I think a few things.
With regards to not feeling any bass standing in front of a horn-loaded sub, I've had the opposite experience - vision-blurring, tooth-rattling bass. That said, with a large sub array, standing in front of just one of the cabinets would result in cancellations that would reduce the output where you're standing.
All cabinets have to deal with Hoffman's Iron Law - small size, high efficiency, deep bass - pick two. The THMini is small and efficient, and trades off deep bass to get there. The Anarchy tapped horn (google it) is a similar size and goes down to 25Hz. It's also around 82dB at 1w.
You could measure the Celestion drivers, but I'd bet an Fs of >50Hz and probably only a few mm of Xmax. Speaker manufacturers these days aren't afraid to throw a lot of DSP boost around.
Chris
With regards to not feeling any bass standing in front of a horn-loaded sub, I've had the opposite experience - vision-blurring, tooth-rattling bass. That said, with a large sub array, standing in front of just one of the cabinets would result in cancellations that would reduce the output where you're standing.
All cabinets have to deal with Hoffman's Iron Law - small size, high efficiency, deep bass - pick two. The THMini is small and efficient, and trades off deep bass to get there. The Anarchy tapped horn (google it) is a similar size and goes down to 25Hz. It's also around 82dB at 1w.
You could measure the Celestion drivers, but I'd bet an Fs of >50Hz and probably only a few mm of Xmax. Speaker manufacturers these days aren't afraid to throw a lot of DSP boost around.
Chris
Seems you are correct, sir!
A very good explanation of why so many people got it wrong is to be found here, esp at the bottom of the first page:
Folded horn sub question
Very interesting stuff. I was considering building my own, smal horn-loaded subs after all. Now I'm not so sure. Maybe the perceived volume from BR distortion is actually better, for my situations.
Lord, I don't know ....
A very good explanation of why so many people got it wrong is to be found here, esp at the bottom of the first page:
Folded horn sub question
Very interesting stuff. I was considering building my own, smal horn-loaded subs after all. Now I'm not so sure. Maybe the perceived volume from BR distortion is actually better, for my situations.
Lord, I don't know ....
Getting back to my original question:
I'm still considering TEMPORARILY replacing my 12" drivers, so I need to ask another question.
Here's the deal:
I'm going to build something this year, and most likely it will be dual 12" PPSL boxes.
I have now found the specs for the original Line6 driver, and the specs for the good 12" I will likely use in my new build isn't horribly different. Because it may take me a long time to finish my custom build, I'd like to at last TRY the new drivers in my current L3S boxes.
If the EQ compensation is off, I can simply adjust that at the source, since my mixer is a PC-based DAW.
SO MY QUESTION:
The big thing I'd have o modify is the ports, of course. I can probably run all the existing data through software and get reasonably close. - And I really don't care about chopping up the L3S's. They don't have great resale value. Heck, maybe they'll even end up sound decent.
Should this work? In other words, given my already cast-in-stone cabinet dimensions, and whatever the T/S parameters are for the driver, and assuming I'm "flexible as to the overall box tuning, should I be able to simple come up with new ports, and create a properly-functioning box?
I assume so, but wanted to check first. This could really help me get through the summer, while I take my time building those PPSL's.
I'm still considering TEMPORARILY replacing my 12" drivers, so I need to ask another question.
Here's the deal:
I'm going to build something this year, and most likely it will be dual 12" PPSL boxes.
I have now found the specs for the original Line6 driver, and the specs for the good 12" I will likely use in my new build isn't horribly different. Because it may take me a long time to finish my custom build, I'd like to at last TRY the new drivers in my current L3S boxes.
If the EQ compensation is off, I can simply adjust that at the source, since my mixer is a PC-based DAW.
SO MY QUESTION:
The big thing I'd have o modify is the ports, of course. I can probably run all the existing data through software and get reasonably close. - And I really don't care about chopping up the L3S's. They don't have great resale value. Heck, maybe they'll even end up sound decent.
Should this work? In other words, given my already cast-in-stone cabinet dimensions, and whatever the T/S parameters are for the driver, and assuming I'm "flexible as to the overall box tuning, should I be able to simple come up with new ports, and create a properly-functioning box?
I assume so, but wanted to check first. This could really help me get through the summer, while I take my time building those PPSL's.
1) Post both sets of TS parameters, please.
2) Box tuning remain the same regardless of driver.
What is the Fb presently?
Why do you assume the ports need modification?
3) With specs and cabinet dimensions, one could simulate which driver will "work" better.
That said, without testing your present driver's excursion, SPL, and distortion, (and also testing the electronics for distortion), you have no benchmarks to verify change for better or worse.
Good luck!
Art
2) Box tuning remain the same regardless of driver.
What is the Fb presently?
Why do you assume the ports need modification?
3) With specs and cabinet dimensions, one could simulate which driver will "work" better.
That said, without testing your present driver's excursion, SPL, and distortion, (and also testing the electronics for distortion), you have no benchmarks to verify change for better or worse.
Good luck!
Art
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