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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sweet lake city
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Sloped baffles are for phase and time alignment of two (or more) units. With subwoofers you can do the time alignment in the sub amp and often also in a HT amp. Most sub amps can adjust the phase with a pot from 0 to 180 degrees. If you need your sub to go relatively high frontfiring can be a better option as some lower mid will be audible. If you can stay low (say below 70-80Hz) then there is no reason not to go downfiring. As you mention a thor sub I assume that you keep the crossover low.
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better be indoubt untill you're sure |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: cosmological consciousness
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Would you really want to do that in a ideal world? i would rather not have the need for any crossovers as we all agree they mar the sound even if there an important part of the design for many reasons, I dont know if your remember but Naim had a 15 in driver with an isolated mid and treble units on top, each one was staggered back from each other.
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
The staggering you refer to is for time alignment purposes. The bottom line is that some sub drivers function reasonably well in a down firing alignment. Adire Audio has some calculations to help determine whether a specific driver is suited for downfiring, however, downfiring affects any driver in a negative way. It reduces useable Xmax and affects the impulse response both of which are a simple matter of physics and the effect of gravity. Downfire if you have to and it might be OK for HT, but for music I'd say no don't.
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#14 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Montreal
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Hi again,
I'm back, and thank-you everyone for the enlightened discussion. The consensus seems to be: Do it if you must, and I must. Quote:
I'll be Xing over at approx. 80Hz. Not that I want to seem to be shunning your advice, I will be setting up the subs as down-firing - 6% is not that far off, and the subs are already bought. An important consideration has to be room size, placement and esthetics, and in my case down-firing is the best compromise. I will be making a removable base/stand so if it turns out badly I'll be able to revert to front-firing, which brings me to my next question: Quote:
What should the driver/floor clearance be? Is their and optimum figure? Or more importantly, what is an "RTA" and where do I get it? By the way, the boxes are completed. I just have to cover them with plastic laminate - black mat, then I'll be making an active Xover which appeared in Speaker Builder. Thanks all again, fred p.
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#15 |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
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RTA is a Real Time Analyzer; you can download a program for one from the Allen Heath site; alternately just use a test tone CD and sound level meter to check response of the speaker and make the legs what ever length they need to be for best results, usually about four to six inches.
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