Is that I do not need the spectrum analyzer, I hear these deep notes perfectly (not 16 hz, of course)
It is beyond my poor powers of explanation to reply your reply in any productive manner. Except to suggest you try a real-time analyzer, just in the odd chance you hear not as "perfectly" as you think you do. Just a thought, eh.
Is that I do not need the spectrum analyzer, I hear these deep notes perfectly (not 16 hz, of course)
Ben
You don't need that much power for home use, try the smallest one they make, I think it's called the NU1000DSP. I doubt you can build one for less money nor have the DSP feature.
You don't need that much power for home use, try the smallest one they make, I think it's called the NU1000DSP. I doubt you can build one for less money nor have the DSP feature.
Thank you
, this model offers everything I need and more ......Just a doubt, and I ask again all those who can explain this to me:
The higher the load in class AB, the lower power.
Is it the same in class D?
Or put another way, can I connect my vintage JBL 8 ohms nominally without problems? Can I even increase the load with high heat dissipation resistors to reduce the risk of damaging the speakers? (This increases the distortion, but at these frequencies I do not think they are audible)
I am going to consult the seller (they are not usually very technically informed) so I would like to clarify the point with people of this forum, thanks again !
Behringer Inuke Nu1000dsp Potencia 1000w - $ 9.310,00 en Mercado Libre
Amps operate according to their internal voltage level (and sort of secondarily for present purposes, on the current in storage internally).
So if they have say, 30 volts (sort of RMS....), that's all they can pump out (assuming for present purposes that they don't run out of current).
If you connect a 4-Ohm load, they can produce, so to speak, 30 volts into 4 Ohms which is 225 watts, let's say.
if you connect an 8-Ohm load, that's 30 volts into 8 Ohms or 112 watts*.
Not the whole story but enough of the story for the amp for a generic answer.
But what the driver produces as sound output is a partly different story.
Ben
*a speaker with 1% efficiency would soon destroy your hearing at 112 watts input
You don't want to add a resistor in the cirquit of a sub. A subwoofer in its frequency band will have an impedance that can vary from 4 ohms to 120 ohms, so a resistor will create a highly unlinear voltage divider.
You generally want the sub to be connected directly to the amp for maximum damping factor and control.
The iNuke has level controls, so turn down the senitivity so you can reach you max listening level and then some. That'll keep the damage potential down.
Johan-Kr
You generally want the sub to be connected directly to the amp for maximum damping factor and control.
The iNuke has level controls, so turn down the senitivity so you can reach you max listening level and then some. That'll keep the damage potential down.
Johan-Kr
Grrrrrrr ........
there seems to be mutiny on board, WAF does not agree to keep spending money on these things and claims that I pay attention to their needs ......
Of course, how can I explain to her that I want to hear the first two octaves that I am missing after two years of building the best speaker in the world ?
It does not matter, as she lets me do it, but without investing more money in my "obsessive maniac", I return to the previous idea of using the junk that I have thought about this.
(See post 19 of this thread)
Comments ? Some major disadvantage (danger) that could blow everything up?
I Sorry, Plustek Optic Pro has not yet updated its drivers for Win 7, the last one was for Win 95 ...... I had gotten one in the informal lane for WinXP, but it does not work either plus ....
there seems to be mutiny on board, WAF does not agree to keep spending money on these things and claims that I pay attention to their needs ......Of course, how can I explain to her that I want to hear the first two octaves that I am missing after two years of building the best speaker in the world ?
It does not matter, as she lets me do it, but without investing more money in my "obsessive maniac", I return to the previous idea of using the junk that I have thought about this.
(See post 19 of this thread)
Comments ? Some major disadvantage (danger)
that could blow everything up?I Sorry, Plustek Optic Pro has not yet updated its drivers for Win 7, the last one was for Win 95 ...... I had gotten one in the informal lane for WinXP, but it does not work either plus ....
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Maybe you can use somthing like the Harrison FMOD inline crossovers?
In-Line Crossovers in the Car Audio Department at Parts Express | 405
Johan-Kr
In-Line Crossovers in the Car Audio Department at Parts Express | 405
Johan-Kr
Hi All,
FYI:
b
Hello and thanks for this data, they are very complete T / S.
But there are small differences between a LE14C and an LE14A, so some parameters may be somewhat different.
14C does not have dust cover because it is housed the tweeter in the center, so in practice it has somewhat lower SPL.
But in compensation, the coil is cooled better because it allows the passage of air through the front spider.
This spider is added to the conventional spider located behind the cone, which gives a lower compliance value in 14C. But this helps control Xmax.
The permissible power is double in 14 A? No, what happens is that 14 C specifies the limit that supports the tweeter, 35 watts, but in fact both models admit 70 watts in the twofer because the voice coil, cone, suspensions and pole piece are the same. .
In a pamphlet indicate half to 14 A, it is a mistake. Have you seen the 4-inch flat wire coil?
In those years T / S parameters are not specified.
The efficiency was not standardized 2.83 volts / 1 meter
So 14C says 80 dB to 4.6 meters, if we consider that every time we double the distance the power decreases by 3 db, we have in theory 95 db approx. 3 db are twice the power for the same spl, I find little 92 db with 2.79 volts.
Thanks, but ferrite core causes saturations and oscillations in the frequency, I will not use that ......
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The driver's not meant to be a sub- if you're going to use vintage drivers as subs, make sure you have multiples to get the output and power handling up. A coaxial is a particularly poor choice. Worrying about the filter quality is the least of the issues here, and you don't seem to want to hear what people are saying about it. The power limitation is partially driven by the alnico core.
2213 or 123a are better choices if you must have alnico subs, as they're readily available in multiples and dig deep.
2213 or 123a are better choices if you must have alnico subs, as they're readily available in multiples and dig deep.
Ohhh, Line level could be interesting ....
But that model has the cut-off frequency at 80 Hz (OK) and only 12 dB of slope (-) ....
I'm going to browse other options in Parts Express, thanks
Someone has seen my diagram-solution using the Yamaha 5.1
I can not find more information about subwofer output, only its cutoff frequency is 90 Hz, 4 volt output voltage and have 1.2 kohms of impedance.
Being to feed an external amplifier, what type of filter / slope is used in these cases?
Anyone know?
I do not want to make all these connections and find me that there is very little, first order 6 / oct db, or something like that.
What is the acronym FMOD ?
You must forget the coaxial word. I'll just use the LF section, which has a separate connection, I guess you already know it.
Please read the full thread.
Let me try, as Franky sang, my way.
Same, Thanks for the breath.
25 HZ Fs, 70 Watts RMS power handling, 80 DB / 1W / 4.6 mts. They are not used to reproduce 30/40 hertz at home listening levels ?
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Why so complicated?
Yes, helped understand what you propose.
I'm also planning a sub project, but only due to picking up a large sub enclosure cheap [probably don't need it at all and will prove to be problematic with use due to neighbors annoyance at SPL and vibration through the building issues] but I realised the output of Amp for sub-woofer connection was via selectable crossover... so, less complications in design.
What I don't understand is why you want to do such complex speaker switching [A - B] and Y connections of line level inputs [L + R] and multiple Amplifiers [aside of the sub-amp that is needed unless you use an Active sub-]
You must realise this given your questions relating to; is it safe or, prone to magic blue smoke emission.
Alternative is:
Chances are you could sell all Amps there and buy a better Yamaha Amp where you can select speakers used [2ch or 7 ch Stereo] in the case of 2ch input source, as well as Bass crossover in the case of selecting 'small' for speaker setup that directs LF signals to the sub-woffer output [dedicating more headroom of L & R ch amps].
What you get is;
Safer,
Less OCD fiddling about,
Looks nicer at less cost,
More space for other stuff in the listing room,
....and... Mrs academia50 would be happier because less to look at and easier to use when your not around to pilot the system.
Remember, "LESS is MORE" and, "Happy wife, Happy life" ideology ?
The only addition I recommend is a cooling fan above Amp [mine seems to run hot after high output 5ch use.... Star Wars type material]
My main Amp now is a Yamaha RX-V1700 Receiver.
This plus not small high efficiency speakers is more than enough for this small home unit. Hmm... where will I put that huge sub is the question.
A lot less black boxes and switches and the HDMI switching that has this computer connected to TV and Speakers.... plus the big advantage, selectable Bass crossover settings of 40Hz, 60Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 110Hz, 120Hz, 160Hz or 200Hz for that sub-woffer output. Also sub Phase setting there.
80Hz is the default setting.
What model Yamaha 5.1 do you have there?
Doesn't it have phono input?
My use of phono is very limited now - limited to mono 78rpm type discs.... fully 'over' LP use years ago. In this case RIAA eq isn't really appropriate, rather selectable eq curve suits the huge variation in discs .... so 'line in' levels are used rather than 'phono level'.
Yes, helped understand what you propose.
I'm also planning a sub project, but only due to picking up a large sub enclosure cheap [probably don't need it at all and will prove to be problematic with use due to neighbors annoyance at SPL and vibration through the building issues] but I realised the output of Amp for sub-woofer connection was via selectable crossover... so, less complications in design.
What I don't understand is why you want to do such complex speaker switching [A - B] and Y connections of line level inputs [L + R] and multiple Amplifiers [aside of the sub-amp that is needed unless you use an Active sub-]
You must realise this given your questions relating to; is it safe or, prone to magic blue smoke emission.
Alternative is:
Chances are you could sell all Amps there and buy a better Yamaha Amp where you can select speakers used [2ch or 7 ch Stereo] in the case of 2ch input source, as well as Bass crossover in the case of selecting 'small' for speaker setup that directs LF signals to the sub-woffer output [dedicating more headroom of L & R ch amps].
What you get is;
Safer,
Less OCD fiddling about,
Looks nicer at less cost,
More space for other stuff in the listing room,
....and... Mrs academia50 would be happier because less to look at and easier to use when your not around to pilot the system.
Remember, "LESS is MORE" and, "Happy wife, Happy life" ideology ?
The only addition I recommend is a cooling fan above Amp [mine seems to run hot after high output 5ch use.... Star Wars type material]
My main Amp now is a Yamaha RX-V1700 Receiver.
This plus not small high efficiency speakers is more than enough for this small home unit. Hmm... where will I put that huge sub is the question.
A lot less black boxes and switches and the HDMI switching that has this computer connected to TV and Speakers.... plus the big advantage, selectable Bass crossover settings of 40Hz, 60Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 110Hz, 120Hz, 160Hz or 200Hz for that sub-woffer output. Also sub Phase setting there.
80Hz is the default setting.
What model Yamaha 5.1 do you have there?
Doesn't it have phono input?
My use of phono is very limited now - limited to mono 78rpm type discs.... fully 'over' LP use years ago. In this case RIAA eq isn't really appropriate, rather selectable eq curve suits the huge variation in discs .... so 'line in' levels are used rather than 'phono level'.
Specifications page of the RX-V1700 cite:
L.P.F. (Subwoffer) - 24dB/oct.
Does your 'Owners Manual' for Yamaha Amp have a 'specifications' page with this data?
- Rated Output Voltage/Output Impedance:
- Filter characteristics (fc=40/60/80/90/100/110/120/160/200Hz) :
L.P.F. (Subwoffer) - 24dB/oct.
Does your 'Owners Manual' for Yamaha Amp have a 'specifications' page with this data?
Well, the main reason and explain, I can not spend more money on buying new gadgets, I must solve my concern with what I have, not buy an active subwoofer at this time. Things are very difficult here
The answer is the same. I would not need to change miscellaneous components, just buy an active subwoofer .... but ...
Well, I do not know if I'm lucky here, the lady academia50 lets me do what I want, but do not put my hand in the wallet for audio expenses anymore. She does not care much about music, she prefers to watch movies on Netflix
The blue smoke will not come out, I know everything is feasible electronically. The only counter would be a phantom charge for the front speakers when DTQWTII are used only in stereo. Remember that these are used with the Prima Luna valvular amplifier, but it would be much easier everything .....
I have always used RXV-520 and it has never reheated, I am careful to leave good ventillation space around it. But the amplifier to use in woofers if it has a fan. It is switchable at will, I think it will always be activated when you use it .... Sub bass consume a lot of energy !
Does not bring phone input, are the specs in an earlier link that I indicate to the Yamaha website
I prefer the clean sound and no clicks and pops of the digital recordings, I do not understand people who prefer to listen to noises outside the music because the analog sound is warmer ... I prefer the coldness of the bits
But if I want to continue enjoying my vinyls with all its tones, like the lowest organ pipes.
Thanks for the specs, I already found those of my receiver Yamaha 5.1
I do not know where I imagined 4 volts in output of subwofer .... it is 2 volts standart as the output of CD player, etc.
But only 12 db per octave, this makes the project unviable, we have already clarified in this post that it would be necessary minimum of 24 DB / oct so that there are no components of frequencies beyond the area that I wish to sub bass ... .
Wait for WAF to be in a better mood .... or buy a good gift, and then buy crossover Beringher or Hipex.
At the end of the day, there was no free lunch, not even shared, you have to pay me all.
Thank you all for your patience and good humor.
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