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Want to build a TL subwoofer - driver advice needed
Want to build a TL subwoofer - driver advice needed
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Old 2nd March 2018, 11:55 PM   #1
solid7 is offline solid7  United States
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Default Want to build a TL subwoofer - driver advice needed

I have gotten the DIY bug again, and really want to do a transmission line subwoofer. I don't need to blow the roof off of the house. Just something that sounds really nice with my soon-to-be built Zaph ZRT mains.

I was thinking to start off with a 10" woofer, and maybe add a second one later, if I like the result. I've been away from the home audio thing for a few years, so I'm not so current on driver selection.

I'd really like to find a driver in the $500 or less range that suits a TL well. Obviously, I want the best sound possible, but I'm a sucker for a good value proposition. (meaning I don't mind cheap drivers if they're awesome)

Thanks in advance
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Old 3rd March 2018, 02:59 AM   #2
Brian Steele is offline Brian Steele  Grenada
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I'd start the search by looking for a driver with a Qts between 0.35~0.40 and an Fs around the cutoff frequency I'm looking for, e.g. 20 Hz ~ 30 Hz.

With a budget of $500, that opens a whole lot of possibilities. Were I ever tempted to spend that much on a 10" driver, I'd probably look at the Morel TiCW 1058Ft - Morel TiCW 1058Ft Titanium Series 10" Subwoofer 8 Ohm

I'd probably opt for something cheaper though, like the Dayton Audio RSS265HO:

Dayton Audio RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
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Old 3rd March 2018, 03:37 AM   #3
solid7 is offline solid7  United States
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I have always been a fan of the Dayton drivers, but should I be worried that the F3 of the Dayton is 39 Hz, vs 29 Hz of the Morel? Dayton has the Morel beat on xmax, but I realize this isn't going to be the ultimate factor...
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Old 3rd March 2018, 03:40 AM   #4
Brian Steele is offline Brian Steele  Grenada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solid7 View Post
I have always been a fan of the Dayton drivers, but should I be worried that the F3 of the Dayton is 39 Hz, vs 29 Hz of the Morel? Dayton has the Morel beat on xmax, but I realize this isn't going to be the ultimate factor...
Ignore the F3 given on the page - that's dependent on the vented alignment given on the page, and you're not going to be using that
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Old 3rd March 2018, 02:56 PM   #5
solid7 is offline solid7  United States
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Just curious what made you choose that particular Dayton driver? Honestly, so many of them look so similar. Not questioning your choice in any way, other than to understand what makes this one a better choice than another.

Why not use one more like this, for instance:

Dayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil
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Old 3rd March 2018, 03:11 PM   #6
Brian Steele is offline Brian Steele  Grenada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solid7 View Post
Just curious what made you choose that particular Dayton driver? Honestly, so many of them look so similar. Not questioning your choice in any way, other than to understand what makes this one a better choice than another.

Why not use one more like this, for instance:

Dayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil
Qts is a bit high for my liking for this purpose.
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Old 3rd March 2018, 04:42 PM   #7
solid7 is offline solid7  United States
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So, why do we want to keep low Qts in this application? Isn't the cross sectional area of the TL dependent on the Qts? As in, we can compensate for it?

Or do you just mean you'd prefer to keep the enclosure small?
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Old 4th March 2018, 04:21 PM   #8
solid7 is offline solid7  United States
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I've seen some advice to keep the Qts low, and some say that higher Qts drivers are preferred.

Maybe this would be a better question: If I were to want to build a T/L speaker, what is probably the most definitive resource for a DIY'er today? There used to be several box modeling softwares out there. Can't seem to find much, anymore. I don't see tons of discussions, anymore.

I'd also really like some clarification on what constitutes a T/L, vs just a long vented port? Or with modern manufacturing methods, there are more and more "labyrinth" designs. Is that a true T/L?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 4th March 2018, 05:56 PM   #9
chris661 is offline chris661  United Kingdom
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The definition of a transmission line speaker has become quite diluted in recent years. The classic TL was designed to completely absorb the back wave of the driver by funnelling it down a tunnel and increasing the stuffing density until all the sound was absorbed. The result would be something similar to the bass response you get with an infinite baffle (NB - not the same as a sealed box).

These days, most TLs are some variant on a quarter-wave resonator, which often ends up quite similar to a ported box in terms of response, output and cabinet size.

IMO, for ultimate sound quality at home, sealed boxes are the way to go, unless you want to go below 25Hz with real power. In that case, tuned enclosures are the way to do it unless you've got the budget for a lot of cone area and power.

Chris
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Old 4th March 2018, 06:13 PM   #10
Brian Steele is offline Brian Steele  Grenada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris661 View Post
The definition of a transmission line speaker has become quite diluted in recent years. The classic TL was designed to completely absorb the back wave of the driver by funnelling it down a tunnel and increasing the stuffing density until all the sound was absorbed. The result would be something similar to the bass response you get with an infinite baffle (NB - not the same as a sealed box).
Yup, that's the polite way of putting classical TL design. The less-polite way was that the lines probably end up getting very stuffed to reduce the awful resonances caused by using too-big enclosures due to the use of inaccurate "design rules" used for building the things. Stuffing significantly reduced the response from the vent, the end result being a response similar to what you'd get with the same driver in an infinite baffle arrangement. No wonder higher-Q drivers were liked for this type of build.
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