hi guys i have just recieved my shiva sub!
i was so excited until i connected it to my hifi amp (to test it out) and this disgusting rattling and farting noise came out!
i checked out the shiva and the spider isnt connected to the basket!!!
basically the sealent that connects the spider to the basket is completely torn off!!!
i connected the sub to the amp again, and i held the spider down against the basket, it works fine (until i let go obviously!!)
i dont really want to send it back because i am inpatient and the p&p will cost a lot (from england to the us)
so i've got 2 questions for you guys!!
1, what kind of sealent shall i use to repair it? what type of silicon??
2, if the spider is damaged will the voice coil be damaged too?? (i'm a bit of a novice to i dont know how sturdy voice coils are)
i'm begging for your help!!! please help me!!!
i was so excited until i connected it to my hifi amp (to test it out) and this disgusting rattling and farting noise came out!
i checked out the shiva and the spider isnt connected to the basket!!!
basically the sealent that connects the spider to the basket is completely torn off!!!
i connected the sub to the amp again, and i held the spider down against the basket, it works fine (until i let go obviously!!)
i dont really want to send it back because i am inpatient and the p&p will cost a lot (from england to the us)
so i've got 2 questions for you guys!!
1, what kind of sealent shall i use to repair it? what type of silicon??
2, if the spider is damaged will the voice coil be damaged too?? (i'm a bit of a novice to i dont know how sturdy voice coils are)
i'm begging for your help!!! please help me!!!
I can give you a suggestion though you better wait till some speaker guru posts a message.
I've used rubber based glue to glue the spider to the frame. After applying , you'll have to wait a long time for it to set well enough for use. Typically 24 hours I guess . You shouldnt disturb the cone as it should remain in the stationary position till the glue dries. Any manipulation can result in a disturbed setting and cause the coil to scrape at some point.
Apply the glue all round the base of the spider ( lift the spider with a thin flat screwdriver) . Let the spider sit in this thin glue and find it's own stress free position. Then after a few minutes you could very gently press down on the top edge of the spider to ensure it reaches the chassis. After that "wait". I would wait at least 24 hours.
So let's wait for some guru for a more informed suggestion.
Cheers.
I've used rubber based glue to glue the spider to the frame. After applying , you'll have to wait a long time for it to set well enough for use. Typically 24 hours I guess . You shouldnt disturb the cone as it should remain in the stationary position till the glue dries. Any manipulation can result in a disturbed setting and cause the coil to scrape at some point.
Apply the glue all round the base of the spider ( lift the spider with a thin flat screwdriver) . Let the spider sit in this thin glue and find it's own stress free position. Then after a few minutes you could very gently press down on the top edge of the spider to ensure it reaches the chassis. After that "wait". I would wait at least 24 hours.
So let's wait for some guru for a more informed suggestion.
Cheers.
i bought it from the adire website, in total it cost me $190 and £26 duty so with current exchange rates it cost me around £124
so it was cheap but the product is flawed! but hopefully i'll get it fixed and everthing will be fine!
thanx for your post ashok!!! can you recommend me a good rubber based glue please?
so it was cheap but the product is flawed! but hopefully i'll get it fixed and everthing will be fine!
thanx for your post ashok!!! can you recommend me a good rubber based glue please?
When I recieved the BP 1804's for my IB I was also bumed out to find that one of the spiders was never glued also! I though I was going to be in for a crappy ride, but after I contacted the company I bought it from and they talked to the build house the build house recommended using this adhesive.............
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/goop/ad_amazing.asp
They stated that it was every bit as good as the adhesive they used in their build house. So I went out to one large hardware store and found it and tried it. it has worked flawlessly for quite a while now and the bond it creates seems insanly strong. Hope this helps.
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/goop/ad_amazing.asp
They stated that it was every bit as good as the adhesive they used in their build house. So I went out to one large hardware store and found it and tried it. it has worked flawlessly for quite a while now and the bond it creates seems insanly strong. Hope this helps.
I can't recommend any brand name cause we have several local companies making this thing here.
Basically it is the same as teh glue used to repair the inner tube of bycycles. It's a rubber based glue. Just rubber dissolved in some solvent I think. When fully dry it is slightly elastic but quite tough. Perfect for your application and easy to use.
It can also be dissolved later , if required , by applying acetone or Xylene on it. Probably other solvents also.
So if you goof up badly , you can remove it. With other modern glues this may not be possible.
From what you said it looks like you only played the speaker for a very short time. It could have scraped the coil but I don't think you could have damaged it badly. The coils are pretty tough. Unless you physically press them they shouldn't get damaged so easily. A slight scrape on the outside shouldn't create much trouble. Just hope that the centering is not off. If you haven't done much manipulation to the cone it should probably be OK.
Cheers.
( Go to a cycle shop or general hardware shop. They should have it. Every general hardware shop over here has it. )
Wait for Adire's reply in any case.
To glue or not to glue
Go with the super glue. The rubber cement will work for a while. THe rubber cement is also known as contact cement. It glues only to itself. The downside of this is that it has a very modest peel strength. And a high peel strength is what you really want. Almost all drivers a made using super glues. They are tailored to the application as regard to toughening the bond and the glue itself. Look up the locktite website and do some searching. They have many products that are made for dealing with speakers. There are other companies out there as well.
Mark
Onetime speaker guru
Go with the super glue. The rubber cement will work for a while. THe rubber cement is also known as contact cement. It glues only to itself. The downside of this is that it has a very modest peel strength. And a high peel strength is what you really want. Almost all drivers a made using super glues. They are tailored to the application as regard to toughening the bond and the glue itself. Look up the locktite website and do some searching. They have many products that are made for dealing with speakers. There are other companies out there as well.
Mark
Onetime speaker guru
I would suggest you search through a manufacturer site like www.loctite.com to find a product suitable for application to both paper and metal. Loctite alone has several hundred types of cyanoacryate glues, which are mostly the same product, optimized for different applications such as for porous materials, etc.
Why don't you use the actual stuff sold by speaker repairers? You can order some from here (it's in Australia though) .
http://www.speakerbits.com/devdefault.aspx
http://www.speakerbits.com/devdefault.aspx
So many types of glues .........
I forgot to mention that several years ago , we had bought some replacement cones from Allison for one of their speakers. They also sent some shims for centering the coil and the glue. The glue was a PVA based glue like the type used for gluing wood. Its milky white in colour and takes time to set.
Here it is available in two versions. Standard and fast setting. The fast setting one is coloured pale yellow.
I've used the local variety (PVA glue) for fixing some speakers and it has worked fine. Note that this was used "only" to glue the spider to the chassis and the foam surround to the frame edge and no where else.
You can't use rubber based glue to attach a foam surround. The surround material will expand .
Super glue and others like it might turn out to be a disaster for a DIY job as they set very fast and there is no margin for error.
DIY repair is done slowly and you need a slow setting glue .
Think it over very well before buying the glue and go over every step you are going to take. If you are an expert and very fast at doing such repairs, a fast setting glue should be OK. I would however never use a fast setting glue. Quick setting ( 20 to 30 minutes ) maybe , but nothing that sets faster. But then I've done this many times before.
Have fun.
cheers.
I forgot to mention that several years ago , we had bought some replacement cones from Allison for one of their speakers. They also sent some shims for centering the coil and the glue. The glue was a PVA based glue like the type used for gluing wood. Its milky white in colour and takes time to set.
Here it is available in two versions. Standard and fast setting. The fast setting one is coloured pale yellow.
I've used the local variety (PVA glue) for fixing some speakers and it has worked fine. Note that this was used "only" to glue the spider to the chassis and the foam surround to the frame edge and no where else.
You can't use rubber based glue to attach a foam surround. The surround material will expand .
Super glue and others like it might turn out to be a disaster for a DIY job as they set very fast and there is no margin for error.
DIY repair is done slowly and you need a slow setting glue .
Think it over very well before buying the glue and go over every step you are going to take. If you are an expert and very fast at doing such repairs, a fast setting glue should be OK. I would however never use a fast setting glue. Quick setting ( 20 to 30 minutes ) maybe , but nothing that sets faster. But then I've done this many times before.
Have fun.
cheers.
hi guys, i've superglued the spider to the basket, it seems to be working fine. but the real test will be when i connect it to the plate amp (that i still have to buy). there isnt any distortion or rattle. the bond seems to be very strong but i do agree that after long periods of use i do think it might crack because the glue is not flexible at all.
my first choice would be the 'goop' but i cant get hold of any that in the UK. but there must be alternatives to that brand or a generic name for that kind of application. but i'll try looking for putty cement.
thanx guys!
my first choice would be the 'goop' but i cant get hold of any that in the UK. but there must be alternatives to that brand or a generic name for that kind of application. but i'll try looking for putty cement.
thanx guys!
In sort of this same vein...
Last year I helped a friend set up a Tempest in a 340 litre enclosure (Adire's big/low design) - big ol' sonotube.
Well, he killed the first one. Took him over six months tho... Amp is a Pflame Linear 400...
So, he-man that he is, he ordered another driver.
He plugged it in, screwed it in, and after a short period of modest testing (nowhere near the SPL as with the initial one...), it quit. Seems the voice coil decided that it hated the rest of the driver.
Any ideas on what to do?
Last year I helped a friend set up a Tempest in a 340 litre enclosure (Adire's big/low design) - big ol' sonotube.
Well, he killed the first one. Took him over six months tho... Amp is a Pflame Linear 400...
So, he-man that he is, he ordered another driver.
He plugged it in, screwed it in, and after a short period of modest testing (nowhere near the SPL as with the initial one...), it quit. Seems the voice coil decided that it hated the rest of the driver.
Any ideas on what to do?
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