I am toying with the idea of building my own subs for home theater. I am inputting the parameters from various Parts Express Subs into WinISD.
I am most confused about the results I am getting on sealed subs. This is the result from a really well reviewed sub, the Eminence Lab 12C. Reviews say how awesome it is in a 1 cubic ft sealed box...
This is in the optimum size sealed box ~2.5 cubic ft (1 Cft is worse)
This is -3 dB at 50 Hz! And -16 dB at 20 Hz... either people have a much different opinion of what a great sub is, or I am missing something....
I am most confused about the results I am getting on sealed subs. This is the result from a really well reviewed sub, the Eminence Lab 12C. Reviews say how awesome it is in a 1 cubic ft sealed box...
This is in the optimum size sealed box ~2.5 cubic ft (1 Cft is worse)
This is -3 dB at 50 Hz! And -16 dB at 20 Hz... either people have a much different opinion of what a great sub is, or I am missing something....
Mostly curiosity I guess. My SVS subs are awesome, for the money I want to spend, I doubt I'll be able to improve much, if at all, on them. I am just trying to learn. I may never build one, but I like having the knowledge in case I ever want to.
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OK, fair enough. I use HornResp to model boxes.
The sealed box will start to roll off at 50Hz, but its slope will be gradual (-12db/oct). The ported box will roll off maybe in 30's but will fall much faster than a sealed box. There are many enclosures types and performance tradeoffs. It might be worthwhile investigating the types before selecting one.
The sealed box will start to roll off at 50Hz, but its slope will be gradual (-12db/oct). The ported box will roll off maybe in 30's but will fall much faster than a sealed box. There are many enclosures types and performance tradeoffs. It might be worthwhile investigating the types before selecting one.
When it comes to home subs, the thing to remember is this - whatever pretty graphs you make, that won't happen in a domestically-sized room.
For example, one room I worked in had a 10dB spike at 40Hz. The room I'm currently in is something like +15dB at 12Hz. Here, if you get something flat to 20Hz the room gives you almost an octave, pretty much for free.
I'd expect the curve you've shown to work quite well in most living rooms. If not, you can always EQ it.
Chris
For example, one room I worked in had a 10dB spike at 40Hz. The room I'm currently in is something like +15dB at 12Hz. Here, if you get something flat to 20Hz the room gives you almost an octave, pretty much for free.
I'd expect the curve you've shown to work quite well in most living rooms. If not, you can always EQ it.
Chris
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