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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I just got my partsexpress 240 watt amp. Everything was going good, i was using it to power the little 100 watt RMS ten in my closet, and getting pretty good results. Now im a bit curious to see how much excursion im getting, so i pull it out of the closet, start a bass scene with heavy infrasound, cone starts moving, then CLICK and nothing. I felt the amp, and the heatsink was a bit hot, but i wouldnt mind putting my face on it(not that hot at all). I dont think driver is blown, it pushes in and out with no sound. Is it because the impedance drops a bit low on the driver(its a car audio driver, 4 ohm SVC)? is it because of a faulty amp? or any other suggestions? i was only giving the sub 150 watts, so it wasnt hard on the amp.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Cool end of a soldering iron NW of Toronto
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Operating the subwoofer driver without a box may have allowed it to overexcurd and rip off spider wires or something similar. You need to check the voice coil for continuity with an ohm meter. If no meter get a flashlight battery and wire it to the speaker terminals. When you close the circuit the driver should make a click noise and the cone should move a little. The speaker should be disconnected from the amplifier for this test.
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I.Q.Test. Have you ever purchased a recreational snowmobile? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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it wanst free air, my tempest is on the way so i hooked it up to my old sub.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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driver is NOT BLOWN. but smells kinda like burning. Whats going on? i just got my amp yesterday
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Austin
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Not blown, by what standard?
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Jesus loves you. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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k heres what JUST happened. I decide to hook another of the SAME SUB up in series, to get 8 ohm load and power them with 50 watts each, they were pretty much fine up to 50 watts(mechanichal noise starts, not bottoming though.). so i thought HUH imagine that. The amp? well when it was giving them both 50 watts it was pretty hot, MUCH hotter than when i was using only one sub and 150 watts. So anyway i decide somethings not right, and hook up the OTHER driver, plays fine for all of 15 minutes, then i push it a bit, and after about 30 seconds CLICK amp goes into protect. This woofer has no dustcap, so i could feel the vc from the inside and it was HOT even through the former. WHAT is going on? both drivers still work fine, exept that they shut my amp off within a short period of time now(at any power pretty much).
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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How are you measuring the amp power into the subs?
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Austin
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The one without the dustcap... does it still play? The dustcap helps cool the coil. If you shorted it (the coil, with heat) even partially, the load may be much for the amp... measured resistance on that driver?
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Jesus loves you. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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everything still jumps with a 9v, but if i partially shorted the coil then the amp would not be able to handle. Looks like i fried em both then
. At lest i know the tempest wont fry with this thing. i assumed the driver wouldnt jum if it shorted, oh well learn something new every day.
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