Hello all,
This is my first post on this wonderful forum!!
I am looking at using this driver (W6-1139SC) for a small sub in s small room. This would be my first project in conjunction with some satellites. I want the sub to be smalland extend to around 35Hz and according to WinISD this little baby can do it.
What I am looking for is if anyone has used it and what were your designs and what do you think of the performance of your sub? I have been comparing it to the Dayton Quattro 8 inch (As you see, my emphasis is on small) and it actually seem to perform better in terms of extension, but it has less output with the same amount of power.
Any comments on designs and experience with either is welcome.
Duane
This is my first post on this wonderful forum!!
I am looking at using this driver (W6-1139SC) for a small sub in s small room. This would be my first project in conjunction with some satellites. I want the sub to be smalland extend to around 35Hz and according to WinISD this little baby can do it.
What I am looking for is if anyone has used it and what were your designs and what do you think of the performance of your sub? I have been comparing it to the Dayton Quattro 8 inch (As you see, my emphasis is on small) and it actually seem to perform better in terms of extension, but it has less output with the same amount of power.
Any comments on designs and experience with either is welcome.
Duane
Hi there, a 6 1/2 I think would give enough output if you get the install right and don't ask for much out of it. I had a 6 1/2 from an old stereo with barely 4mm excursion, I built a box about 0.89 cubic ft tuned to 30hz (for computer use). Didn't expect much but damn it gives great earthquake effect if you sit on the computer chair everything on the table rattles, probably cause I made the box so heavy with 3/4 inch mdf 
. You don't need to hear it, just feeling it is enough 
and extension down to feel 21hz too 
yup.
. You don't need to hear it, just feeling it is enough and extension down to feel 21hz too yup.well then the tangband might be great for me then. I would still like to find out about a sealed enclosure or using a passive radiator, like on of the Daytons on PE. I will do a rough ported design and place it here and you guys tell me what you think. I will use WinISD to get a box volume and then try to do a design from there. I will try to post some drawings and you guys can critique and make suggestions.
How does that sound?
Any other suggestions such as the use of a Passive radiator would be greatful as well, especially if its one of the affordeable daytons on PE.
Thanks
Duane
How does that sound?
Any other suggestions such as the use of a Passive radiator would be greatful as well, especially if its one of the affordeable daytons on PE.
Thanks
Duane
I'm working with the same driver at the moment. The plan is also to make a 2 satellite + 1 sub PC speaker set (w3-871 as sat elements)
Anyway, after analysing and measuring the t/s parameters myself I came to a conclusion that a ported design with this woofer is not practical. The tuning has to be too low and the port tube of decent diameter will never fit into the box
So I'm now going to use it in sealed box and actively EQ it to decent response with additional HP filter around 40Hz or so. In sealed box trying to get freq under 40 is wishful thinking in my opinion. The excursion is impressive on this unit, but it's still 6 inches - so something has to be sacrificed.
Ergo
Anyway, after analysing and measuring the t/s parameters myself I came to a conclusion that a ported design with this woofer is not practical. The tuning has to be too low and the port tube of decent diameter will never fit into the box
So I'm now going to use it in sealed box and actively EQ it to decent response with additional HP filter around 40Hz or so. In sealed box trying to get freq under 40 is wishful thinking in my opinion. The excursion is impressive on this unit, but it's still 6 inches - so something has to be sacrificed.
Ergo
Yhanks for the response guys.
well from WinISD, I see that if Iuse a slot port 1/4 inch high by the width of the box, the port should be sort enough. I will try this as I think the extra wood would be a good brace for the box. I will try and post my proposed design later. I dont have the experience or the equipment right now to mess with using equalisation unfortunately, so that is out of the question for me.
ergo , One question though; without the eq, do you know what the in room response of your sealed system might be??
thanks
Duane
well from WinISD, I see that if Iuse a slot port 1/4 inch high by the width of the box, the port should be sort enough. I will try this as I think the extra wood would be a good brace for the box. I will try and post my proposed design later. I dont have the experience or the equipment right now to mess with using equalisation unfortunately, so that is out of the question for me.
ergo , One question though; without the eq, do you know what the in room response of your sealed system might be??
thanks
Duane
I just finished a "little" pc speaker sub with the adire Koda 8 driver, which has 12mm xmax and fits in a pretty small box. I wound up using an 8" sonotube about 27" long with a 17" x 3" diameter port mounted in the other end cap. I have it standing up in a corner as a HT sub right now and it's quite capable and has in-room extension to the mid 20's.
Adire shows a .7 qts sealed alignment for this driver as being .35 ft^3, which is pretty small, if you prefer.
Adire shows a .7 qts sealed alignment for this driver as being .35 ft^3, which is pretty small, if you prefer.
Here is my first try at a design
Well I was fooling around with WinISD and I came up with this.
Its a ported box tuned to 31Hz. According to WinISD, this should give a -3db somewhere around 28.5 Hz. The box dimensions were compensated for the extra port and amp volume and to a lesser extent, the speaker volume, and leaves an approx volume of 0.53 ft^3. It uses a slot port that is only 5mm high so I hope that this is not a problem.
I hope the attached image is self explanatory enough as to what I plan to do. Any suggestions, just let me know.
Thanks
Well I was fooling around with WinISD and I came up with this.
Its a ported box tuned to 31Hz. According to WinISD, this should give a -3db somewhere around 28.5 Hz. The box dimensions were compensated for the extra port and amp volume and to a lesser extent, the speaker volume, and leaves an approx volume of 0.53 ft^3. It uses a slot port that is only 5mm high so I hope that this is not a problem.
I hope the attached image is self explanatory enough as to what I plan to do. Any suggestions, just let me know.
Thanks
Attachments
You might want to check the port velocity at your anticipated max power level in winISD... your port area equates to about a 1.5" diameter tube which seems kind of small for the tuning and excursions you're talking about.
Also, with your very "thin" slot design you'll have to be very precise with construction, since a .5mm error in the height, for example, will result in a 10% difference in your port area, messing with your tuning considerably.
Also, with your very "thin" slot design you'll have to be very precise with construction, since a .5mm error in the height, for example, will result in a 10% difference in your port area, messing with your tuning considerably.
Duane,
Firstly, I want to live where you do. Secondly, I am fooloing around with the same woofers. Currently, I have them in a sealed .5 cu ft. flat topped pyramid with a 70 watt plate amp. This is adequate but I know that more can come from the little beauties and am interested if anyone has good results from the PR route, as I have some of those on hand.
Cal
Firstly, I want to live where you do. Secondly, I am fooloing around with the same woofers. Currently, I have them in a sealed .5 cu ft. flat topped pyramid with a 70 watt plate amp. This is adequate but I know that more can come from the little beauties and am interested if anyone has good results from the PR route, as I have some of those on hand.
Cal
Cal,
come and visit anytime.
Tell me more about the sound and output of the sealed box, how low does it go, how much oomph does it give?
My room is a small room, its 11 x 11 with a sloping ceiling. the ceiling is hihger in someparts than the room is long!! I just want decent bass, I dont want to disturb the dormant dinosaurs living 1000 feet below.
I have made some mods to my design and decided upon a circular port, 41mm wide and I cant remember how long,but short enough to fit in the box without angles. I will post it abit later when I have the time. I am trying to eat dinner as I type!!
All designs using this driver are more than welcome!!!
Thanks
Duane
come and visit anytime.
Tell me more about the sound and output of the sealed box, how low does it go, how much oomph does it give?
My room is a small room, its 11 x 11 with a sloping ceiling. the ceiling is hihger in someparts than the room is long!! I just want decent bass, I dont want to disturb the dormant dinosaurs living 1000 feet below.
I have made some mods to my design and decided upon a circular port, 41mm wide and I cant remember how long,but short enough to fit in the box without angles. I will post it abit later when I have the time. I am trying to eat dinner as I type!!
All designs using this driver are more than welcome!!!
Thanks
Duane
2nd iteration
OK,
After fooling around in WinISD (BETA) again I came up with this second design. The port diameter is what I have available here to me, and its internal.
Just one other question; if port noise will be an issue with that diameter, then would using plumbing fittings to get angles and beable to turn the port be sufficient? I ask this because this would mean that the port would not be smooth at the joints and Idont know if this is a big problem. If it is the case I may have to consider an exterior port maybe? But if it is not a problem, then how do you measure it? would it be down the middle or do you take the distance of one side, then the other and take the average?
Thanks again
Duane
OK,
After fooling around in WinISD (BETA) again I came up with this second design. The port diameter is what I have available here to me, and its internal.
Just one other question; if port noise will be an issue with that diameter, then would using plumbing fittings to get angles and beable to turn the port be sufficient? I ask this because this would mean that the port would not be smooth at the joints and Idont know if this is a big problem. If it is the case I may have to consider an exterior port maybe? But if it is not a problem, then how do you measure it? would it be down the middle or do you take the distance of one side, then the other and take the average?
Thanks again
Duane
Attachments
I plan to make actual measurements of this unit in closed box (I have the box ready) and then using LspCad to design a compensation for rolloff and to cut the real low frequancies.... I hope I can get it done during the next week.
By then I should be receiveing my now souncard that will make it possible to simulate the crossover/eq scheme for the sub/sat combination.
I will let you know and post the results as soon as I have them.
Ergo
By then I should be receiveing my now souncard that will make it possible to simulate the crossover/eq scheme for the sub/sat combination.
I will let you know and post the results as soon as I have them.
Ergo
Duane,
I'll be there next week. Please have a cold one ready for me.
The little boxes are OK and the 70 watt amp is enough. Extension is not too great.
Last night I got speaker horny so I went down and popped the woof into a 1 cu ft. box along with a 10" drone cone. Moocho bettero. Gives me goosebumps now. Or maybe that was the beer, or the girl nibbling on my ear, not sure.
Anyway I don't have measuring equipment so I can only tell you that it sounds better now, not what it measures.
Oh, and before I cut the drone hole, I popped the woofer in there by itself. Much better extension in the bigger box. What a surprise eh?
Cal
I'll be there next week. Please have a cold one ready for me.
The little boxes are OK and the 70 watt amp is enough. Extension is not too great.
Last night I got speaker horny so I went down and popped the woof into a 1 cu ft. box along with a 10" drone cone. Moocho bettero. Gives me goosebumps now. Or maybe that was the beer, or the girl nibbling on my ear, not sure.
Anyway I don't have measuring equipment so I can only tell you that it sounds better now, not what it measures.
Oh, and before I cut the drone hole, I popped the woofer in there by itself. Much better extension in the bigger box. What a surprise eh?
Cal
Hey Cal,
Thats cool, but know you wont have a drinking buddy in me as I scarcely touch alcohol
Which PR did you use?? Is it one of the cheap Dayton ones?? please say yes!! was the box volume gross or net? I really want to know cuz I am ready to order he stuff man.
For that one reason I wish I livd where you are. Its soo much easier to buy good stuff at affordable prices. I can guarantee you that the Dayton titanic MKII 10 inch which sells for $100 would probably cost $250 -$300 here easy, and they dont sell anything else here other than Pyramid, Nippon America, Pioneer, Audio Pipe and some other no name brand stuff that are really cheap in the US but cost us an arm and a leg here.
Thats cool, but know you wont have a drinking buddy in me as I scarcely touch alcohol
Which PR did you use?? Is it one of the cheap Dayton ones?? please say yes!! was the box volume gross or net? I really want to know cuz I am ready to order he stuff man.
For that one reason I wish I livd where you are. Its soo much easier to buy good stuff at affordable prices. I can guarantee you that the Dayton titanic MKII 10 inch which sells for $100 would probably cost $250 -$300 here easy, and they dont sell anything else here other than Pyramid, Nippon America, Pioneer, Audio Pipe and some other no name brand stuff that are really cheap in the US but cost us an arm and a leg here.
Opinions on this multitool
oh and one more quick question. Do you think for a novice DIyer, with no intention of building speaker projects too often if this Black & Decker Multitool is suitable? I don't intend to build a speaker project a month so I didnt feel that I needed to spend money on individual tools that I would probably use three times a year if that much.
Any of you guys own one of these and like/hate it?
Duane
oh and one more quick question. Do you think for a novice DIyer, with no intention of building speaker projects too often if this Black & Decker Multitool is suitable? I don't intend to build a speaker project a month so I didnt feel that I needed to spend money on individual tools that I would probably use three times a year if that much.
Any of you guys own one of these and like/hate it?
Duane
Re: Opinions on this multitool
Thr drones I have are some that Al Wooley from RAW Acoustics gave me. I have no further info. They are actual drones, not a modified driver. The box was approx 1cuft net.
Yes, cheap in the US. And not priced bad in Canada where I am.
Yes that multi tool is great for starters. Just don't expect to get the job done as quickly as if you had more substatial tools. I think those combos are terrific for the price and what they do.
Cal
That's OK, my beer is DIY, made in my basement.DuaneLewis said:
Thr drones I have are some that Al Wooley from RAW Acoustics gave me. I have no further info. They are actual drones, not a modified driver. The box was approx 1cuft net.
Yes, cheap in the US. And not priced bad in Canada where I am.
Yes that multi tool is great for starters. Just don't expect to get the job done as quickly as if you had more substatial tools. I think those combos are terrific for the price and what they do.
Cal
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