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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: 8800 ft above sea level
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Since we can't have everything when it comes to T/S params, what compromises work the best or hurt the least? For example, which of these would you chose? (Assuming all are about the same $) All are 15”.
Qts Fs SPL Xmax driver 1 1.446 40 92 4.05 driver 2 .88 25.6 87.3 14 driver 3 .7 29 92 9.4 driver 4 .67 26.7 90 6 I want accurate music reproduction first, HT second. Not worrying about impressing (or bothering) the neighbors - nearest is about a quarter mile ![]() I’m thinking of possibly putting these in an H-frame, approx. 24”x36”. Could I set it on the long side and put the TV on top? Well, I know I COULD, but is it a good idea? If I do a W frame is there a simple way to calculate the spacing of the middle section? Sorry, No hablo calculus.
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"Whenever you find you are on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect." Mark Twain |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Probably driver 2. Relatively low Fs, the highest Xmax, decent sensitivity.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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If you brace the frame well enough, you can stack anything on top of it.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: 8800 ft above sea level
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Thanks for the opinion. Sorry the formatting got messed up on the table, but I guess you figured it out. I would really like to use #1, it;s a cool looking alunimum cone, but that high Fs bothers me some, not sure if it would give me the opening notes of also sprach zarathrustra - I want to feel it.
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"Whenever you find you are on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect." Mark Twain |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: boston
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I agree with number two.
Scale this up to a 15" driver.
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My "cult-like" following is accepting applications. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: 8800 ft above sea level
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Thanks, Tom. I've got that gif saved somewhere. WHen I said middle section, I was thinking of a design I saw where the drivers were facing each other. Wonder where I saved that?
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"Whenever you find you are on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect." Mark Twain |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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I gotta go with the croud and vote for door # 2 due to the Fs and Xmax. Loosey goosey (quite high Qts) at 40hz seems like a problem I wouldn't want to have to design around for driver #1, at least not for a sub.
Regarding cavity width for a W baffle, I had the same question and couldn't find a hard answer. The height and depth dimensions can result in cavity resonances, but they're well above a sub's frequency. You just don't want it too narrow to create air flow noise, so the narrowest possible with the push/pull alignment leaving reasonable clearance if the pole is vented should be fine.
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Everyone has a photographic memory. It's just that most are out of film. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: 8800 ft above sea level
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How about if I made all three chambers the same size? Then I could try facing the drivers either way.
#2 is a Volfenhag - anyone ever heard of/used one? It's an auto sub, but try to find a "real" home audio sub with good OB specs for a reasonable price - $50-60 each
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"Whenever you find you are on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect." Mark Twain |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Equal chambers will result in a larger than necessary enclosure. With cheap drivers like those, the distortion reduction of push/pull alignement will be even more important.
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Everyone has a photographic memory. It's just that most are out of film. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: boston
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Quote:
a response from Roscoe Primrose to the question of why is it better to have them oppose each other rather than face each other.... Second order distortion cancellation. Remember, in a W baffle the drivers are moving in opposite directions, so one cone is moving towards it's magnet structure wile the other is moving away... Peace
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