Modifying a Definitive Technology Subwoofer - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 16th November 2016, 10:59 PM   #1
juliopr is offline juliopr  Puerto Rico
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Default Modifying a Definitive Technology Subwoofer

Hello everyone.. I would like to ask for some advice on which would be the best way to repair and also improve a Def Tech Powerfield 15 sub. The original driver got busted by accident and I was considering replacing it with a Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 unit because of its efficiency (92db), and add 2 CSS APR15 passive radiators to the sides. My first choice was going for the HF version of that sub, but the tech specialist at PE told me to go for the HO version for that box, but no other suggestion or advise so far. The amp is 185 watts RMS A/B. I will definitely appreciate any kind of advice or comments
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th November 2016, 09:04 AM   #2
Dofus is offline Dofus  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
you have checked so it's none of defun techs 75 ohm systems ?
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th November 2016, 03:30 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by juliopr View Post
Hello everyone.. I would like to ask for some advice on which would be the best way to repair and also improve a Def Tech Powerfield 15 sub. The original driver got busted by accident and I was considering replacing it with a Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 unit because of its efficiency (92db), and add 2 CSS APR15 passive radiators to the sides. My first choice was going for the HF version of that sub, but the tech specialist at PE told me to go for the HO version for that box, but no other suggestion or advise so far. The amp is 185 watts RMS A/B. I will definitely appreciate any kind of advice or comments
Sensitivity means nothing below 100 Hz (meaning quoted sensitivity). Driver T/S parameters will determine how well it works in your existing box. Do simulations of the box volume and see which driver is more appropriate for the volume that way. The suspension/compliance will dictate which of those two you mentioned will be better. Most important dimension will be cutout size. Unless you plan on routing a bigger whole make sure whatever driver you find has the same through whole size and make sure you are willing and capable of drilling new holes for T-nuts as I doubt those will be on the same radius and the replacement.
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st November 2016, 11:43 PM   #4
juliopr is offline juliopr  Puerto Rico
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dofus View Post
you have checked so it's none of defun techs 75 ohm systems ?
Hello... no. the driver was a 4 ohm unit as stated on a sticker attached to the magnet.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd November 2016, 12:25 AM   #5
juliopr is offline juliopr  Puerto Rico
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by sabaspeed521 View Post
Sensitivity means nothing below 100 Hz (meaning quoted sensitivity). Driver T/S parameters will determine how well it works in your existing box. Do simulations of the box volume and see which driver is more appropriate for the volume that way. The suspension/compliance will dictate which of those two you mentioned will be better. Most important dimension will be cutout size. Unless you plan on routing a bigger whole make sure whatever driver you find has the same through whole size and make sure you are willing and capable of drilling new holes for T-nuts as I doubt those will be on the same radius and the replacement.
Hello and thanks for answering.. the driver its just right.. a little of filing will just do... but I have something else in mind... I plan to build a box around the original so it will have 1-1\2" walls to accomodate the new sub driver on the front with the right hole and the 2 passive unit at the sides. With this I intend to make the box less resonant no matter if it becomes heavier since this unit will stay put. I just mentioned the efficiency since most subs nowadays ate 82, 86db efficient, so I was looking at this detail since the amp that comes with it is only 185 watts rms Class a/b.
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th November 2016, 12:40 PM   #6
Dofus is offline Dofus  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Sounds like it would be easier to build a new cab from scratch
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Definitive Technology upgrade sc1984 Multi-Way 1 30th January 2016 06:54 AM
Definitive Technology Schematic rjneufeld Subwoofers 3 12th August 2014 11:27 PM
Definitive Technology PF15tl weccjc67 Subwoofers 2 18th February 2013 04:26 AM
definitive technology ampimp Multi-Way 4 1st November 2010 04:27 AM
Definitive Technology drivers help? razageorge Multi-Way 2 7th October 2009 06:12 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:23 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2017 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2
Wiki