Keys to making a sub 'musical' or for 'HT, or a mix?

[GuyPanico]

I've decided I want my first DIY sub to be tuned to be as musical as possible. At first I wanted a mix of musical/home theater (biased towards the musical side). Now however, I want the most lifelike, clear, defined sound I can get out of my driver. Whatever I get out of the sub when movie watching, will still be adaquate for my tastes i'm sure. Unfortunantly i'm a newb and am unsure how to tune my ported cabinet to give me what i'm looking for. So here are the questions.

1) What ported box charactoristics favor a more realistic, musical sound?

2) How about for HT, or a mix?

3) I'm doing a tube enclosure, how should I damp it? I have dynamat at my disposal.

4) A little off my topic. From a nieghborly standpoint, would it be better to have the driver downfiring, and the ports up, or the other way around so the people downstairs aren't as disturbed by my audio enjoyment? I was probably going to be placing the sub on the tile in front of my unused fireplace. I'm assuming this will help reflect sound, rather then absorb and transmit it through the floor.

Thanks guys...all I can think to ask you gurus at the moment.

[f4ier]

1) Try the Bessel and/or SBB4 alignment. You'd want the ported box to have a near-sealed box response for musicality.

2) If you're into explosive movies [who isn't], you'd want as much extension and output as much as possible. So if you still want musicality for your audio-only software, then use non other than high excursion drivers so you can safely apply HT eq for when you're watching LOTR, SW etc.

3) Lining the inside enclosure walls should be sufficient. I'd add braces first before applying dynamat. Line the walls with polyfill as well. Stuffing doesn't hurt as long as both the driver(s) and port(s) have room to breath.

4) Unless you're crossing relatively high in frequency, driver orientation shouldn't matter as bass is omnidirectional anyway.


Mains and subwoofer integration makes a HELL of a difference in how musical the system sounds. Any sub, large or small, requires optimal room placement and integration.


Good luck and enjoy the new sub. BTW, which subwoofer will it be?




Isaac

[Cyrus_s]

Something to consider. If you choose to go downfiring, calculate the percentage of sag of your selected driver to be sure it'll perform to expectations.

Also, placing the sub on the tile won't help much.. either way your neighbors may hear/feel it. Depending how you are with the volume.

Stuff but don't overstuff.. brace and brace well.

hth,

[GuyPanico]

I'm using my old HSU ASW1201 automotive sub. I'm doing this on a budget, and always loved the way my HSU sounded.

I would go sealed, but my driver doesn't have enough lowend.

Edit: Also, the amp i'm going to be using (250watt part express amp) has a 6db boost @ 30hz. Hopefull that will help flatten curve.

*3.1cuft. is the max volume i'm constrained to.

[simon5]

Your design in WinISD is nice as it is.

I would remove the 30 Hz boost if you can, ASAP.

Your subwoofer will be flat in a room when you account for room gain. If you don't remove the 30 Hz boost, you will suffer from overexcursion at 30 Hz and it will be boomy at 30 Hz. 6 dB boost is HUGE, you really don't need that.

You could even tune it a bit lower if the port length is still ok. I would use a 4 inch diameter port.

3.1 cu.ft external or internal? If it's external, your box will be smaller than that... I built a 174 liters box, when I added bracing, wood thickness, port volume, amp volume and driver volume, I had 142 liters left.

[GuyPanico]

That is 3.1cuft final internal volume. After taking into account bracing, driver, etc. Although not taking into account dynamat (if I use it), which is about .07" thick.