Hello!
I built a subwoofer with a Dayton Audio PA460-8 element in it.
To run it I bought a iNuke 6000 DSP.
I connected the sub-output on the home theater via a RCA/TS mono adapter into the iNuke.
The speaker cable is made of 2 x 4mm2 wire with 2 pole Speakon connectors in each end. I use the 1+ and 1- contacts.
When playing music or movies, I got very little sound out of the sub. I turned the volume all the way to max and almost no sound at all.
Connected the mobile phone with a stereo TS-adapter to the iNuke with the same result.
Then I lowered the volume to all other speakers in the home theater as much as possible while I adjusted the sub channel to max.
Then I pulled up the amplification to the max in the iNuke (think it was 12 dB).
Now i got more out of the sub and are able to play. But there are a lot of humming when playing from analogue sources.
There are four diodes by the volume knob. I think they show how much power the amp is putting out. If that is correct, I were unable get more than 25% of full power (one diode).
I tested both channels without any difference.
I suspect that input signal is too low but I can't figure out what to do next
I built a subwoofer with a Dayton Audio PA460-8 element in it.
To run it I bought a iNuke 6000 DSP.
I connected the sub-output on the home theater via a RCA/TS mono adapter into the iNuke.
The speaker cable is made of 2 x 4mm2 wire with 2 pole Speakon connectors in each end. I use the 1+ and 1- contacts.
When playing music or movies, I got very little sound out of the sub. I turned the volume all the way to max and almost no sound at all.
Connected the mobile phone with a stereo TS-adapter to the iNuke with the same result.
Then I lowered the volume to all other speakers in the home theater as much as possible while I adjusted the sub channel to max.
Then I pulled up the amplification to the max in the iNuke (think it was 12 dB).
Now i got more out of the sub and are able to play. But there are a lot of humming when playing from analogue sources.
There are four diodes by the volume knob. I think they show how much power the amp is putting out. If that is correct, I were unable get more than 25% of full power (one diode).
I tested both channels without any difference.
I suspect that input signal is too low but I can't figure out what to do next
I don't have access to the amplifier right now, but I think it is set to Stereo.
I created some DSP presets with 0, 6 and 12 dB gain and at 12 dB I get the highest output as expected. But the results from those tests are incuded in the initial description.
I am trying to get the reseller on the phone but they seem busy.
One explanation would be if the input signal to the iNuke is other than line level, but that wouldn't make any sense.
I created some DSP presets with 0, 6 and 12 dB gain and at 12 dB I get the highest output as expected. But the results from those tests are incuded in the initial description.
I am trying to get the reseller on the phone but they seem busy.
One explanation would be if the input signal to the iNuke is other than line level, but that wouldn't make any sense.
Easy to test - connect the headphone output from a phone, tablet, whatever to the iNuke and play back some music. If the volume is substantially louder, then the issue may be with the line level feed from your HT system.
A home audio line level output isn't enough to get all the juice out of an iNuke. In the pro audio world, we use XLR cables and consoles that can output up to 10v RMS (+22dBU). The iNukes need a couple of volts input to hit clip (assuming you're not applying a load of boost), so the 0.5v-level signals found in home audio will leave you short.
Chris
Chris
Chris,
The iNuke series needs only .775V (0dBu) for rated power into 4 ohms, when the clip/limit light (0dBFS) illuminates.
The OP should try using a "shield lift" termination:RCA + to XLR Pin 2, RCA- to XLR Pin 3, XLR Pin 1, no connection.
The same outcome can be done with a 1/4" TRS:RCA + to Tip, RCA- to Ring, Sleeve, no connection.
Art
True, the NU6000 will only do 2KW/ch into 4ohm and 1.2KW/ch into 8ohm. Not bad though
Chris
True, the NU6000 will only do 2KW/ch into 4ohm and 1.2KW/ch into 8ohm. Not bad though
Chris
Basically drop one zero from the name and you'll have a good idea of the total RMS output into 8 ohm loads...
CLEANBoxPro
If you’re still not satisfied with the output you may need one of these. ART CLEANBoxPro Stereo Balanced/Unbalanced Converter
Regards,
Matt
If you’re still not satisfied with the output you may need one of these. ART CLEANBoxPro Stereo Balanced/Unbalanced Converter
Regards,
Matt
So what they don't do rated output, if I extrapolate these measurements:
Behringer inuke NU6000 vs KAM KXD7200 bench tested - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1
My NU12000DSP provides at least 8KW rms into 2x 2ohm loads. I paid 680 euro's new. Thats an amazing deal if you ask me. The powersupply might shut off if it's all Sub, so 1 channel feeds subs, the other feeds Kickbins.
But back ontopic, definitely sounds like extremely low signal. -24dB light even with 12dB boost. That would suggest about 20mV rms of signal... Try any other device you can find, it should get a lot louder.
Behringer inuke NU6000 vs KAM KXD7200 bench tested - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1
My NU12000DSP provides at least 8KW rms into 2x 2ohm loads. I paid 680 euro's new. Thats an amazing deal if you ask me. The powersupply might shut off if it's all Sub, so 1 channel feeds subs, the other feeds Kickbins.
But back ontopic, definitely sounds like extremely low signal. -24dB light even with 12dB boost. That would suggest about 20mV rms of signal... Try any other device you can find, it should get a lot louder.
I picked up on Chris661 and Weltersys idea of signal levels and XLR contacts.
Took an RCA cable and opened up one end. Connected it to an XLR contact by a screw terminal. This setup did only produce a lot of noise and no sound at all. That's to bad since I planned to use the terminal to measure the signal level. I wanted to run a test tone from youtube and use a AC voltage meter. If I had an oscilloscope I would have used that instead....
Anyway, then I removed the RCA cable and connected a signal generator to the xlr contact instead. I applied a sinus waveform and adjusted the voltage level bit by bit up to 1.5 Vrms. With this I got a huge amount of clean sound from the sub. I couldn't bare going past 50% volume.
The best explanation of this is that there is a mismatch of signal levels as Chris661 mentioned earlier. Another explanation could be that the iNuke input draw too much current. The cleanboxpro suggested by reloader650 seems to be a good remedy for this.
Thanks for the valuable help, now I know what the problem is and what to do about it.
Took an RCA cable and opened up one end. Connected it to an XLR contact by a screw terminal. This setup did only produce a lot of noise and no sound at all. That's to bad since I planned to use the terminal to measure the signal level. I wanted to run a test tone from youtube and use a AC voltage meter. If I had an oscilloscope I would have used that instead....
Anyway, then I removed the RCA cable and connected a signal generator to the xlr contact instead. I applied a sinus waveform and adjusted the voltage level bit by bit up to 1.5 Vrms. With this I got a huge amount of clean sound from the sub. I couldn't bare going past 50% volume.
The best explanation of this is that there is a mismatch of signal levels as Chris661 mentioned earlier. Another explanation could be that the iNuke input draw too much current. The cleanboxpro suggested by reloader650 seems to be a good remedy for this.
Thanks for the valuable help, now I know what the problem is and what to do about it.
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1) This indicates your termination was incorrect.
2)See #1.
3) The iNuke input is fairly high impedance, so a high current draw is not the likely cause of the low drive level, your phone headphone output should have driven it near "full tilt" if the termination was correct. A pre-amp could drive it harder- the "cleanboxpro" for example isolates the probmlem of termination.
4) Still think you should consider proper connections, as I suggested previously, you may need nothing but a proper connection isolating your drive source from Pin 1/Shield, and routing signal to only Pin 2/Tip "+" and pin 3/Ring, with no connection to pin 1/Sleeve. Pin 1/Sleeve may introduce a "ground loop" which may only produce a lot of noise, or a "short" producing no sound at all.
Good luck,
Have fun!
Cheers,
Art
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