8" Sonosub help needed
Hello Guys,
I'am a newbie into speaker building. Just got myself a LSK M5 speaker coupled to a Rotel Amp. Now i'am interested in building a subwoofer which is not too big, but looks awesome. I'm looking something in the order of an 8 inch sonosub. Can I use the recommended speaker box specs for a sonosub. What do you guys think of this. I also need opinions on good drivers. what do you reckon of the dayton 8 inch drivers ? are they good or are they something out there which is better. Price range for the setup, around 500 USD including a sub amp.
Many thanks
Newbie Julian
Hello Guys,
I'am a newbie into speaker building. Just got myself a LSK M5 speaker coupled to a Rotel Amp. Now i'am interested in building a subwoofer which is not too big, but looks awesome. I'm looking something in the order of an 8 inch sonosub. Can I use the recommended speaker box specs for a sonosub. What do you guys think of this. I also need opinions on good drivers. what do you reckon of the dayton 8 inch drivers ? are they good or are they something out there which is better. Price range for the setup, around 500 USD including a sub amp.
Many thanks
Newbie Julian
I don't know if sort of thing interests you but I built one of these a while back. I think any 8" with a similar Fs would work.
http://www.timn8er.com/av8_sonosub.htm
Hmmm...looks like I need to update some of my links. You can go to Adire's website if you're looking for specs.
http://www.timn8er.com/av8_sonosub.htm
Hmmm...looks like I need to update some of my links. You can go to Adire's website if you're looking for specs.
Re: 8" Sonosub help needed
Hi Julian,
If an 8" sonotube is what your looking to build, an 8"driver may be a tight fit. You need 1-2" min around driver for mounting.
6.5-7" driver with 8" sonotube
8" driver with a 10-12" sonotube
Smaller drivers less bass, no deep bass. What about venting or are you ok with a higher F3?
Volume is area x height?
julianboudville said:
Hi Julian,
If an 8" sonotube is what your looking to build, an 8"driver may be a tight fit. You need 1-2" min around driver for mounting.
6.5-7" driver with 8" sonotube
8" driver with a 10-12" sonotube
Smaller drivers less bass, no deep bass. What about venting or are you ok with a higher F3?
Volume is area x height?
Hi mrlots2do
I'am ok with venting, but seal box would be nice. I would prefer something with a flat response. If a vented design does this then its no probs. The reason i want a sonosub is that i may be able to build two and use them as speaker stand for my shelves speakers.
and yeah as you have pointed out. An 8inch driver in a 10 - 12 inch tube is what i'm thinking of.
I'am confuse in speaker selection ?? which drivers should i used.
Criterias are: downward firing, room frequency response to about 25 - 30 hz, biggest room size about 3m - 6m back of the room opened.
Any suggestion would be helpful
Many Thanks
Confused, Poor Uni Student who is on a budget.
I'am ok with venting, but seal box would be nice. I would prefer something with a flat response. If a vented design does this then its no probs. The reason i want a sonosub is that i may be able to build two and use them as speaker stand for my shelves speakers.
and yeah as you have pointed out. An 8inch driver in a 10 - 12 inch tube is what i'm thinking of.
I'am confuse in speaker selection ?? which drivers should i used.
Criterias are: downward firing, room frequency response to about 25 - 30 hz, biggest room size about 3m - 6m back of the room opened.
Any suggestion would be helpful
Many Thanks
Confused, Poor Uni Student who is on a budget.
The Dayton DVC's #295-480 are probably what you want. Check PE's driverjulianboudville said:
wizard. Venting is usually beside down firing drivers or on opposite end cap. Sinse you don't have much room how about an exteral slot port down the rear outside wall. You could use a piece of sonotube (already at the right curve) and two end rails to build it out.
You'll need a plate amp, pick one. I bought the 300-794, made a sheet metal box and spray painted it flat black. It sits on the floor beside my subwoofer, never gets "warm". http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&SO=2&&DID=7&CATID=43&ObjectGroup_ID=505
BTW.... my subwoofer is 20" x 54" (8.5 cu ft) tuned to 17hz.
have you throught about the 8 inch peerless XLS Available from wes components.com.au
http://www.d-s-t.com.au/Ventura/Peerless.htm
http://www.d-s-t.com.au/Data/Peerless/830491.pdf
you can get a plate amp locally the jaycar are the same as the PE amps . .
The problem will be getting it to Oz . I have priced some gear from PE
the shipping was alot more than item because it is weight based .
the cheapest price for shipping the driver .Using the US postage web site is $27 US it will take 6-8 weeks to arrive
http://www.d-s-t.com.au/Ventura/Peerless.htm
http://www.d-s-t.com.au/Data/Peerless/830491.pdf
you can get a plate amp locally the jaycar are the same as the PE amps . .
The problem will be getting it to Oz . I have priced some gear from PE
the shipping was alot more than item because it is weight based .
the cheapest price for shipping the driver .Using the US postage web site is $27 US it will take 6-8 weeks to arrive
Julian,
Firstly I'd suggest consider drivers that are available locally. Peerless and Vifa you can get here and are good value. You can also get Seas here. Sonotube is US, in Australia it's called Formatube, and it's quite expensive. Not worth it IMO. Formatube is suitable for big subs that would otherwise be ridiculously heavy due to their size. If you want small and cheap then it's not the way to go. Formatube costs about $34/m + $40 freight.
For a good value small sub in Australia, here's my suggestion:
Peerless XLS either 10" or 12" in a small sealed box with a plate amp. You can get the 10" for $190 and the 12" for $220. You can get a 200w plate amp from Wes Components for $250. Add $20 for MDF and you have most of what you need for a good sub for $490 AUD.
Other possible drivers:
* ~$100 - Peerless 10" CSX - a nice sounding driver with a good low distortion motor but not much output as a sub; unfortunately it needs a fairly large box so it doesn't really meet your criteria
* ~$100 - Peerless 8" XLS - I haven't heard this driver but I expect it would be good, although you can't expect much output from an 8" driver
Both are cheaper but I'd say its worth spending just a bit more to get a driver that is a genuine sub driver with more oooommmpph!
Please note: a lot of what other DIYers are doing might not be a good idea here in Oz. With US drivers there is a long wait and additional expense of shipping. If anything goes wrong it's a long way back. I'm not against overseas drivers (I bought my subs from the US), but you want a good reason for this. If you buy via a local supplier, they have purchased in bulk and the shipping would have been more economical. For expensive drivers you may get a worthwihle advantage buying overseas depending on the exchange rate etc.
In a nutshell: for a good value small sub in Australia it's very hard to beat the XLS.
Firstly I'd suggest consider drivers that are available locally. Peerless and Vifa you can get here and are good value. You can also get Seas here. Sonotube is US, in Australia it's called Formatube, and it's quite expensive. Not worth it IMO. Formatube is suitable for big subs that would otherwise be ridiculously heavy due to their size. If you want small and cheap then it's not the way to go. Formatube costs about $34/m + $40 freight.
For a good value small sub in Australia, here's my suggestion:
Peerless XLS either 10" or 12" in a small sealed box with a plate amp. You can get the 10" for $190 and the 12" for $220. You can get a 200w plate amp from Wes Components for $250. Add $20 for MDF and you have most of what you need for a good sub for $490 AUD.
Other possible drivers:
* ~$100 - Peerless 10" CSX - a nice sounding driver with a good low distortion motor but not much output as a sub; unfortunately it needs a fairly large box so it doesn't really meet your criteria
* ~$100 - Peerless 8" XLS - I haven't heard this driver but I expect it would be good, although you can't expect much output from an 8" driver
Both are cheaper but I'd say its worth spending just a bit more to get a driver that is a genuine sub driver with more oooommmpph!
Please note: a lot of what other DIYers are doing might not be a good idea here in Oz. With US drivers there is a long wait and additional expense of shipping. If anything goes wrong it's a long way back. I'm not against overseas drivers (I bought my subs from the US), but you want a good reason for this. If you buy via a local supplier, they have purchased in bulk and the shipping would have been more economical. For expensive drivers you may get a worthwihle advantage buying overseas depending on the exchange rate etc.
In a nutshell: for a good value small sub in Australia it's very hard to beat the XLS.
Thanks mate 
Good suggestions, Might consider these. how about the loud speaker kit subs ? what do you think. for abit more extra i can get the S150. Would a setup with a XLS sub and a plate amp will sound better then the loud speaker kit subwoofer ??. Keeping in mind we are comparing a 10 inch peerless sub with the LSK sub S150 version. Its a 10 incher too. I have heard the S150 and its pretty good for the price and it suits nicely with my M5 bookshelves.
Thanks
Julian
S150
Good suggestions, Might consider these. how about the loud speaker kit subs ? what do you think. for abit more extra i can get the S150. Would a setup with a XLS sub and a plate amp will sound better then the loud speaker kit subwoofer ??. Keeping in mind we are comparing a 10 inch peerless sub with the LSK sub S150 version. Its a 10 incher too. I have heard the S150 and its pretty good for the price and it suits nicely with my M5 bookshelves.
Thanks
Julian
S150
here is an example of a XLS 10 in a small box
http://www.geocities.com/adrian_mack/homepage.html
the LSK kit has a bottom end of 25hz . but the peerless is 22hz
http://www.geocities.com/adrian_mack/homepage.html
the LSK kit has a bottom end of 25hz . but the peerless is 22hz
The LSK sub is a 12" el cheapo driver in a vented alignment vs a far superior driver in a sealed box. For about the same amount you can get the 12" XLS which is a high end driver. Yes the LSK sub is quite good, I have heard it, but the option I'm suggesting is very similar to one of their discontinued kits which retailed at $1000, twice the cost of that kit. I have no idea why anyone in their right mind (who is diy aware) would choose the LSK kit over the XLS, especially when it isn't cheaper!
Please note: I think the LSK kits in general are good value, but since subs are so easy to pull off as a diy project, it seems its hard to offer a good diy kit and make any money unless you have something special to offer with it that isn't available to diyers (like Rhythmik audio's servo kit).
I would say the output and extension of those subs would be similar. The XLS probably has twice the excursion but the LSK is a vented box. The difference would be the XLS would have lower distortion and is a much more robust driver. Also a sealed box would be more articulate.
When the LSK had a kit with the XLS is was offered in a sealed and passive radiator version. I heard the passive radiator version next to the S150 and the XLS blew the other sub away. It was much louder, had much more authority, no comparison really. You would lose some of that output in a sealed box.
If you want a vented box then you might look at the Shiva, but then you are looking at spending a bit more and probably a bit more power for the amp. It doesn't fit your criteria of small and cheap.
The XLS 12" isn't much bigger than the 10". If you can live with formatube then why not just go with a 1 cu ft sealed box with the XLS 12"?
Please note: I think the LSK kits in general are good value, but since subs are so easy to pull off as a diy project, it seems its hard to offer a good diy kit and make any money unless you have something special to offer with it that isn't available to diyers (like Rhythmik audio's servo kit).
I would say the output and extension of those subs would be similar. The XLS probably has twice the excursion but the LSK is a vented box. The difference would be the XLS would have lower distortion and is a much more robust driver. Also a sealed box would be more articulate.
When the LSK had a kit with the XLS is was offered in a sealed and passive radiator version. I heard the passive radiator version next to the S150 and the XLS blew the other sub away. It was much louder, had much more authority, no comparison really. You would lose some of that output in a sealed box.
If you want a vented box then you might look at the Shiva, but then you are looking at spending a bit more and probably a bit more power for the amp. It doesn't fit your criteria of small and cheap.
The XLS 12" isn't much bigger than the 10". If you can live with formatube then why not just go with a 1 cu ft sealed box with the XLS 12"?
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