Quad Tuba HT Build Log

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I looks awesome but over at avsforum per the overwhelming advice of others I aimed these parrallel to the front wall & yet again the output increase is sensational to say the least. I am going to have to make a video.

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You basically went from 1 pi to 1/2 pi when you turned them around. With my T-TQWT, I did the opposite. I initially had it firing into the corner. The bass was ridiculois. Then I turned it towards the tv for a flatter response. I need to take a current pic when I get home. I did get a new TV for xmas.
 

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Pointing the horn mouths into the corners will create a large amount of room gain in the midbass region. Are you really using this setup as a recording studio?

Because that is not how a studio system should be set up! You want a much more flat bass midbass reproduction so you can actually tell what has been recorded, not what sounds best t your liking. A studio monitor setup is supposed to work like a magnifying glass. Increase the volume potentially but not distort the sound on the tracks recorded.
 
Pointing the horn mouths into the corners will create a large amount of room gain in the midbass region. Are you really using this setup as a recording studio?

Because that is not how a studio system should be set up! You want a much more flat bass midbass reproduction so you can actually tell what has been recorded, not what sounds best t your liking. A studio monitor setup is supposed to work like a magnifying glass. Increase the volume potentially but not distort the sound on the tracks recorded.


The studio is not complete, not even near complete.....

The THTs are for mixing mastered tracks & I have yet to build mains to complement them.

I'm completely revising the monitors soon as well.

The plan is to run the THTs & bi-amped mains on the master channel on the mixer & to use them for facemelting sessions and mixing as to simulate the live environment I plan to achieve for my audiences..

I will rebuild my monitors once I have a measurement mic & DATS v2 on hand so I try my hand at a crafting a very specific crossover using measured driver response & specs in the final enclosure.

I will run the monitors solo on the monitor channel of the mixer, most likely through my Emotiva XDA-2 DAC.

I also haven't sound treated this room but from what I've come to understand tuned membrane bass traps are the way to go but since I am more than likely going to be moving in 6 months I thing the time, energy & money I'd spend on crafting custom traps which will be basically useless in another room would be somewhat silly.

Rome wasn't built in a day & I'm not made of money, so small steps...

-Josh
 
You can get a mic and use REW to do the complete electrical and acoutical measurements to. It's in the manual from REW.

REW and a soundcard are easily as accurate as DATS2.

Put your money where it will do you the most good.

As for bass traps. Use your brain to work the positioning of your speakers and subwoofers first. That will make the greatest bang for your buck. Bass traps do work when they are constructed correctly. But they are not that effective over a wide bandwidth. So you have to do a lot of prep work in your room in terms of placement long before any other mechanical absorption methods are used.

As an example. Using a basement room will greatly increase your bass and low bass output. Normal house walls are effectively not really there as a reflective structure below 30 hertz. A basement with earth backfill is a whole other animal.

Did you take a look at the bookshelf synergy monitors thread?
 
You can get a mic and use REW to do the complete electrical and acoutical measurements to. It's in the manual from REW.

REW and a soundcard are easily as accurate as DATS2.

Put your money where it will do you the most good.

As for bass traps. Use your brain to work the positioning of your speakers and subwoofers first. That will make the greatest bang for your buck. Bass traps do work when they are constructed correctly. But they are not that effective over a wide bandwidth. So you have to do a lot of prep work in your room in terms of placement long before any other mechanical absorption methods are used.

As an example. Using a basement room will greatly increase your bass and low bass output. Normal house walls are effectively not really there as a reflective structure below 30 hertz. A basement with earth backfill is a whole other animal.

Did you take a look at the bookshelf synergy monitors thread?


Interesting to know about REW, perhaps I'm leaning in that direction with a MiniDSP.

& now I know I know to look for having a basement when I move!

Also, I have skimmed that thread, the sheer size of the thread itself is overwhelming but I'm definitely interested in that project. Making the throat fillers may be a challenge to pull off as cleanly as the 2 guys who collaborated on that.

Honestly though, given the many other things demanding my time this spring I fear diving into a somewhat more complicated build such as that horn may be stretching myself too then when my initial pan was simply a MtM bi-amped two way which would take all of 2 days to construct.

I'm already nervous about whipping up Dr280s...

Having said that, the allure of having a completely horn loaded channel on the master channel makes me giddy.

-josh
 
Having said that, the allure of having a completely horn loaded channel on the master channel makes me giddy.

Kramer Giddy up.jpg

I have built or at least listened to almost everything that will make sound. High efficiency is what has always impressed me the most. WHen a high efficiency system is done well it produces a sound that nothing really can compare to.

There is a myth in audio that you can get greater volume by adding more power. Watts are cheap is the catch phrase.

That is very much not the refection of reality.

Loudspeaker motors are extremely inefficient.

Efficiency and sensitivity conversion - loudspeaker percent and dB per watt and meter loudspeaker efficiency versus sensitivity vs speaker sensitivity 1 watt = 2,83 volt box chart - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin

Punch in 90db in the first box and press calculate. You get a normal stereo efficiency of 0.63%. That means that 99.37% of the power into the driver is going into something other than making sound. Want to guess at it?

Heat!

Either in direct heating up the voice coil losses or mechanical losses that end up being expressed as heat or unwanted sound. The back of the cone makes sound, the interior of the dust cap and the spider all have a contribution to the sound. They are small contributions but they are also parts of the system.

Lets plug in 96 db as a representation of the actual efficiency of your subs in their present configuration. Now you get 2.51% efficient. Not very much. Again the bulk of the power becomes heat.

What happens in a normal system is that you warm up the voice coils rather easily. They work exactly on the same principal as an electric stove heating element. Turn on the power and they heat up. And they have a failure rate. To much heat and they let out the smoke and no longer work ( Proves that speakers run on smoke if you ask me! Cuz when you let out the smoke they stop runnin!)

I'm working on a fully horn loaded system at the present that is about 105db/watt. So let's plug that into the calculator and see what we get.

19.9% efficient. That is really pushing it for a broad band system. The engineering and the methods of construction required to pull it off are not easy to implement. But the dynamics are simply intoxicating. And that is the reason why some people are chasing that efficiency monster.

By the way, I don't really like the sound of compression drivers. And I have heard some very expensive ones. My gold standard is a horn loaded high efficiency planar. The closest I have heard to this is a Radian Beryllium domed compression driver. Nice. But not really able to go down low enough for the type of crossover work that I like.

Josh you have the beginnings of a killer system.

Do what makes sense. Even if you have to plan for the future creation of your dream monitors.
 
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I have built or at least listened to almost everything that will make sound. High efficiency is what has always impressed me the most. WHen a high efficiency system is done well it produces a sound that nothing really can compare to.

There is a myth in audio that you can get greater volume by adding more power. Watts are cheap is the catch phrase.

That is very much not the refection of reality.

Loudspeaker motors are extremely inefficient.

Efficiency and sensitivity conversion - loudspeaker percent and dB per watt and meter loudspeaker efficiency versus sensitivity vs speaker sensitivity 1 watt = 2,83 volt box chart - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin

Punch in 90db in the first box and press calculate. You get a normal stereo efficiency of 0.63%. That means that 99.37% of the power into the driver is going into something other than making sound. Want to guess at it?

Heat!

Either in direct heating up the voice coil losses or mechanical losses that end up being expressed as heat or unwanted sound. The back of the cone makes sound, the interior of the dust cap and the spider all have a contribution to the sound. They are small contributions but they are also parts of the system.

Lets plug in 96 db as a representation of the actual efficiency of your subs in their present configuration. Now you get 2.51% efficient. Not very much. Again the bulk of the power becomes heat.

What happens in a normal system is that you warm up the voice coils rather easily. They work exactly on the same principal as an electric stove heating element. Turn on the power and they heat up. And they have a failure rate. To much heat and they let out the smoke and no longer work ( Proves that speakers run on smoke if you ask me! Cuz when you let out the smoke they stop runnin!)

I'm working on a fully horn loaded system at the present that is about 105db/watt. So let's plug that into the calculator and see what we get.

19.9% efficient. That is really pushing it for a broad band system. The engineering and the methods of construction required to pull it off are not easy to implement. But the dynamics are simply intoxicating. And that is the reason why some people are chasing that efficiency monster.

By the way, I don't really like the sound of compression drivers. And I have heard some very expensive ones. My gold standard is a horn loaded high efficiency planar. The closest I have heard to this is a Radian Beryllium domed compression driver. Nice. But not really able to go down low enough for the type of crossover work that I like.

Josh you have the beginnings of a killer system.

Do what makes sense. Even if you have to plan for the future creation of your dream monitors.

Hey, so i was just reading back through this & you offered a TON of useful advice and information. Thank you! Especially for posting the hornresp sim specs for the THT.

I have moved now & have a wired 16'x30' shop at my disposal. I'm very much looking forward to utilizing that space, still aiming to build 4 more THTs.

Just wanted to bump this thread to say thanks really.

Everyone here is awesome. Cannot wait to post some more awesome projects and get some feedback.

-Josh
 
Hey, so i was just reading back through this & you offered a TON of useful advice and information. Thank you! Especially for posting the hornresp sim specs for the THT.

I have moved now & have a wired 16'x30' shop at my disposal. I'm very much looking forward to utilizing that space, still aiming to build 4 more THTs.

Just wanted to bump this thread to say thanks really.

Everyone here is awesome. Cannot wait to post some more awesome projects and get some feedback.

-Josh

You are very welcome.

Hoping you good sounding loudspeakers.
 
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This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.