pioneer sub 4 home use. what enclosure??

[felzi]

hi, i have built a 2 enclosures b4, one for the car and one for home. i have just purchased a PIONEER TS-W384C (15") sub and want to build an enclosure for it but am unsure what type would suit the home environment.
the manual recomends anything from sealed to band pass, is the horn enclosure any good??? would it be worth building one of them.

Thanks:-)

[ocool_15]

you should post the t/s parameters of the sub

[felzi]

TS-W384C Specs

15" 350 wrms


sensitivity: 91db/w
impedance: 4 ohm
Revc: 3.0 ohm
levc: 2.60mH
Fs: 20.7Hz
Qms: 10.238
Qes: 0.317
Qts: 0.308
Vas: 11.350cu.ft
321.62lt
Rms: 2.375N.S/m
Mms: 185.83g
cms: 3.180x10-4m/N
Diam: 12.9"
328mm
bl: 15.668T.m
xmax: .36"
9.2mm

[ocool_15]

looks like ported would be best but would be worth trying in a horn. If thats the same model as the pioneer 305C(12") and 255C(10") I would back that up for sure as I have experience with those.
I've never heard a horn so cannot recommend them. In house you want a low tuning like 28Hz-19Hz depending on the room.

subwoofer
Qts<0.3 hornloading

0.3<Qts<0.4 basreflex

0.4<Qts<0.55 closed box

Qts>0.55 infinite baffle/dipole

[felzi]

can anyone recomend any good programs to make an enclosure,
i have win isd, what programs are their to make a horn enclosure.

[GM]

Greets!

Sure! How much room can you afford to allocate to it, how low/high does it need to go? Horns can get really big really quick below ~200Hz, especially with a large driver, which means a large throat, ergo a larger mouth than if a smaller driver is used.

A-J horn, Hornresp, and MJK's Mathcad WS (if it's still available) are the only ones I'm aware of. Not familiar at all with A-J, Hornresp has an optimizer IIRC, MJK's (quarterwavelength.com) requires that you either know what you want and just want to sim it or have the time to spend endless hours trying different combination of dims. It's limited to only three flare different flare factors so very limited WRT designing sub/LF BW horns that require slower expansions for best performance.

Really, unless you have a bunch of room and/or above average woodworking skills to make an intricately folded one, this driver will limit you to a fairly strong midbass horn with a much rolled off 30-55Hz Fc depending on the design. Here's one for the Adire Tempest that should work:
http://web.archive.org/web/200410100...eFrameText.htm
http://web.archive.org/web/200506031...sHornPlans.pdf

If a lower gain back loaded horn/~35Hz Fc is acceptable, then the Jensen Imperial should work well: http://www.decware.com/imperial.htm

GM

[darth_sanchez]

u probably can use it in a horn, i have got the TS-W305c in a 35hz horn enclosure and it has got potential!

[paulspencer]

For a conventional sub, I suggest WinISD PRO .... note not the regular version!

You could make a compact sealed sub and get moderate output

or you could make a bigger box and go vented and get about 6db more output ~ 60% more

You would want to model it first since this being a car sub, it's designed for a very different environment where a small space boosts the low end.

[felzi]

thanks for all your help.
the horn is looking to be a bit big for the room its in.
what are your idea's on a 6th order bandpass enclosure.
I've had a look on winisd but it looks as if im limited to between 30Hz and 85hz ,
i was looking more for 30Hz to 110Hz,
maybe i should just stick to a vented box???

[paulspencer]

As a VERY general rule, the better the sub the higher you can cross it. Hence if the driver isn't so good, you want to cross it lower. I found this to be true with a cheapie sub I built for my parents - it was fine below say 50 Hz but up above that point it started to sound ... well cheap.

So 85 Hz isn't bad actually

however, a bandpass isn't exactly the last word on fidelity, a 6th order and above bandpass will give you more output at the cost of accuracy, most here would say it's not worth it for music unless you aint fussy!

A vented box is probably a good way to go ...