 1050g model with the same box size.

Achieving a low F3 with two PRs is harder. Also, when you factor in the cost of two PRs and the cost of the Peerless subwoofer, you can forget the PRs and buy a Ascendant Audio Avalanche 12, or a Acoustic Elegance AV12, or something like that.