PLease help designing my first sub. - Page 3

JiggaD369 · 14th April 2005, 11:00 PM

ya im sorry. i was reffering to the 85L box. but im gonna try to cut as close as possible to an straight edge. i thought that if its not staright, it would effect the frequency or sound output. other than that ive got everything staright forward. i only need to buy couple tools and i should be ok.

finsih, i think im gonna go with veneer because it looks easier. and atlas is final i think for the driver. im gonna start everything start of next month.

mateo88 · 14th April 2005, 11:20 PM

I'm not sure if you're a noob when it comes to woodworking or not (sorry if you aren't), but using a guideboard makes it easy to do straight cuts with a jigsaw. Just nail a straight board along the line of your cut using finishing nails, and saw down that.

Again, sorry if you already knew this, but it actually took me longer than I would have liked to figure this out.

Raoul · 15th April 2005, 01:04 AM

Good suggestion about the jigsaw guide.

I've been running some simulations on WinISD. I wasn't so sure about the Atlas 12 at first, as Shiva was showing better response curves in the EBS box. However, the mid-Qts option (short the gold terminals with 1.5ohm resistor) is producing some nice results.

JiggaD369 · 15th April 2005, 02:08 AM

what do you mean Raoul? short which terminals?

Raoul · 15th April 2005, 11:05 AM

http://www.ascendantaudio.com/Atlas%...-S%20specs.htm

See the bottom of the page.

JiggaD369 · 15th April 2005, 07:15 PM

aahhh i got ya. it says 1.5 ohm resistor but how many watts does the resistor need to be?

Raoul · 16th April 2005, 10:24 AM

A five watter should do. There are some tradoe-offs in power handling and efficiency, though. Here is a link to an article describing the operation:

http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Tech...OOperation.pdf

Brett · 16th April 2005, 02:26 PM

Jigga, once you decide on a box design, draw it all up on a piece of paper to make a 'cut sheet' showing how you're going to cut all of the pieces from the 8x4 or 5x5 and take it to a cabinetmaker/kitchen place and have them cut all of the pieces to size for you on a large saw table. You'll get MUCH more accurate results and it will only cost a modest amount and save a ton of time and hassle. Think about how to do it carefully and explain to the guy doing the cutting what you actually want to do with all the panels and let him wrk out the logistics of the cutting. For example, all 4 sides of a stereo pair could be rough cut, then finally dimensioned on the saw all at once, so they're all the same size. Ring around in the yellowpages in your area and ask if they'll do it and how much it'll cost for a cash job.

JiggaD369 · 16th April 2005, 05:38 PM

Raoul, i think ill with standard 5w 1.5 ohm resistor just to be on the safe side.

Brett, thats some nice suggestions. ya i already laid out the cut out on a sheet and i can get all of the wood required from a 8'x4' sheet of MDF. ill try to get it cut at home depot.

Raoul · 16th April 2005, 08:58 PM

It looks like a 39cm long, 10.20cm diameter tube gives a better response with the Atlas 12. 45cm looks even better (lower group delay) but might introduce port turbulance. You will have to adjust the length for the flared ends.

Watch out for cuts at Home Depot. If the dimensions aren't correct the whole box will be off. As Brett said, it can be a real headache.

To simon5 (or others): You seem pretty familar with WinISD, is there a feature that warns of audible vent noise?

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14th April 2005, 11:00 PM	#21
JiggaD369 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: New Jersey	ya im sorry. i was reffering to the 85L box. but im gonna try to cut as close as possible to an straight edge. i thought that if its not staright, it would effect the frequency or sound output. other than that ive got everything staright forward. i only need to buy couple tools and i should be ok. finsih, i think im gonna go with veneer because it looks easier. and atlas is final i think for the driver. im gonna start everything start of next month.

14th April 2005, 11:20 PM	#22
mateo88 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Argyle, Texas	I'm not sure if you're a noob when it comes to woodworking or not (sorry if you aren't), but using a guideboard makes it easy to do straight cuts with a jigsaw. Just nail a straight board along the line of your cut using finishing nails, and saw down that. Again, sorry if you already knew this, but it actually took me longer than I would have liked to figure this out.

15th April 2005, 01:04 AM	#23
Raoul diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: OR	Good suggestion about the jigsaw guide. I've been running some simulations on WinISD. I wasn't so sure about the Atlas 12 at first, as Shiva was showing better response curves in the EBS box. However, the mid-Qts option (short the gold terminals with 1.5ohm resistor) is producing some nice results.

15th April 2005, 02:08 AM	#24
JiggaD369 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: New Jersey	what do you mean Raoul? short which terminals?

15th April 2005, 11:05 AM	#25
Raoul diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: OR	http://www.ascendantaudio.com/Atlas%...-S%20specs.htm See the bottom of the page.

15th April 2005, 07:15 PM	#26
JiggaD369 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: New Jersey	aahhh i got ya. it says 1.5 ohm resistor but how many watts does the resistor need to be?

16th April 2005, 10:24 AM	#27
Raoul diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: OR	A five watter should do. There are some tradoe-offs in power handling and efficiency, though. Here is a link to an article describing the operation: http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Tech...OOperation.pdf

16th April 2005, 02:26 PM	#28
Brett diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002	Jigga, once you decide on a box design, draw it all up on a piece of paper to make a 'cut sheet' showing how you're going to cut all of the pieces from the 8x4 or 5x5 and take it to a cabinetmaker/kitchen place and have them cut all of the pieces to size for you on a large saw table. You'll get MUCH more accurate results and it will only cost a modest amount and save a ton of time and hassle. Think about how to do it carefully and explain to the guy doing the cutting what you actually want to do with all the panels and let him wrk out the logistics of the cutting. For example, all 4 sides of a stereo pair could be rough cut, then finally dimensioned on the saw all at once, so they're all the same size. Ring around in the yellowpages in your area and ask if they'll do it and how much it'll cost for a cash job.

16th April 2005, 05:38 PM	#29
JiggaD369 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: New Jersey	Raoul, i think ill with standard 5w 1.5 ohm resistor just to be on the safe side. Brett, thats some nice suggestions. ya i already laid out the cut out on a sheet and i can get all of the wood required from a 8'x4' sheet of MDF. ill try to get it cut at home depot.

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16th April 2005, 08:58 PM	#30
Raoul diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: OR	It looks like a 39cm long, 10.20cm diameter tube gives a better response with the Atlas 12. 45cm looks even better (lower group delay) but might introduce port turbulance. You will have to adjust the length for the flared ends. Watch out for cuts at Home Depot. If the dimensions aren't correct the whole box will be off. As Brett said, it can be a real headache. To simon5 (or others): You seem pretty familar with WinISD, is there a feature that warns of audible vent noise?