New sub from these components

[Oldgit the tenth]

Hi, I plan to build a new sub to integrate with my HiFi system.

I have a Dayton Audio RSS315 HF-4 bass unit and a Monacor Sam 2 amp.

Plan is for a tall 360 x 360 x 800 ish sealed box. Comments or recommendations/adjustments p;ease

I'm a cabinet maker rather than electronics experts so some replies may go over my head, but.......................

Cheers in advance.

 

[Oldgit the tenth]

Well, that went down well, Billy no mates here,

I'll try again as I also posted on PF as log in issues on here;


Sub design using Monacor/Dayton Audio kit | pink fish media


Hope that works.

 

[Oldgit the tenth]

Ah, Ok, just remembered why I left this forum.

 

[Nenola]

So you built a ported box for this and it seems to work, but now you want to go for sealed. What do you want to achieve with this?

Links to parts are usually a good idea, and if you have box measurements, you could also give the volume you are going for. Just a few pointers that the topic readers don't have to search and calculate everything.

And if you wan't to experiment with different enclosures, it's a good idea to simulate those with some software, like WinISD.

 

[Lunchietey]

Box may be a touch too big. 60l or even less may be better unless you are going for low Q for any particular reason?

If you want more replies, try plotting the box design on winISD(like everyone does) and post the pictures on here for people to look at and critique.

Don't throw a random question out without your own specific goals(what are you using it for, what are you powering it with, what do you listen to, what output are you hoping for, what cutoff frequency are you chasing etc).

You basically want others to take their own time to figure it out for you and post results of the work you should do yourself first. In fact doing a plot yourself first may even answer your own questions before even coming on here and you will learn how to do it on the way.

 

[Oldgit the tenth]

Box may be a touch too big. 60l or even less may be better unless you are going for low Q for any particular reason?

If you want more replies, try plotting the box design on winISD(like everyone does) and post the pictures on here for people to look at and critique.

Don't throw a random question out without your own specific goals(what are you using it for, what are you powering it with, what do you listen to, what output are you hoping for, what cutoff frequency are you chasing etc).

You basically want others to take their own time to figure it out for you and post results of the work you should do yourself first. In fact doing a plot yourself first may even answer your own questions before even coming on here and you will learn how to do it on the way.

You can see what I did in the link. The issue was I couldn't make much sense of the free calculators as I didn't have the correct microsoft program installed on windows 10, only found one that worked, and it seemed to conflict with what other posters thought.

Other point is I haven't a clue to be honest of what all the parameters mean, or more so how they relate to final sound hence throwing myself at the mercy of more learned guys on here.
Often people can detect when someone needs basic help, go away and figure it yourself rather than expect us to do it doesn't reflect to well in my opinion.

If you do read what I posted elsewhere you will see it was really an interpretation of figures for the amp/drivers Id chosen, all those were linked to.

The final post above was just to show the final outcome as I thought it may be of some interest.