Hello!
After spending around a week of looking at subs for my truck build i've decided the Dayton reference HO's are best bang for buck. I've previously used a single SPL type sub by dark audio industries. I figured the pair of Daytons would give awesome SQ and hopefully moderate spl.
After 5 hours on the web searching for box designs, I have zero clue what to build. I wanted to go with a pair of 10's, but they seem to be an absolute pain. So I've moved on to the 12's. I don't know if they do best in sealed or ported because I've found mixed reports. I will be buying a prebuilt since my truck is a regular cab and requires a wedge box. I've found a box by ground shaker and it looks promising. I can add material to make the box smaller if its too big, I just don't know WHAT these HO's perform best in.
They will be powered by a Skar RP 2000 @ 2ohms.
Thank you for any and all help on this matter, Pics when project is done!
After spending around a week of looking at subs for my truck build i've decided the Dayton reference HO's are best bang for buck. I've previously used a single SPL type sub by dark audio industries. I figured the pair of Daytons would give awesome SQ and hopefully moderate spl.
After 5 hours on the web searching for box designs, I have zero clue what to build. I wanted to go with a pair of 10's, but they seem to be an absolute pain. So I've moved on to the 12's. I don't know if they do best in sealed or ported because I've found mixed reports. I will be buying a prebuilt since my truck is a regular cab and requires a wedge box. I've found a box by ground shaker and it looks promising. I can add material to make the box smaller if its too big, I just don't know WHAT these HO's perform best in.
They will be powered by a Skar RP 2000 @ 2ohms.
Thank you for any and all help on this matter, Pics when project is done!
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No one can really help unless you specifically state which box they are going in(size/volume,tuning if ported etc)
Why are the 10's a pain? A small ported box(probably around .75-1cuft each with tuning in the 30s would be pretty close)
Sealed they will be underdamped as they have a fairly small Vas which is fine for a car, probably just not overly efficient. If you're using web reviews to pick a sub design, its a good way to fail. 95% of people building sub enclosures have little to no idea what they are doing.
Why are the 10's a pain? A small ported box(probably around .75-1cuft each with tuning in the 30s would be pretty close)
Sealed they will be underdamped as they have a fairly small Vas which is fine for a car, probably just not overly efficient. If you're using web reviews to pick a sub design, its a good way to fail. 95% of people building sub enclosures have little to no idea what they are doing.
I don't know what I should put them in. I don't know what the 10s or 12s would excell best in. Ported? Sealed? I wanted to go with 10s for space but I don't know or understand the output of these subs. Should I go with 12's? Several old posts from 2011 say the 10s are tricky to "Get right"
I've always only had Ebay SPL subs and MTX. I just figured since the dayton BR1 kit i put together sounds good, so would their subs. I always tried to buy old made in USA car audio, thinking that was the best.
This is going in a regular cab pickup, going to use a wedge box. Prefab if it suggested I go sealed. I'll make my own for ported.
I can't figure out how to post. I made an account 4 days ago. Don't know how to finish registration, no email got sent.
Q Power Dual 12" Sealed Heavy Duty Truck Subwoofer Box Enclosure | HD212-TRUCK 813177024058 | eBay
This is the box I was looking at.
That is pretty well perfect for the HO 12's. Slightly low q alignment will be great for SQ. An amp around 1kw will make plenty of noise as well.
Good to hear. I'm going to pick up a skar RP 2000. Think it would be too strong? How would i send the subs LESS power?
Awesome, thank you. Going to order the subs and sub box. Going to look at amps, something a little less "robust" Thank you for all your help!
PS If i get the non DVC versions, i can save some $$$ and wire them for 2ohms and that amp would be around 1400w. Is there any performance reason to use the DVC's over the SVCs? Is it just wiring options? Do DVC's have increased clarity? Are they more robust? Are they "louder"
Oh and having an amp a bit bigger than needed is no big deal. Remember that music isn't continuous and a speakers rating is an 'average power'. A speaker(or sub) rated at say 100w can be driven hard by a 200w amp on normal music if excursion is under control. The average wattage on normal music averages a lot lower than 'tones'.
Read this thread to know if a speaker is designed for sealed or vented.
Efficiency Bandwidth Product[EBP] of cone speaker drivers
Efficiency Bandwidth Product[EBP] of cone speaker drivers
Here is an EBP calculator.
Efficiency Bandwidth Product Calculators - EBP, Speaker Resonance Frequency, Speaker Electrical
Efficiency Bandwidth Product Calculators - EBP, Speaker Resonance Frequency, Speaker Electrical
Thank you for the help.
I do see that the DVC version has 4db less sens and 2mm extra excursion. It also has a lower f3 sealed. Is none of the relevant to clarity or output in my situation?
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