KEF B139 as subwoofer

[TheBaronGroog]

To wire the speakers in stereo just wire one to each channel of the amp +ve 2 +ve and -ve 2 -ve, if you reverse the mounting of one driver (so you can see the basket and not the cone) you just wire that one the other way round (so -ve from amp to +ve on speaker)-benefit of doing this is the cancelation of driver nonlineararities and 2nd harmonic distortion-results in cleaner bass, less distortion-but some people don't like it as 2nd harmonics often give the "warm" sound and less distortion makes it sound quieter-put simply human ears register distortion as loudness.

Have you got the plans for your enclosure, planning a tapped horn for mine-though your does look cool and takes up MUCH less space-which would get a tick off the missus

[awty]

Thanks Barron
If you could possibly draw me a mud map, that would be great. I cant follow worded directions (theres something wrong with my brain processing).

It actually doesn't sound too bad the way it is. Your right that its a little muddy/warm and the teac is warm sounding to (not the Roksan which is very sharp and fast), but the teac allows me a lot more adjusting, even per channel.

I've been listening to live streaming jazz and the bass rifts are good and clarinet is brilliant....well to my untrained ears.

I put a couple of pillows on top and behind (allowing a bit of space) and that has given it a lot more depth.

I basicly bought a plank of 45mm x 240mm x3600mm and a packet of 3" batton screws (about $50 in total) and made it fit to that. Didnt have quite enough left over for the back plate so I used a bit of MDF for now. Stained it in wallnut and deck oil.....Oh I rebated the panel holding the speakers into the top and bottom panel to give it more strength. Also the side panels are longer so it sits on them. Weighs about 28 killo's.

I have one of those treble blockers they advertise on ebay coming, to see how that goes and then I'll give the push, push configuration a go and see whats best for me.

Its a cheap easy project and doesn't work too bad.

[awty]

Thanks Barron
If you could possibly draw me a mud map, that would be great. I cant follow worded directions (theres something wrong with my brain processing).

It actually doesn't sound too bad the way it is. Your right that its a little muddy/warm and the teac is warm sounding to (not the Roksan which is very sharp and fast), but the teac allows me a lot more adjusting, even per channel.

I've been listening to live streaming jazz and the bass rifts are good and clarinet is brilliant....well to my untrained ears.

I put a couple of pillows on top and behind (allowing a bit of space) and that has given it a lot more depth.

I basicly bought a plank of 45mm x 240mm x3600mm and a packet of 3" batton screws (about $50 in total) and made it fit to that. Didnt have quite enough left over for the back plate so I used a bit of MDF for now. Stained it in wallnut and deck oil.....Oh I rebated the panel holding the speakers into the top and bottom panel to give it more strength. Also the side panels are longer so it sits on them. Weighs about 28 killo's.

I have one of those treble blockers they advertise on ebay coming, to see how that goes and then I'll give the push, push configuration a go and see whats best for me.

Its a cheap easy project and doesn't work too bad.

[sreten]

Originally Posted by awty

I have one of those treble blockers they advertise on ebay coming,

H,

????????, a block of porous foam (quite soft) between the units but not
touching is a good idea, jam the same behind the magnet each side also.

rgds, sreten.

[TheBaronGroog]

Glad it works well for you-might give it a try

The "diagram" shows the way you have it wired in green and the way you could wire it if you reverse mount one driver in red. Basic skills sketch in paint!

[awty]

Thanks Sreten & Baron.
I'll give it a go and see what I like.
The treble blocker turned up to, but I only got one so I might need another to connect in stereo.
Also picked up the stuff to connect the tweeters.

[454Casull]

Originally Posted by awty

Thanks Barron
If you could possibly draw me a mud map, that would be great. I cant follow worded directions (theres something wrong with my brain processing).

It actually doesn't sound too bad the way it is. Your right that its a little muddy/warm and the teac is warm sounding to (not the Roksan which is very sharp and fast), but the teac allows me a lot more adjusting, even per channel.

I've been listening to live streaming jazz and the bass rifts are good and clarinet is brilliant....well to my untrained ears.

I put a couple of pillows on top and behind (allowing a bit of space) and that has given it a lot more depth.

I basicly bought a plank of 45mm x 240mm x3600mm and a packet of 3" batton screws (about $50 in total) and made it fit to that. Didnt have quite enough left over for the back plate so I used a bit of MDF for now. Stained it in wallnut and deck oil.....Oh I rebated the panel holding the speakers into the top and bottom panel to give it more strength. Also the side panels are longer so it sits on them. Weighs about 28 killo's.

I have one of those treble blockers they advertise on ebay coming, to see how that goes and then I'll give the push, push configuration a go and see whats best for me.

Its a cheap easy project and doesn't work too bad.

Is the voice coil grounded to the frame of that driver, or is that rusty-looking washer actually insulation for the terminal?

[awty]

Originally Posted by 454Casull

Is the voice coil grounded to the frame of that driver, or is that rusty-looking washer actually insulation for the terminal?

That rusty looking washer is a fibre washer. Not sure if it isolates the terminal from the frame. Should it?

[TheBaronGroog]

Originally Posted by 454Casull

Is the voice coil grounded to the frame of that driver, or is that rusty-looking washer actually insulation for the terminal?

That's how they come, and yes insulation

Originally Posted by awty

That rusty looking washer is a fibre washer. Not sure if it isolates the terminal from the frame. Should it?

Yes, it insulates the terminal from the frame.