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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Planet Earth
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Hi folks,
As (probably) so many others, I have a spouse and a home theatre setup (with the compromises that may bring! )To achieve high Spouse Acceptance Factor, I am considering to make a sub that will fit under my sofa. Befind the front frame, there's about 20 - 25 cm free height. Would it be possible to make a wide, but fairly flat anclosure, and then mount the woofers of this sub horisontally? Would they sink in, so the membrane movement would be asymmetrically limited (pardon my language, but occasionally I lack the right words.) Alternatively, the drivers would be placed in a 25 cm deep cabinet behind the sofa. The drivers would then be mounted the usual way, but be fairly close to the rear lining of the sofa. If vented, the ports could go in either direction. I have a DIY amp with 2 x 80W / 8ohm channels to use. It's made over-kill for the rating as it's designed to be stable at continuous full power when bridged. I also consider using two 8 ohm drivers in parallel. Any comments appreciated. Thanks - Jennice
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I get paid to break stuff. My g/f gets paid to play with children. Life is good.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Planet Earth
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Oh.. I forgot:
Currently I have a pair of elderly B&W 630 speakers (2.5 way), and a room size of approx. 30-35 m2. I'm quite happy with the sound, but It lacks the deepest rumble (with a punch) during movies. Obviously, I'm looking for something with more capability than the main speakers which handle the bass at the moment. Thanks- Jennice
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I get paid to break stuff. My g/f gets paid to play with children. Life is good.
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#3 |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
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Because of the non-directional frequencies and long wavelengths involved you can build a sub in pretty much any shape and put it anywhere you wish.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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It also might be worth reading this: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...338#post418338
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"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SouthEast
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Whether a sub driver can be mounted firing up (or down) or not is dependent on the construction of that particular driver. Some have suspensions that cope well with such mountings, and some do not.
What driver do you have in mind? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Planet Earth
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As drivers I was considering some SLS 10 or SLS12 from Peerless.
From what I could see, these are 8 ohm drivers. To make the best use ofg the amplification I have available, I was thinking of using two drivers in parallel, andusing a 80 W/ 8 ohm channel to get about 160W to them. If needs be, I have 2 of these channels, so that I could have 4 woofers, iach in sets of 2 parallelled, giving 2 x 160W for the subs. Would that make sense? MartinQ: Is your plan to get the physical rumble by using it as the sofa frame, or do these ducts function as some sort of bass reflex ports? Jennice
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I get paid to break stuff. My g/f gets paid to play with children. Life is good.
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Jennice, most 10" drivers can be mounted face up/down it is the larger drivers 12" and above that be trouble. in general I would say that u can mount most 6 or 8" drivers anyway u want, 15" and above should not be mounted face up /down and as far as 10-12" drivers go it makes best sense to email the manufacturer. I used 12" woofers from Audio Concepts face down with no trouble but I got a wirtten letter from Mike Dzurko before I did that. It is not guarantee but most guys like Mike are so DIY friendly that they will sincerly let you know what their drivers can do or not do.
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