Hi all,
I wondered if any one could suggest a driver to use for making a subwoofer to plug into my sharp mini hifi. It has to be realitivly cheap and i will model it in WinISD. I was thinking of using an 8" driver in a vented enclouser or maybye 2 8" Dayton DVC's in isobarik in 4th order bandpass configuration. Any help apreciated
Greg.
I wondered if any one could suggest a driver to use for making a subwoofer to plug into my sharp mini hifi. It has to be realitivly cheap and i will model it in WinISD. I was thinking of using an 8" driver in a vented enclouser or maybye 2 8" Dayton DVC's in isobarik in 4th order bandpass configuration. Any help apreciated
Greg.
How 'mini' is this mini-hifi? You're only getting to about 80Hz on the high side of the bandpass, so you're system will need solid extension down to 80Hz.
Bandpass boxes are notoriously tough to tune as well. Its highly unlikely that you will get good results if you build exactly what the modeling program tells you.
Bandpass boxes are notoriously tough to tune as well. Its highly unlikely that you will get good results if you build exactly what the modeling program tells you.
Re: Peerless 8"
Well if cheaps your game, then I suggest a Sonotube. Go to home depot look in the concrete/roof section by the lumber (usually), and look for these cardboard cylinders. They usually have 8" and 12". Buy the 12" one (usually ~$8), and then go and find the "smaller" sheets of plywood/mdf (usually 2'x4' sheets), and sometimes they have 12" MDF circles for like $5.
Anyways the whole point here is that you can pretty much piece these all together, and have a cheap effective sub. And don't freak out that the cardboard looks thin. If you brace it...especially a MDF ring in the middle...it is very very sturdy, as a cylinder spreads the stress over the entire circle. You will be amazed!
greg_mcquaid said:
Well if cheaps your game, then I suggest a Sonotube. Go to home depot look in the concrete/roof section by the lumber (usually), and look for these cardboard cylinders. They usually have 8" and 12". Buy the 12" one (usually ~$8), and then go and find the "smaller" sheets of plywood/mdf (usually 2'x4' sheets), and sometimes they have 12" MDF circles for like $5.
Anyways the whole point here is that you can pretty much piece these all together, and have a cheap effective sub. And don't freak out that the cardboard looks thin. If you brace it...especially a MDF ring in the middle...it is very very sturdy, as a cylinder spreads the stress over the entire circle. You will be amazed!
I don't think they have Home Depot In The U.K...but I'm sure you can find these at concrete centers
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Sonotube
So how do u no where to plave all of the stuff inside the tube and how do u calculate the sizes needed?
Are there any sonotube projects on the internet that i can look at or has any one made one here? And finally will it give me a nice low bass extension. One other thing does it matter what driver u use in a sonotube as i will be looking into using that peerless one u recommended.
Greg.
So how do u no where to plave all of the stuff inside the tube and how do u calculate the sizes needed?
Are there any sonotube projects on the internet that i can look at or has any one made one here? And finally will it give me a nice low bass extension. One other thing does it matter what driver u use in a sonotube as i will be looking into using that peerless one u recommended.
Greg.
Sorry I assumed since the author mentioned Dayton drivers, he lived at least in North America. Shipping may be a pain for you!
There are probably a 1000 sonotube projects on the net, just do some searches at forums and yahoo/google. Try avsforum.com.
As far as volume use a cylinder volume equation.
pi * radius-squared * length
Thats should be in cubic inches then divide by 1728 for cubic feet,then convert that to Liters if needed.
The bass response will be <mostly> determined by the volume, shape doesn't matter as much. The sonotubes they sell at Home Depot are 12" x 4', so they have some descent volume to them. I usually use a hand held scroll saw to cut them....cuts like butter.
Yes try not to use Subwoofers that covert electrons into water molecules, as the water may damage the cardboard. Most any should work that I can think of.
There are probably a 1000 sonotube projects on the net, just do some searches at forums and yahoo/google. Try avsforum.com.
As far as volume use a cylinder volume equation.
pi * radius-squared * length
Thats should be in cubic inches then divide by 1728 for cubic feet,then convert that to Liters if needed.
The bass response will be <mostly> determined by the volume, shape doesn't matter as much. The sonotubes they sell at Home Depot are 12" x 4', so they have some descent volume to them. I usually use a hand held scroll saw to cut them....cuts like butter.
Yes try not to use Subwoofers that covert electrons into water molecules, as the water may damage the cardboard. Most any should work that I can think of.
Cheap drivers in the UK are a problem, compared to the
sort of prices Dayton stuff costs from Parts Express.
The AP210G6 (UZO9K) 8" from Maplin is good value and
doesn't need much power, but excursion is not stunning.
More difficult is the amplifer to a degree, the output
from the system appears to be prefiltered allowing
the use of any amplifier.
Presumably any stereo amplifier - in this case buy two
drive units and go isobaric or parrallel. If you do buy
a plate amp a single better unit may be better.
http://www.bkelec.com/Diy/bsb50.htm
http://www.bkelec.com/Diy/BSB10100.htm
I'd avoid bandpass designs for this application,
unless you really know what you are doing.
sreten.
sort of prices Dayton stuff costs from Parts Express.
The AP210G6 (UZO9K) 8" from Maplin is good value and
doesn't need much power, but excursion is not stunning.
More difficult is the amplifer to a degree, the output
from the system appears to be prefiltered allowing
the use of any amplifier.
Presumably any stereo amplifier - in this case buy two
drive units and go isobaric or parrallel. If you do buy
a plate amp a single better unit may be better.
http://www.bkelec.com/Diy/bsb50.htm
http://www.bkelec.com/Diy/BSB10100.htm
I'd avoid bandpass designs for this application,
unless you really know what you are doing.
sreten.- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.