The SI 24" driver works great in a 8 cu ft sealed box, enormous output, the last sub you will need to buy. Very tight, accurate sound. They can rarely be found used, as some owners are upgrading to the new heavy duty version.
You can buy the current DS-4 model which replaced the HT18 as mentioned before.
You can buy the current DS-4 model which replaced the HT18 as mentioned before.
Last edited:
It depends if you have to go up to another sheet of plywood (or other material.) Tolex etc can be expensive for larger boxes.
Big sounds better but is sometimes not practical such as for mobile disco/band use. I made my disco gear the right size to fit in the car while maximising size.
I make my loudspeaker boxes just heavy enough to lift.
That's usually limits boxes to two drivers at 12 inches or 1 driver at 15 inches.
Folded horns are worse to deal with and I can get one 12 inch driver in before the box gets too heavy.
Silverprout, I'm looking to live in my house a little while longer. That and the wife will kill me.
MIKEVO, from what I read and understand a sealed box is smaller. Did I miss something?
I'm really leaning towards these 2 drivers:
HST18mkII 18″ Subwoofer | Stereo Integrity
HST12mkII 12″ Subwoofer | Stereo Integrity
If I understand the fs/Qes the 12" can be used either ported or sealed and the 18 is better sealed.
Are there more factors that I need to consider?
The 18 have 2.6x more emissive surface than the 12.
The 12 overall performance should be vastly inferior to the 18.
Last edited:
The car audio is totally devoted to the brute force power and the efficiencies of impedances couplings are not considered as critical.
No it doesn't. Using it in a box that small is just asking for thermal failure. I wouldn't suggest any less than 15 cu ft as a practical minimum.
Ok, so I have settled on the type of driver 2xSI DS4 18". The price is good and so are the reviews.
STEP 2
I'm going to go the ported route. What is a good way to figure out the dimesnions once I figure out what the volume of the enclosure should be? Like I said I'm going to reference Martysub for the build
Thanks again everyone. You've been very helpful.
And my 2 cents on car audio vs HiFi: some people like their steak medium rare, some like it well done. What's important is that you get yourself a quality cut of meat. It's easy to argue prefference but a quality build is a quality build.
STEP 2
I'm going to go the ported route. What is a good way to figure out the dimesnions once I figure out what the volume of the enclosure should be? Like I said I'm going to reference Martysub for the build
Thanks again everyone. You've been very helpful.
And my 2 cents on car audio vs HiFi: some people like their steak medium rare, some like it well done. What's important is that you get yourself a quality cut of meat. It's easy to argue prefference but a quality build is a quality build.
Using a ported subwoofer, the bass rolls off very steeply below the port tuning frequency, which is why I prefer sealed subs as they roll off slower.
If you run an underdamped sealed box, which will be large/colossal, you will get a flatter response.
However, you will need a driver with massive excursion to achieve high volume levels with a sealed sub, especially at lower frequencies and again a power amp able to hold it all together. Overall the response will be flatter, but with massive sacrifices in efficiency.
If high output, fairly low frequency output and box size is a constraint, then ported is your best option, but be aware of the drive unit below the port tuning frequency losing control, causing over excursion and issues with group delay and phase.
You really ought to roll off the sub with a filter to stop this happening.
Whatever you decide, I'm sure it will be fun.
If you run an underdamped sealed box, which will be large/colossal, you will get a flatter response.
However, you will need a driver with massive excursion to achieve high volume levels with a sealed sub, especially at lower frequencies and again a power amp able to hold it all together. Overall the response will be flatter, but with massive sacrifices in efficiency.
If high output, fairly low frequency output and box size is a constraint, then ported is your best option, but be aware of the drive unit below the port tuning frequency losing control, causing over excursion and issues with group delay and phase.
You really ought to roll off the sub with a filter to stop this happening.
Whatever you decide, I'm sure it will be fun.
900$
An expensive complex tool for the most experienced and competent users (IMHO)
PS : THX for the link
Last edited:
Hi,
Don't you think that a DIRAC correction is the latest ultimate optimisation ?
Many professional studios seems to think about it after done all other possible treatments.
I used Vb=15×Vas×(Qts^2.87) and got 19.55ft^3.
FYI, I am following Speaker Building 201.
What did I do wrong? Also , according to the other formulas the DS4 is netter suited for sealed enclosure. Is thos writen in stone or a guide line?
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.