1 SI HST18mk2 or 2 Dayton Ultimax18 or other?

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Looking to do my first subwoofer build and hoping for some input. I'd like flat output to 20 or lower. Sound quality is first priority. This will be used in a 75% music, 25% ht setup. Supporting a pair of Zaph Audio ZRT 2.5 sealed mains. Plan to use miniDSP. Source will be OPPO 105D. Most likely looking at a sealed enclosure no more than 5 cubic ft. Would like to keep cost of sub(s), enclosure and parts, and sub amp(s) under $1200. Like the look of the Stereo Integrity HST18mk2 in a 4.2 ft3 enclosure but the Dayton Ultimax18s are much cheaper and seem to be pretty popular. I am new to this and open to thoughts and/or suggestions. Thanks.
 
I"m no expert on subs, but I think you're headed in the right direction - many people like sealed subs with music. I don't think you'd ever be dissatisfied with the UM18.

you can get the free Winisd program and model the sub yourself.
https://www.facebook.com/WinISD/

You will also get a lot of boundary gain at low frequencies, so you might find that you don't need "flat to 20Hz" to be happy with the bass production.
 
Thanks. Also curious as to what I should use to power it/them. See a lot of people using the iNukes but if I'm using the miniDSP, it seems like a waste and that I would rather my money for the amp be going toward clean power and not DSP stuff that I already have covered.
 
I modeled the UM-18 in a sealed 4 cubic foot sealed box. It looks pretty awesome with 500 watts. If you use a HP filter at 15 Hz and a bit of parametric boost you can get a bit more out of it, but I don't think you will miss that last little bit if you don't have it.
the UM-18 with 500W models at 112 dB without exceeding excursion.
 
The HST-18s appear to be intended to offer an option for those who want a lot of output in a small enclosure and can bring power to bear. Not everyone has room for multiple boxes or big boxes, but even the most powerful amps don't take up much more space than low power amps (outside of the breaker box). If you have the room, the two probably draw closer with the HST-18 probably pulling ahead just a bit in terms of maximum output and reduced distortion at higher levels over the longer term. The advantage to running two UM22s, though, would be to address room issues, which could mean more than absolute distortion levels at higher dBs. DSP does a lot, but room modes are best treated with multiple subs as has been known for decades.

I should mention that there is a third option that's just come about: popular demand has brought back the Stereo Integrity HT-18 as a MkII variant. I've not had a chance to model things up yet, but just looking at the specs that looks to have the potential to be a good competitor to the UM22. The inductance is up there, so it would be better to not to run it with too high a crossover and it doesn't have the useless carbon fiber bling if you're one to listen with your eyes, but you could get four of them for a little more than two UM22s. All three models have been proven to be good to great drivers, so it comes down to how much space you're willing to part with to make way for subs. Just note that good drivers loafing can give you cleaner sound than great drivers going flat out.
 
SI HT 18D2 model

Pauly -
I modeled the SI HT 18 in a sealed 4 ft^3 box with 500 watts. Pretty awesome. 116 dB maximum with 500 watts.

You can run it without parametric boost filter, or use up to 5dB boost at 25 Hz for a more flat response without exceeding xmax. Rename the attached file from .ZIP to .wpr and load it into Winisd if you'd like.
 

Attachments

  • SI HT18D2 closed.zip
    1.8 KB · Views: 32
true, I'm a push pull fan, and a pair of 18's can be a heavy mdf box !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've always been curious on trying a deep sealed sub.
I have my eyes on a pair of rs390hz for 11ft3 push pull sealed F3 around 30hz, and drivers come in a bit more than $345 total.

Ported F3 (and tuning) of 27hz works just fine for me, ported tuned F9 of 27hz is a little lean for me.
 
Last edited:
I really would prefer one box, and would like to keep distortion to a minimum so I'm leaning towards the SI HST. Any other drivers I should consider in sealed setup? Also, any other amps I should think about. My ideal setup would be the HST with something like a Powersoft K8 but that is miles above my budget. On the flip side, most people are using the iNukes or something similar but they just seem cheap to me and I can't stand how they don't disclose their actual RMS output.
 
I really would prefer one box, and would like to keep distortion to a minimum so I'm leaning towards the SI HST. Any other drivers I should consider in sealed setup? Also, any other amps I should think about. My ideal setup would be the HST with something like a Powersoft K8 but that is miles above my budget. On the flip side, most people are using the iNukes or something similar but they just seem cheap to me and I can't stand how they don't disclose their actual RMS output.

It is a shame you won't consider to separate subs since with only one you give up the FR smoothing ability of multiples. If one box is mandatory then the HST-18 is at the top of the list, though I would model a pair of Ultimax 18s in one box prior to making my decision if you are willing to add the extra box space.

The iNukes are inexpensive and built to price point but in this type of usage they work just fine. A bridged 3000 would be the iNuke choice for a HST-18 (a 6000 is basically two bridges 3000 so it can be bridged). It won't fully power an HST-18 but may be enough for your needs. If you are not worried about much ULF (you mentioned down to 20hz) the bridged 3000 will give you 1400-1500 watts sustained based on multiple bench tests that have been reported on the iNuke series. If you don't have other outboard processing I would choose the 3000 DSP which is very good processing for this job for a mere $50.

The discussion of drivers and amps gives me an idea of your budget and my choice would be two UM18s in separate boxes run with a iNuke 6000.

Two other drivers to consider for one box solutions (staying at 18") would be the RE Audio XXX and the Mach 5 UXL18. Given I don't do sealed subs so I don't know the pros/cons of them in a specific sized sealed box but both are quality drivers.
 
true, I'm a push pull fan, and a pair of 18's can be a heavy mdf box !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've always been curious on trying a deep sealed sub.
I have my eyes on a pair of rs390hz for 11ft3 push pull sealed F3 around 30hz, and drivers come in a bit more than $345 total.

Ported F3 (and tuning) of 27hz works just fine for me, ported tuned F9 of 27hz is a little lean for me.

I can confirm that two 18s in a PPSL box are heeeaaaavy :eek: lol

I think mine weigh about 15stone each!
 
Slight update, a friend of mine owns a night club and has a Crown K2 amp that he is willing to give me at no cost. I realize this is a dinosaur but do you think it is something that could be used to run one or two subs? Guessing I would need to get some sort of dsp like miniDSP or the likes...
 
Slight update, a friend of mine owns a night club and has a Crown K2 amp that he is willing to give me at no cost. I realize this is a dinosaur but do you think it is something that could be used to run one or two subs? Guessing I would need to get some sort of dsp like miniDSP or the likes...

The Crown K2 was one of the darlings of one of the pro-amps as home audio amps crazes a few years back. They're supposed to not only provide a lot of power, but sound good doing it. You've a good friend to be given one of those.

Anyways, yes, it should be a great amp for sub duty with plenty of power for one HST-18 or two of the other drivers mentioned in the thread. Many pro amps suffer from high pass filters unusuably high for sub duty, but the K2 is spec'd at third order at 8Hz which is just about perfect if you're not one of us nuts who chose the single digit stuff. Plus, Crowns are known for reliability; something which cannot be said of Behringers and other budget brands. (I have three Behringer amps and only one is still working. Terrible reliability even for home use.)

A miniDSP is a good idea regardless what amp you choose, but do keep an eye on what type you'll need. I had insufficient gain out of an unbalanced miniDSP 2x4 to drive a pro amp when I tried it and required a signal booster of sorts to make it work.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.