Hi
Have any of you used a car subwoofer driver in a DIY build I have been looking at some Fi and Alpine drivers which seem to look good on paper when modelling on a spreadsheet programme that I have.
One is the Fi X12 and the other is the Alpine SWR12D2.
Have any of you had experience of these drivers for home hi fi use in a 2.1 system.
The other question is are they ok for down fire as well as front fire.
I am in the UK so I dont have access to all the drivers that you do without paying massive import duty.
Have any of you used a car subwoofer driver in a DIY build I have been looking at some Fi and Alpine drivers which seem to look good on paper when modelling on a spreadsheet programme that I have.
One is the Fi X12 and the other is the Alpine SWR12D2.
Have any of you had experience of these drivers for home hi fi use in a 2.1 system.
The other question is are they ok for down fire as well as front fire.
I am in the UK so I dont have access to all the drivers that you do without paying massive import duty.
This thread might be similar: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/296130-why-not-car-sub-driver-amp.html
Whether a woofer is suited for down or up firing: Resources - Woofer Mount Up Down
Whether a woofer is suited for down or up firing: Resources - Woofer Mount Up Down
Did the calculation but not sure if I should use point to point for xmax or one way.
Its 12mm one way 24 mmpoint to point and 48mm max non linear point to point.
Use the Xmax for which the woofer is assumed to behave linearly. Usually Xmax is stated as one-way; from rest position to peak. For your woofer that would be 12 mm.
I have an upcoming project for which I intend to use an Alpine SWS 12D2 as you mentioned above. All reports I've read indicate it's a fantastic driver, especially when you consider the silly-low street prices (at least in the US). I'm planning something like 2-2.5 cubit foot enclosure w/ ~ 25 Hz port tuning. I'll report back when this happens. This is probably a month out or so.
I'm not familiar with that particular model but I'm pretty sure it would be just fine for home use.
There are valid reasons not to use some drivers in a down firing arrangement, but "the energy will bounce back and damage the cone" is not one of them. This statement is ludicrous.
If you think about it, the cone is the thing that pushes the air and makes the energy in the first place. How could bouncing it back damage the cone?
Sounds like the man at Alpine isn't very good at his job.
This is exactly what you have to consider, in addition to the suspension stiffness. There's a quick and easy formula to determine if a driver is suitable for down firing, but I've also seen people saying this formula is too simplistic and doesn't account for the increased rate of sag over time. Personally I don't use drivers horizontally (down or up firing) if at all possible I keep them vertical.
For this case you don't have to worry about energy or reflections. Think about it this way. If I told you that you can play ping pong against a wall because the energy of the ball bouncing back would break the paddle when you hit it again, would you think I was insanely stupid? I hope so. This is probably a poor analogy but it works - the forces and pressures that bounce back can't be stronger than the original force and pressure, and the cone MADE that original force and power. If the cone didn't break by creating those waves in the first place it won't break if they reflect back.
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