Dual Tang Band 6.5" BR

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I have just realised that a slot port would be way easier than a PVC pipe. I wanted to use a tube but it makes more sense for the cabinet to have extra bracing with the port wall.

I think you mentioned to me before about running the port in a L shape along the rear of the cabinet and it effects FB in some way. Perhaps you might be able to refresh me, please? It has the same particle speed 12.5ms and a sharp corner.

Thank you for your input so far!

I'm getting close to the build stage.


You should be fine with a right-angled bend and a particle speed of 12.5m/s

At 22m/s, you are going to see some vent compression effects. This may not be readily audible however, unless perhaps you're playing test tones.

The proximity of the inside end of the vent to the nearby walls will lower the effective resonance frequency a bit. Be prepared to measure Fb and to trim the vent if necessary.
 
My GF isn't happy.
 

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Your cabinet looks tight and right, nice clean work there. I hope you like the subs (I have a feeling you will). I've had countess subs, my TB 6 are on my favorable list.

Coincidently I just finished seeing 4 slightly used for sale under the same model number. If anyone may be interested in Canada (no affiliation) send me a PM.

The seller is asking $80 for all four. In Canadian funds after factoring in shipping thats a very good deal.

I have to pass but they got me wondering how they would work in two separate isobaric boxes. Anyone care to run a simulation for fun?

I hope I didn't offend you for sliding off topic a little bit, Graham. Care to share finishing plans? I'd like to see that when complete.

Enjoy your new subs.
 
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Hi!

No, not at all, all input is welcome!

Thanks, yeah I think the box is coming along nicely. I will be bracing with some 15mm dowel and using Van Damme 2.5mm twin core studio speaker cable this weekend.

As for finishing, I have no idea as yet. These subs are for my front room so the Girlfriend Approval Factor is a string element to consider. I previously used some paint made for wood. This time maybe I should go with an undercoat and then a gloss?

What finishing would you recommend?


Your cabinet looks tight and right, nice clean work there. I hope you like the subs (I have a feeling you will). I've had countess subs, my TB 6 are on my favorable list.

Coincidently I just finished seeing 4 slightly used for sale under the same model number. If anyone may be interested in Canada (no affiliation) send me a PM.

The seller is asking $80 for all four. In Canadian funds after factoring in shipping thats a very good deal.

I have to pass but they got me wondering how they would work in two separate isobaric boxes. Anyone care to run a simulation for fun?

I hope I didn't offend you for sliding off topic a little bit, Graham. Care to share finishing plans? I'd like to see that when complete.

Enjoy your new subs.
 
Thanks man, I'm really looking forward to the drivers arriving!

Do you know much about measuring after it is complete? I am not sure where to start looking or what terminology to use.

I have an Audio Technica condensor mic and a small garden, would these be good to do a frequency response test with? Is there particular software for this or is Room EQ Wizard the way to go?

Thanks!

Hi Graham

Looks really good :)
Tuned to 30 Hz you will have quite a good output, also with the driver's 11,5 mm Xlin
Cool
/Baldin
 
Light maple veneers seem wife friendly. Finished with natural danish oil and a low gloss clear over it. Or white washed veneer. Something that blends in lol. Go over finishes with your gf, get her involved. If she ends up liking it getting a 2nd sub into the room might fly. Gloss white is nice but not the best to do over MDF unless you seal it good by rolling on a couple coats of good quality two part glass resin. Choices are endless. That box deserves something nice over it.
 
I had thought about veneer but it will be a first for me, I'd better get youtubing for some education!

Yeah, a white wash would be very nice as well. Oh the options!

I'd better make sure it works properly before I count my chickens tho!

Light maple veneers seem wife friendly. Finished with natural danish oil and a low gloss clear over it. Or white washed veneer. Something that blends in lol. Go over finishes with your gf, get her involved. If she ends up liking it getting a 2nd sub into the room might fly. Gloss white is nice but not the best to do over MDF unless you seal it good by rolling on a couple coats of good quality two part glass resin. Choices are endless. That box deserves something nice over it.
 
My port velocity of 12.5ms so I am hoping I won't need to do too much work on that. I have sanded down the inside port so it is flared and might round over the inside corner of the port and if I need to I was thinking about adding this kind of arrangement on the front.
slot_flare.jpg


I would use a radius/flare on the port to keep distortion and velocity down.
Also it will couple better to the surrounding air.
 
Quick update, all loaded in and cabled up with Van Damme 2.5mm studio grade.

Sounds great on first listen but is a little lacking in punchiness. I wonder if I'll work out why when I measure it in REW.

Crossover set to 120hz.

Maybe a second unit will even things out?
 

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Thanks Brian, once the Christmas tree is down (I know its a bit late) I can start with the subwoofer crawl etc.

After input from others I took the port down by 10cm, I noticed a difference immediately but I have not measured. Still, it's a prototype before I build a pair.

If that's where you're locating it, it could be because of cancellation in the upper bass range because of the out of phase reflection off that wall in the back. Mount it up against the wall, rather than out in front like that.
 
I am also very interested in your boom-unit project that I think might make a suitable cab for one of these. I need to learn hornresp first as it's a little mystifying to me atm!

If that's where you're locating it, it could be because of cancellation in the upper bass range because of the out of phase reflection off that wall in the back. Mount it up against the wall, rather than out in front like that.
 
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