What do you use to seal subwoofer enclosures? - diyAudio
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Old 15th December 2004, 08:08 AM   #1
simon5 is offline simon5  Canada
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Default What do you use to seal subwoofer enclosures?

Hi, I know it's a very stupid newbie question, but I need to ask it!

I want to know what do you use to seal your subwoofer enclosures.

I will build a 142.5 liters "Adire Audio Shiva" vented box this Christmas, and I was planning on using good wood glue and a bunch of 1.5 inches screws to tight together 3/4 inch plywood panels. I will drill a smaller hole before putting each screw.

Is that ok? Or the screws will weaken the enclosure? I don't want the plys separating like the Tempest guy in the other thread!!!
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Old 15th December 2004, 01:13 PM   #2
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Use polyurethane base construction adhesive (in a caulking gun) or a polyurethane base wood glue (like Gorilla); they expand as they cure to fill all gaps. Get a countersink pilot bit for the holes, and use 1 5/8" drywall screws every six inches. Be careful with polyurethane adhesives, they ooze a lot. Ply separation usually occurs with cheap grade plywood that has insufficient plies and with failure to pre-drill pilot holes. With 3/4 inch plywood make sure there are no less than 7 plies.
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Old 15th December 2004, 01:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Be careful with polyurethane adhesives, they ooze a lot.
Have a sharp chisel handy to remove excess glue that oozes on to the exterior of the enclosure. Once it's dry it comes off easily with a chisel.
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Old 15th December 2004, 07:45 PM   #4
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Default Sounds fine to me.

I use ordinary Elmer's carpenter's wood glue, which though it does not expand as the others mentioned, is plenty strong enough. The screws will strengthen the enclosure, not weaken it, and also can hold the panels together as the glue dries, possibly negating the need for a bunch of bar clamps. I cover all internal seams heavily with acrylic latex caulking, sometimes with silicone, sometimes without, whichever is on sale. There are lots of good ways to build and seal a box! You won't have a problem with the plywood if you predrill and countersink the holes and get good quality plywood to begin with.


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Old 15th December 2004, 08:51 PM   #5
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Not sure if the reference to the "Tempest guy in the other thread" was directed at me, but if it was, the actual enclosure was not what was seperating (the plys were solid), I had glued (and only glued) an extra peice of wood framing around the enclosure to give it a framed look and that was what was seperating. The actual enclosure was mighty solid, and I used only wood glue and lots of screws. When I decided to ditch the vented enclosure and go sealed, I actually attempted to break the vented enclosure into peices by throwing if off of my second story fire escape (DO NOT TRY AT HOME). The box was barely injured by the fall, save the corner where it hit that was a little dented. Suffice it to say I needed to bring out the sawz-all to actually do the demolition.
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Old 15th December 2004, 08:54 PM   #6
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Yes. If your cuts are clean and straight wood glue (Elmer's, Titebond) is much easier to work with and absolutely strong. Stronger than the wood itself. I like to avoid screws if possible because it's a pain trying to cover them up unless you're using veneer. Careful with silicon based sealant. The fumes from it have been known to cause problems with drivers unless it has cured for several days.
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Old 15th December 2004, 09:58 PM   #7
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GE siliconeII for joints and sealing. I didnt know how strong this stuff really was....until i tried to take the baffle off one day. Just make sure it cures for a while so as not to damage youre drivers. Cheap stuff too.
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Old 15th December 2004, 10:08 PM   #8
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Default Silicone.

Tim,

I didn't mean silicone based sealant, rather acrylic latex with silicone, whole different animal. While it may be just as well to avoid any silicone whatsoever, I've found the acrylic latex with silicone to have no fumes by comparison (having used pure silicone in the past on fish tanks and other stuff). Still, I rarely get any caulk with silicone, because it's more expensive and sticky.

I do caulking before staining/painting, so the cabinets are always going to sit for several days without drivers anway, well past the normal cure time of silicone (24 hours). I know many DIYers like to put their drivers in the cabinets and listen before there is any paint or veneer or finish of any kind. If I did that they would never get finished...

Ditto on the strength of wood glue. I've had boxes in the past that simply could not be taken/broken apart without a saw or extreme physical abuse.


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Old 15th December 2004, 10:15 PM   #9
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I know many DIYers like to put their drivers in the cabinets and listen before there is any paint or veneer or finish of any kind.
A common malady.
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Old 17th December 2004, 01:46 AM   #10
simon5 is offline simon5  Canada
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Thanks everyone for the answers!

Sorry, what's countersinking the holes?

I know about pre-drilling but countersinking?

Thanks again!
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