I just got my partsexpress 240 watt amp. Everything was going good, i was using it to power the little 100 watt RMS ten in my closet, and getting pretty good results. Now im a bit curious to see how much excursion im getting, so i pull it out of the closet, start a bass scene with heavy infrasound, cone starts moving, then CLICK and nothing. I felt the amp, and the heatsink was a bit hot, but i wouldnt mind putting my face on it(not that hot at all). I dont think driver is blown, it pushes in and out with no sound. Is it because the impedance drops a bit low on the driver(its a car audio driver, 4 ohm SVC)? is it because of a faulty amp? or any other suggestions? i was only giving the sub 150 watts, so it wasnt hard on the amp.
Operating the subwoofer driver without a box may have allowed it to overexcurd and rip off spider wires or something similar. You need to check the voice coil for continuity with an ohm meter. If no meter get a flashlight battery and wire it to the speaker terminals. When you close the circuit the driver should make a click noise and the cone should move a little. The speaker should be disconnected from the amplifier for this test.
k heres what JUST happened. I decide to hook another of the SAME SUB up in series, to get 8 ohm load and power them with 50 watts each, they were pretty much fine up to 50 watts(mechanichal noise starts, not bottoming though.). so i thought HUH imagine that. The amp? well when it was giving them both 50 watts it was pretty hot, MUCH hotter than when i was using only one sub and 150 watts. So anyway i decide somethings not right, and hook up the OTHER driver, plays fine for all of 15 minutes, then i push it a bit, and after about 30 seconds CLICK amp goes into protect. This woofer has no dustcap, so i could feel the vc from the inside and it was HOT even through the former. WHAT is going on? both drivers still work fine, exept that they shut my amp off within a short period of time now(at any power pretty much).
i know the guy beside me, and he deserves it more than anyone else in the school. BUT i have found a solution to my problem, run both slightly shorted woofers, so each gets 60wrms, and i dont have to worry about frying. I tried a night without bass and it was hard, especially when youve just got a new gadget 
.
.I know the feeling, for both of the sentiments expressed. I am glad that you found something that will work for now.
...
It seems you may be laboring under a misconception. Speakers are a load to the amplifier of a certain impedance. the amplifier amplifies as commanded into the load until the speaker fries, the protection kicks in, the power supply droops too far to work or something blows up. Speakers don't draw watts. They also don't limit watts sent to (through) them. You may never blow these in any setup due to
The transient nature of music
The robustness of the drivers / the under-rating of their power capability
The lack of robustness of the amplifier
90dB is a lot louder than you think
and so is 1Watt.
etc.
then again you might fry them both.
All that said, I usually try to have a drastically high
amplifier watts / speaker watts
ratio, and since I am not a volume nut or basshead I have not (yet) blown any speakers.
...
It seems you may be laboring under a misconception. Speakers are a load to the amplifier of a certain impedance. the amplifier amplifies as commanded into the load until the speaker fries, the protection kicks in, the power supply droops too far to work or something blows up. Speakers don't draw watts. They also don't limit watts sent to (through) them. You may never blow these in any setup due to
The transient nature of music
The robustness of the drivers / the under-rating of their power capability
The lack of robustness of the amplifier
90dB is a lot louder than you think
and so is 1Watt.
etc.
then again you might fry them both.
All that said, I usually try to have a drastically high
amplifier watts / speaker watts
ratio, and since I am not a volume nut or basshead I have not (yet) blown any speakers.
I've blown may a speaker in my day, all the subs were on purpose, but a few tweeters by accident. Subs can be blown and still work. This happens in the instance that the coil gets hot enought to melt the varnish and short the coil, but not melt the actual copper. Now what it sounds like to me is that your amp is being pushed too hard due to low impedence on the subs. Thats why it keeps going in to the protection mode. The difference between 150 and 240watts isnt a very notciable in terms of loudness. I would try not to push the amp so hard.
first of all im aware how loud 1 watt is, and how loud 90db is. This amp sais that it is 4 ohm stable, and many installs have found this to be correct. So the amp is fine, its driving both of the subs in series right now FINE. This should work long enough for exams to end and for me to have a working tempest. Thanks for all the help, and I would just like to put in mention of how pleased I am with my partsexpress amp. The shipping was fast, the packaging was good, the amp is incredible.
One last question, what is the optimum(most volume gain) amount to stuff a 6 cu ft enclosure with polyfill? i heard it was 1 lb per cubic foot.
One last question, what is the optimum(most volume gain) amount to stuff a 6 cu ft enclosure with polyfill? i heard it was 1 lb per cubic foot.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.