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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: OR
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I think your internal dimensions give you a 100 liter enclosure.
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Québec, Québec
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Your internal dimensions will be around 100 liters... I would go bigger to be able to tune lower, but if you can't, I understand. I would use another brace to hold the top and the bottom with the middle brace, because now only 4 sides are braced. Remember it's better if your braces are off center to remove undesireable resonance frequencies.
Your choice of amplifier is good. If you use 3/4" MDF all-around, you don't need to use stuffing if the box is well braced and you plan to crossover under 100 Hz. Stuffing will change the tuning of your box so you must be careful if you use it. One subwoofer facing forward and one subwoofer facing up is a bizzare idea. Usually you try to cancel non linearities, so one front and one back or one down and one up. To use one facing up or down, you need to check cone sag, most subwoofer drivers aren't made for that mode of operation.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
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You are right, 100 liters. Back to the Excel speadsheet....I am glad I have not started cutting MDF
....I will report back with my new design once complete.Thanks again for all the help and the sharp eyes!
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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OK- I actually had the CAD model correct, but my dimensions on my excel spreadsheet wrong, go figure. I added an extra brace, everything will be on center though.
The new internal dimensions are 23 5/16" square (after taking into account the extra braces).
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Québec, Québec
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Nice.
Why you didn't use 2 circles on your added brace instead of this oval? It would be a bit more strong. I'm a bit perfectionist hehe! Remember also to take into account the volume of the port and the volume of the driver. I guess you'll be close enough of 200 liters anyway! Good luck!
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