Okay I have a 2015 gmc denali 1500. It comes stock w Bose door speakers but some songs sound flat. The back seats flip up so there is plenty of room for two subs. I don't want heavy bass. I want very clear sounds. I don't mind a little bass but when you can't even hear the words because of the bass that isn't my preference. Does Rockford fosgate make a system that sounds clear?? What's the clearest, purest sounding sub out there? Thanks
Hi Denali,
Rockford, JL Audio, and Alpine make some great subwoofers. How clean they sound or how well they blend with the rest of the system depends on box type, EQ and gain settings. You need to figure out what your maximum dimensions are under the seats before picking a driver. Before you buy you must take into consideration mounting depth, available box volume, power requirements (space for amp). Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Regards,
Matt
Rockford, JL Audio, and Alpine make some great subwoofers. How clean they sound or how well they blend with the rest of the system depends on box type, EQ and gain settings. You need to figure out what your maximum dimensions are under the seats before picking a driver. Before you buy you must take into consideration mounting depth, available box volume, power requirements (space for amp). Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Regards,
Matt
The alpine both the s and r series are great for the money. I have had a pair of Dayton ref series ho 12's in my car and they are also excellent for the money. For car I always go for small sealed cabinets with a q of between .8-.9 and f3 of 40-50 hz. Seems to work well in most cars with most music.
If "clean" is what you're after, Dayton HO are what I would recommend. I've used the 12" version for a car and the 15" version for a HT sub.
For the car version (toyota camry trunk install), I settled on about 1.7 cuft net tuned to 27 Hz (I tried an port length corresponding to 22 Hz tuning and it wasn't punchy enough). FWIW, If you can spare a bit more space (box of about 2 cuft or a bit more), you can get even better performance.
I also built a test sealed box of about 0.85 cuft that was very clean and accurate and dug lower than the sealed box but didn't have the impact.
Play with winisd and see what you get.
Hope that helped
For the car version (toyota camry trunk install), I settled on about 1.7 cuft net tuned to 27 Hz (I tried an port length corresponding to 22 Hz tuning and it wasn't punchy enough). FWIW, If you can spare a bit more space (box of about 2 cuft or a bit more), you can get even better performance.
I also built a test sealed box of about 0.85 cuft that was very clean and accurate and dug lower than the sealed box but didn't have the impact.
Play with winisd and see what you get.
Hope that helped
The HO's are indeed good choices if you're really after quality. They're easy to work with, as far as I know also very soft in surrounds and spider and the coil gap is pretty small which means less loss of megnetix flux
I have an HFA series woofer myself and I'm really happy with it.
JL audio hands down.
W1v3 series would be more than enough for your needs.
Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W1v3
W1v3 series would be more than enough for your needs.
Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W1v3
Step 1, try decreasing the Bass tone control on your head unit and increasing the Treble tone control.
If that doesn't stop your issue with excessive midbass then proceed to step 2.
Step 2, locate and disconnect the "Richbass" woofer in your vehicle. It may be in your center console in that model, but sometimes it is a module that fits inside the spare tire. This will decrease the amount of bass you hear, and the remaining bass will come from your door speakers.
If that doesn't stop your issue with excessive midbass then proceed to step 2.
Step 2, locate and disconnect the "Richbass" woofer in your vehicle. It may be in your center console in that model, but sometimes it is a module that fits inside the spare tire. This will decrease the amount of bass you hear, and the remaining bass will come from your door speakers.
Regardless of what driver is used it is more important to know how the sub system will interact with the Denali's acoustic signature. For that you must use a calibrated mic and software like ARTA or REW. Once that is known the vehicles acoustic profile must be included into sub's design. To me what you want is closer to what a true high fidelity system sounds like and my advice must be heeded to accomplish.
I installed a system in a 2009 Jeep off road "Mudder" last year. Owner dropped over $20k in it's upgrades. I did not get the choice of what was being installed and the owner turned into a kid in a candy store and just bought what the local shop sold him on. JL Audio. I triamped the system and used a miniDSP 6x8. Tweaked all that I could but there were some major issues like 6.5" midwoofer underdash mounted and 50 degrees off axis crossed to the matching coaxial tweeters he had installed into the pods on top of the dash. JL thought it fine to cross these at 3.3kHz. Today there is a big hole in the upper midrange because I wasn't the one that choose the drivers. He was happy with the end result and I thought it sucked. Outside of the vehicle it sounded fine enough, inside was another matter altogether. The only thing it did well was get LOUD. He did not have enough patience for a final tweaking (or ten).
The store said they would install it all for $250 with one caveat, they could not do active DSP based systems! This was from the best, most highly regarded shop in town. WOW
Also the miniDSP 6x8 was not his first choice. The other active crossover died after three days. Said he had done his research prior to purchase. I discovered right off the rip that it was a POS and many others had the same issue, even with multiple replacement devices. The miniDSP based solution I said to get, had only been on the market for less than a month at the time, is still working like a peach today.
I installed a system in a 2009 Jeep off road "Mudder" last year. Owner dropped over $20k in it's upgrades. I did not get the choice of what was being installed and the owner turned into a kid in a candy store and just bought what the local shop sold him on. JL Audio. I triamped the system and used a miniDSP 6x8. Tweaked all that I could but there were some major issues like 6.5" midwoofer underdash mounted and 50 degrees off axis crossed to the matching coaxial tweeters he had installed into the pods on top of the dash. JL thought it fine to cross these at 3.3kHz. Today there is a big hole in the upper midrange because I wasn't the one that choose the drivers. He was happy with the end result and I thought it sucked. Outside of the vehicle it sounded fine enough, inside was another matter altogether. The only thing it did well was get LOUD. He did not have enough patience for a final tweaking (or ten).
The store said they would install it all for $250 with one caveat, they could not do active DSP based systems! This was from the best, most highly regarded shop in town. WOW
Also the miniDSP 6x8 was not his first choice. The other active crossover died after three days. Said he had done his research prior to purchase. I discovered right off the rip that it was a POS and many others had the same issue, even with multiple replacement devices. The miniDSP based solution I said to get, had only been on the market for less than a month at the time, is still working like a peach today.
If he has a "Richbass" module another common solution is to open it and add polyfil...
I put 3 kicker comp vr/ dual 2ohm vc in the trunk of a big 2000s mercury, the pressure in the cabin felt/ sounded ridiculous. Its been a while since I played around with car audio but kicker products to name one used to get me sound I was happy with. I cant comment on new kicker but it still might be worth looking into.
I browse the used mobile audio from time to time, you can buy some of the older A/B amps for so little now, JL Orion Zapco Soundstream and other top notch makes from the times.
I browse the used mobile audio from time to time, you can buy some of the older A/B amps for so little now, JL Orion Zapco Soundstream and other top notch makes from the times.
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