Please help
I have a 150w 6ohm Sony home sub, and i am tring to wire a Cerwin Vega 12D4 speaker. I can not fing out if there is a way to wire the 12D4 so that the speaker is getting the lowest ohm possible but only pulling a 6ohm draw. I wont to do this because the Sony speaker that came in the sub can not handle the power that the amp is giving it.
I have a 150w 6ohm Sony home sub, and i am tring to wire a Cerwin Vega 12D4 speaker. I can not fing out if there is a way to wire the 12D4 so that the speaker is getting the lowest ohm possible but only pulling a 6ohm draw. I wont to do this because the Sony speaker that came in the sub can not handle the power that the amp is giving it.
wcl1996 said:
If I'm not mistaken, the 12D4 has dual 4 ohm coils (hence the D4 suffix). If this IS in fact the case, you only have three total wiring possibilities. The first is to simply run only one 4 ohm coil, but that isn't really a viable option since doing that will drop the thermal power handling of the driver in half (which probably wouldn't help you in your situation). The other choice would be to run the two 4 ohm coils in series which would yield a total of 8 ohms. Wiring them in series would certainly be the easiest on your amp, but you didn't mention what type of amplifier you are using, so I am only making a guess that it is a powered sub that you are trying to retrofit a driver into (while trying to emulate the impedence of the existing driver) Wiring the two 4 ohm coils in parallel would likely be a bad choice since that drops the total impedence of the driver down to 2 ohms nominal. If you can, try to give some more information on the box-size and amplifier. Keep in mind that if the box is a ported design that re-tuning the box to suit the new driver is a necessity. If the box isn't re-tuned the addition of the new driver may actually hurt the low-end performance of your sub box. The best advice I can give with the information you have posted is to run the coils in series to get a nominal 8 ohm impedence (to play it safe on the amp). The only other thing is the box tuning issue. You really need to get the Thiele-Small parameters for the driver, go to speakerbuilding.com and download WinISD to help you calculate the port tuning for the box. If you've never done this before, welcome to the truly WONDERFUL world of do-it-yourself audio! With a little patience and the willingness to learn, you will discover very quickly that you can pretty easily build stuff that FAR surpasses most anything you can buy, not to mention the money you will save. The best part about the whole thing is when you make something that actually works and sounds good!
wcl1996 said:
You made mention that the driver won't handle the power, but that may not really be the case. Are you exceeding the mechanical limits of the driver? Have you made any EQ adjustments to the system to "push-up" the low-end?
This is an all too familiar scenario that I'm sure just about everyone on this message board has dealt with at one time or another. Basically, you may be dealing with a situation where you are asking too much from that particular "package" (amp, box, driver) for the levels of bass that you're after. It is all to common of a scenario to end up with something that doesn't perform the way one would like, then try to extract as much performance out of it by pushing the low-end way up and pushing the driver to it's mechanical limit. Granted, replacing the driver is surely a good place to start, but without knowing some more details, it is next to impossible to determine what is going on. This is definitely the right place to come for help. I am pretty much a novice in comparison to most of the people on this forum, but nonetheless I'm always willing to help if I can.Hopefully this has shed at least a little light.
Rich.
the sub is the Sony SA-WM500
Features
• Built-In Amplifier with 150W into 6 ohms from 20 Hz-200 Hz at 0.7% THD
• Bass Reflex Design
• 12" Driver
• Frequency Response 24-170Hz
• Advanced SAW (Super Acoustically Loaded) Bass Reflex Design
• Variable High-Cut Frequency Control 50 - 170 Hz
When I turn the volume on the sub up so that it compares with the volume of the fronts, the sub starts to distort. My a/v receiver has the capability of changing the volume and frequency that the sub receives (+ or - 10db, 100,150,200hz). I have had other subs in the past attached to my receiver and they did not distort at higher volume.
The sub has a good sound, but I wont more bass and lower bass.
Features
• Built-In Amplifier with 150W into 6 ohms from 20 Hz-200 Hz at 0.7% THD
• Bass Reflex Design
• 12" Driver
• Frequency Response 24-170Hz
• Advanced SAW (Super Acoustically Loaded) Bass Reflex Design
• Variable High-Cut Frequency Control 50 - 170 Hz
When I turn the volume on the sub up so that it compares with the volume of the fronts, the sub starts to distort. My a/v receiver has the capability of changing the volume and frequency that the sub receives (+ or - 10db, 100,150,200hz). I have had other subs in the past attached to my receiver and they did not distort at higher volume.
The sub has a good sound, but I wont more bass and lower bass.
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