Hello all. New to the forum. New to all aspects of diy speaker anything. I have had my Marantz 2270 since I was 16 and never wanted for more. I want more! I would like to do a sub build but after about 2 weeks of intense reading I know one thing, I don't know what the hell to do.
Looking at the Dayton RSS390HF-4 with a 500 watt plate amp. It will be going into a 18x14 room, subfloor, plaster walls. Mostly for music about 80/20. Would like to do a ported box, I think. Any help and I would be greatfull.
Fresh One!!
MF
Looking at the Dayton RSS390HF-4 with a 500 watt plate amp. It will be going into a 18x14 room, subfloor, plaster walls. Mostly for music about 80/20. Would like to do a ported box, I think. Any help and I would be greatfull.
Fresh One!!
MF
I would love to play with sub programs but no computer. Never had a need for one outside of work I guess. I have played with the online versions but they all seem to say something different. A sealed sub would be fine as well. It can be as big as it needs to be no restraints there. I have a woodworking backgroud and all tools that may be required.
Thanks
MF
Thanks
MF
OK, I'll try!
The cabinet sure looks big enough, but I'm getting a crick in my neck trying to read the driver specifications!
EDIT: It's alright, I've looked them up on Parts Express! May get my David Weems book and calculator out!
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Yea sorry about that. I tried loading the image several times in all differant orientations, always came out the same way in the preview. I'm not very Internet savvy! I can build or fix just about anything if I can touch it or draw it. This is the first forum I have ever posted in and I'm 50. Up until a couple years ago I was either at work or on the water.
Thanks very much for the feedback.
MF
Thanks very much for the feedback.
MF
I'm new to this posting lark myself, and thank you for your feedback!
I'm hoping the cabinet designer buffs might step in now.
Those dimensions & port look fine to me. I suggest you make it slightly oversize, to allow enough volume for some internal bracing - but don't sweat about getting it exact.
You can tweak the response after it is built by changing the port's length, and by trying the sub in different room positions. Room placement makes more difference than getting the box size 'perfect'.
People usually recommend ply because it is a lot stiffer than MDF (for the same weight). For a sub, a rigid box = good. Some people go to crazy extremes
Baltic Birch is the default 'good' ply, but if you can source an equivalent (e.g. if you can get marine ply at mate's rates), go for it. If weight doesn't matter, you can just use more (thicker) MDF, or whatever else is cheap & easy.
You can tweak the response after it is built by changing the port's length, and by trying the sub in different room positions. Room placement makes more difference than getting the box size 'perfect'.
People usually recommend ply because it is a lot stiffer than MDF (for the same weight). For a sub, a rigid box = good. Some people go to crazy extremes
Baltic Birch is the default 'good' ply, but if you can source an equivalent (e.g. if you can get marine ply at mate's rates), go for it. If weight doesn't matter, you can just use more (thicker) MDF, or whatever else is cheap & easy.
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