I have a pair of SDX12 subwoofers in ported enclosures that I built myself. They are 23" cubes. More details about them can be found in this thread I posted a little while ago, if needed: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ling-should-i-repair-replace.html#post4883391
I have ordered a replacement driver since one of mine has started to rattle. To prevent damage to my drivers from now on, I have been told a subsonic filter was necessary. However, I use a Crown XLS2500W amp which does not have a subsonic filter.
This is why I made this thread: I am looking for suggestions on a subsonic filter to protect my SDX12 subwoofer drivers in ported enclosures. Subs are tuned to 17Hz.
These FMODs have caught my eye, but I was told to go the Project 99 route. However, this seems way too complicated for me, requiring multiple parts and whatnot.
Note that I live in Canada so if there are stores that ship FROM Canada, please suggest those to me as it would likely save me a lot on shipping.
Please let me know if any more information is required to be able to properly assist me. Thank you in advance!
I have ordered a replacement driver since one of mine has started to rattle. To prevent damage to my drivers from now on, I have been told a subsonic filter was necessary. However, I use a Crown XLS2500W amp which does not have a subsonic filter.
This is why I made this thread: I am looking for suggestions on a subsonic filter to protect my SDX12 subwoofer drivers in ported enclosures. Subs are tuned to 17Hz.
These FMODs have caught my eye, but I was told to go the Project 99 route. However, this seems way too complicated for me, requiring multiple parts and whatnot.
Note that I live in Canada so if there are stores that ship FROM Canada, please suggest those to me as it would likely save me a lot on shipping.
Please let me know if any more information is required to be able to properly assist me. Thank you in advance!
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That depends
Yep, there is that word again. When you model your subwoofer in the computer program, does your sub hit Xmax with the power you are inputing? If so, look at the Xmax below the ported frequency then input filters at different frequencies to see how low you can go before exceeding Xmax.
That really depends on the power. If you hit Xmax at 500 watts in the passband, say 30Hz then it gets critical below tuning. If you are running at say 300 watts and not hitting Xmax, then you can go lower until you do at a really low frequency.
Generally speaking, you usualy could get away with the high pass filter at 15Hz...maybe 14Hz depending on the steepness of the filter etc. If you are running lower power, this can be lower in frequency as there is less power available to push the cone so hard.
A good option is the Mini DSP, it has the filters you need and parametric EQ to get the subs smooth. Other features are delay, phase and crossover functions. The ultimate bass management system and they run around $135 US.
Good luck and model that thing!
Yep, there is that word again. When you model your subwoofer in the computer program, does your sub hit Xmax with the power you are inputing? If so, look at the Xmax below the ported frequency then input filters at different frequencies to see how low you can go before exceeding Xmax.
That really depends on the power. If you hit Xmax at 500 watts in the passband, say 30Hz then it gets critical below tuning. If you are running at say 300 watts and not hitting Xmax, then you can go lower until you do at a really low frequency.
Generally speaking, you usualy could get away with the high pass filter at 15Hz...maybe 14Hz depending on the steepness of the filter etc. If you are running lower power, this can be lower in frequency as there is less power available to push the cone so hard.
A good option is the Mini DSP, it has the filters you need and parametric EQ to get the subs smooth. Other features are delay, phase and crossover functions. The ultimate bass management system and they run around $135 US.
Good luck and model that thing!
I actually don't know how to model using hornresp. I found a guide but it's way too complicated for me. Is there any way I can get one on one help via live chat somehow? If someone can send me a private message and exchange Skype/Discord usernames so we can text chat, that would be very helpful to me. As for your recommendation of a Mini DSP, I am very interested in one, but $135 USD costs way too much in CAD, especially when taking additional shipping and import charges into account. I'm really looking for any solution that works, as cheap as possible.
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There's an active thread in the electrostatic forum about DSP and open baffle subs. Below tuning, your cone movement is about as constrained than an OB which is to to say pretty unconstrained.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/299067-how-good-can-obs-esls-sound-without-dsp.html
There were two kinds of responses: those who thought their systems were already perfect beyond the possibility of improvement and those who have tried DSP and can't understand how anybody would ever build a system today without a Behringer DCX2496 or miniDSP.
Converting your system to an aperiodic port (AKA adding resistance) might be all you need to do.
Many Toronto DIYers were saddened by the demise of Active Surplus, a victim of rising cost of retail space on Queen Street. But some newer places are quite wonderful replacements such as Sayal on Victoria Park.
B.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/299067-how-good-can-obs-esls-sound-without-dsp.html
There were two kinds of responses: those who thought their systems were already perfect beyond the possibility of improvement and those who have tried DSP and can't understand how anybody would ever build a system today without a Behringer DCX2496 or miniDSP.
Converting your system to an aperiodic port (AKA adding resistance) might be all you need to do.
Many Toronto DIYers were saddened by the demise of Active Surplus, a victim of rising cost of retail space on Queen Street. But some newer places are quite wonderful replacements such as Sayal on Victoria Park.
B.
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Thank you very much for your response.
I prefer buying at a store as opposed to online and fortunately I've been to Sayal before, and despite it being quite a long drive it is my preferred option in this case. I was just checking their site for anything that comes up when I search "dsp" but no photos load.
I was wondering if you could let me know exactly what I would need from Sayal? I need one that works in stereo. My current setup for my subs is as follows:
Headphone jack to RCA female > RCA male/male extension > Mixer > Graphic EQ (RCA in/out) > Phase3 (Unbalanced/balanced converter) RCA in/XLR out > Crown XLS2500 (Stereo Lowpass 140Hz) XLR in > subs
Everything I listed after the Mixer is separate to the subs, ie my mains don't share the same graphic eq.
I have never used a miniDSP before but it seems to be a permanent, flexible solution that can be used in as many setups as I need, albeit not simultaneously. Btw, how do I interface with them?
Thank you in advance for your help, and Merry Christmas!
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I have received my replacement subwoofer driver. I am still looking for a recommendation of a minidsp to provide a subsonic filter for my subs. I hope to install my new driver once I get a subsonic filter. Can anyone recommend me a good and cheap minidsp that will get the job done?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Yeah, looks good to me! Just one problem: the only seller on amazon.ca was "Just Launched" so they have no feedback.. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aag/main/r...M46&isAmazonFulfilled=0&seller=A37O0PPQR2TU3M Amazon.com won't ship this item to my address, which I find strange since I bought my Crown XLS2500 from Amazon.com.
They're way overpriced on eBay.ca.. The cheapest I found was $66 but that has $44 shipping and is a bid. I did manage to find it at an actual store though! Canada Computers & Electronics | Pro Audio | Behringer CX2310 - SUPER-X PRO 2-Way Stereo/3-Way Mono Frequency Crossover with Subwoofer Out This is what you recommend as a subsonic filter for my subs in stereo, right? Can I also use it as an equalizer (parametric perhaps?) for my entire setup (stereo) as well as adding a subsonic filter to protect my subs?
Taking a closer look at the behringer cx2310, it looks like it only works with XLR, and the subsonic filter is all the way up at 25Hz. It doesn't seem to be programmable, is it? I think what I need is a minidsp, which is programmable via computer to set a low frequency filter to whichever frequency I choose (in my case, I believe 17Hz) and how steep the cutoff will be. Am I right in thinking this?
The DSP is cheap compared to the drivers you bought.
The cheapest would be free. The "Subwoofer rattling" thread shows you using a physical 10 band EQ. Can you use a computer based eq instead?
I don't know, can I? Is there a computer based eq I can use to add a subsonic filter to my computer's audio? If you know of something, please let me know.
I don't know, can I? Is there a computer based eq I can use to add a subsonic filter to my computer's audio? If you know of something, please let me know.
The simplest would be a player with an eq exactly like your physical unit, but with more bands, e.g. Foobar (which has many plug-ins you can add). I've found this good enough when trying a new driver out (when I've been too lazy to reprogram my DSP).
More complex: you can download some flexible eqs that you can apply to all the computer's output (not just one media player - so it would also apply with games and other software).
I haven't done the latter, so Google and PC audio forums know way more than I do.
Adding port resistance? Is there any strategy that increases in resistance with lower frequencies?
I've never said a nice word about BR boxes my whole life, so somebody else has to evaluate this notion good or bad.
B.
PS. I thought about suggesting a 10,000uF non-polarized cap, but the idea seemed just too ugly to mention, except in a postscript.
I've never said a nice word about BR boxes my whole life, so somebody else has to evaluate this notion good or bad.
B.
PS. I thought about suggesting a 10,000uF non-polarized cap, but the idea seemed just too ugly to mention, except in a postscript.
Wow, I found out that Equalizer APO is exactly what I need. Installed that and after a little experimenting, got a nice subsonic filter with very good protection of 10Hz bass, and no impact on anything above 15Hz. I think I almost wrecked my one good sub while testing when turning off the filter lmao that's how good it works.
Here is my filter: http://i.imgur.com/RvYXsYI.png
I use two to make the cutoff that much more steep. If anyone has any advice for me, namely regarding the use of two highpass filters like this, please let me know
And thank you, hollowboy, for your suggestion. You saved me the trouble of looking for an appropriate minidsp/subsonic filter as well as the money I would have otherwise spent.
Good news. I haven't used APO. Is the filter ALWAYS on? It'd be a shame to blow your sub on the Windows exit sound.
Great. The equalisation you can do with APO seems very much like what miniDSP does, so if you don't need the other features (delay and steep crossovers), you don't really need the miniDSP.
If you have multiple amps, a miniDSP is a pretty sweet toy to get. The delay option is great for simplifying otherwise awkward configurations, like putting a large midhorn and woofer on the same baffle.
I don't know if it's ALWAYS on, but let's be real here.. The windows exit sound doesn't produce enough super loud subsonic frequencies to be of concern to me. Also, I use my desktop on my TV which is in another room by simply switching to projector mode, so I always switch it back to work on my monitors as opposed to powering off like you assumed I did, so that isn't an issue for me either way ^-^
I do have multiple amps, but I've never experienced issues with timing and whatnot. My setup is two 5.1 amps outputting to 5-channels of speakers, and one subwoofer amp outputting to two subwoofers in stereo.
I'm amazed at there having been an option such as Equalizer APO out there all this time without me or anyone else responding to this thread being aware. It's truly an amazing program and I am grateful for having found it. It seems to completely negate the need of any physical device (such as minidsp) so long as, like you said, you don't need advanced features such as delay and xovers.
Different strokes. I'm guessing you are younger and a different sort of listener to many audio enthusiasts. This wouldn't work for anyone:
- whose computers have noisy fans and/or hard drives
- using other sources (vinyl, radio etc)
- who also 'listens' with their eyes (and thus reject solutions that look cheap)
- who has decided they only like the analogue / valve thing
I used to swap records and tapes with friends, now I swap hard drives. Most of my home listening uses an old Toughbook reading a big external drive (no fans / mechanical noise). I mostly listen to ripped CDs, downloads from Bandcamp*, and so on. Finding the physical CD I want to hear now seems archaic - hence this sort of solution appeals to me.
*recommended
I would look for a used MiniDSP. The seller can then mail it to you, and you would avoid taxes and customs charges. If they even bother to ask, youould both say that the seller is loaning it to you for you to program, etc. It would probably just ship with no problem.
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