Cool, the little sub does look stable enough for the top. Looks pretty good in the flesh I'd say !
Oh and when I meant a few smaller drivers, I meant 3 or 4 16 ohm in parallel just for efficiency, not so much a line. An apt80 hf driver would go in too. I've also started looking at sealed back drivers again haha, that old system I mentioned was surprisingly good.
Oh and when I meant a few smaller drivers, I meant 3 or 4 16 ohm in parallel just for efficiency, not so much a line. An apt80 hf driver would go in too. I've also started looking at sealed back drivers again haha, that old system I mentioned was surprisingly good.
Sealed-back units mean you can get away with just putting them on a baffle - no need to extra cabinet walls if you wanted to save size/weight. If it was mine I'd probably make it a U-frame or something and cover the back with speaker grille - gives you lots of air flow around the magnets.
The drivers in the bass module (it doesn't really go low enough for me to call it a subwoofer) each have a 5" diameter ferrite magnet. Combined with the 18mm material, the bass module is actually rather heavy for its size, so I expect it's more than stable enough for the job.
After high-power testing, I'll be looking at getting some longer poles to go between the speakers - that one was only 4' or so, which isn't tall enough to get the top speaker over the heads of the audience.
Chris
Bit of an update following some high-SPL testing:
- You get around 117dB from the subs before there's distortion and the volume level stops going up as you apply more power.
- The sub is very efficient in comparison to the top speaker. The top needs +9dB of signal to get a level frequency response, with the associated power increase.
- If you apply 8dB of boost at 55Hz, you get a response that's flat to there. That's also the port tuning frequency.
- With that boost in place, each side of the crossover is getting roughly equal power. The mid-high range is still getting a little more.
- Flat to 55Hz thumps okay for most chart music. I can see why people are happy with the likes of a THAM12.
- This bass module gets easily loud enough to feel the bass.
I'm rather happy with the bass module now, and am looking forward to having the second one completed.
Chris
- You get around 117dB from the subs before there's distortion and the volume level stops going up as you apply more power.
- The sub is very efficient in comparison to the top speaker. The top needs +9dB of signal to get a level frequency response, with the associated power increase.
- If you apply 8dB of boost at 55Hz, you get a response that's flat to there. That's also the port tuning frequency.
- With that boost in place, each side of the crossover is getting roughly equal power. The mid-high range is still getting a little more.
- Flat to 55Hz thumps okay for most chart music. I can see why people are happy with the likes of a THAM12.
- This bass module gets easily loud enough to feel the bass.
I'm rather happy with the bass module now, and am looking forward to having the second one completed.
Chris
Removeable panel
Hi Chris
Why not put in a removable panel, so you can access those 6".
For a nice not too expensive 8" woofer take a look at this Monacor SP-8/150PRO.
MONACOR - Products - SP-8/150PRO
Take a look at the Xmax, that is coil height - gap / 2.
According to Klang und Ton (german magazin it also sounds ok.
best rgards
uwe
Hi Chris
Why not put in a removable panel, so you can access those 6".
For a nice not too expensive 8" woofer take a look at this Monacor SP-8/150PRO.
MONACOR - Products - SP-8/150PRO
Take a look at the Xmax, that is coil height - gap / 2.
According to Klang und Ton (german magazin it also sounds ok.
best rgards
uwe
Hey Uwe,
To answer your question, there's no way to get any more of these 6"s, unless I do a bulk order with B&C with the same T/S parameters. As a result, if I burn out one or more of the drivers, I will cut open the cabinets to rescue any working drivers. There's no need to open it up unless a failure occurs.
Chris
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