Hi All,
I am trying to put together a subwoofer for my Nola Brio Trio clones. I have already built the satellites (see "I need a little help building a bass reflex open baffle hybrid" thread). I am a total novice so please excuse my ignorance. The trio uses an 8" woofer/subwoofer in a sealed box. I am wondering if it would be advantageous to use a paper based driver in order to fast responses and good transient response to match the the decidedly fast response of the drivers used in the satellites. Or conversely to use something similar to what Nola uses which does not look like a paper driver (any help in identifying the type of driver used by Nola would be greatly appreciated!!). But any direction you all could provide would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!!!
I am trying to put together a subwoofer for my Nola Brio Trio clones. I have already built the satellites (see "I need a little help building a bass reflex open baffle hybrid" thread). I am a total novice so please excuse my ignorance. The trio uses an 8" woofer/subwoofer in a sealed box. I am wondering if it would be advantageous to use a paper based driver in order to fast responses and good transient response to match the the decidedly fast response of the drivers used in the satellites. Or conversely to use something similar to what Nola uses which does not look like a paper driver (any help in identifying the type of driver used by Nola would be greatly appreciated!!). But any direction you all could provide would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!!!
Bass is neither fast or slow. To produce 50Hz, the cone must complete 50 cycles in one second, which is extremely slow. Even 40" cones can do it, no problem.
I'd always recommend the use of an amplifier with DSP for subwoofer applications - rooms can have response deviations of the order of 20dB, so any careful alignment will easily be thrown out.
With regards to driver/cabinet selection...
- What's the maximum cabinet size you can go to?
- Budget?
- How loud do you want to go?
- How low do you want to go?
Chris
I'd always recommend the use of an amplifier with DSP for subwoofer applications - rooms can have response deviations of the order of 20dB, so any careful alignment will easily be thrown out.
With regards to driver/cabinet selection...
- What's the maximum cabinet size you can go to?
- Budget?
- How loud do you want to go?
- How low do you want to go?
Chris
I get the basic ideas around sound production. I guess my question goes more towards the idea that I don't want a lot of bloat/boomie-ness in the lower octaves and have heard that lighter paper cones are better in this regard.
To answer your question:
The system I am making does not need to be incredibly loud or incredibly low. If I could get down to 40hz I think that would be acceptable. In terms of maximum cabinet size I was hoping to be able to make it all work in a 12" cube(or close).
To answer your question:
The system I am making does not need to be incredibly loud or incredibly low. If I could get down to 40hz I think that would be acceptable. In terms of maximum cabinet size I was hoping to be able to make it all work in a 12" cube(or close).
Avoiding bloated bass would lead me to suggest ensuring you can do some basic EQ to help with room effects. A 10dB peak at 50Hz sounds very boomy.
Single 8-10" driver would do the job in a sealed box. Won't get particularly loud/low, but it'll be enough.
Don't get too hung up on cone materials. At low-frequencies, it's pretty much entirely about the cabinet.
Chris
Single 8-10" driver would do the job in a sealed box. Won't get particularly loud/low, but it'll be enough.
Don't get too hung up on cone materials. At low-frequencies, it's pretty much entirely about the cabinet.
Chris
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