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Old 5th April 2016, 03:43 PM   #1
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Default Help the Ijit: 99% wood-free sub ?

The wood-free* subwoofer enclosure: has anyone built a successful box for a “big” sub, 12, 15” or larger?

Contest rules:

Box should be “mostly” wood free (wood = ply, hardwood, MDF, etc.)

*A little bit of wood is allowed! You are permitted to make the baffle(s) that the driver(s) mount on because of the need for holding up the weight. Using wood blocks to hold screws, for glue joints, for bracing, etc. is allowed. You are allowed a very thin layer of veneer on the outside for appearance. Aw what the heck, ok we will allow very thin (1/8" or less) wood layers, multiple if you like.



The closest thread I've found re subwoofers was this:


Light as Air Slot Loaded Band Pass Sub


Using foam core, apparently these guys made decent smaller subs with smaller (8" or less) drivers.



Apparently even our resident genius xrk971 has never attempted anything so audacious. Even the intrepid Patrick Bateman has not been heard from; he was last seen under the front dash trying to install a Paraline version of a Klipschorn

Cost of material should be equal to or less than normal sub enclosure material, let’s say $30/sheet for birch plywood which is probably wildly optimistic.

High-tech eschewed. Note that you may use a PC for planning and design. But my goal is a simple box. Even I could design that Expensive exotic materials not allowed. Sorry no carbon fiber, even if it was scrap you stole, er, scavenged from work This most likely disqualifies retail composite boards but quotes being accepted. Hardee board?

Similarly, the materials and box must be within reach of the typical hobbyist. This means nothing more advanced than normal wood shop tools. Sorry boys and girls, but you can’t use a 3-D printer, automated cutting and finishing, or the industrial laser that almost gives James Bond a vasectomy in “Goldfinger.”

Mass: usually people build with not-wood for weight saving; this is ok but not required for this contest. While I want a speaker for indoor use so I could give a rip about weight, the box should be heavy enough that it won’t blow away in a light breeze.

Strength of box: it is not required to be as strong as touring gear; those need to allow the possibility of a 300-LB drunken fan standing on top of the cabs, as well as the inevitable handing abuse by the orangutangs (sorry, “Roadies”) nightly.

Acceptable performance: enclosure ideally is at least as sound-dead as a MDF box; at minimum, no hums, buzzes, etc. during a sine sweep at high dB.

Main design goals: lower cost of materials; equal or better performance (sound proofing) than default woods; ease of assembly.


What I am going to try: I've recently graduated to "horns," or those who have the poor luck to be aware of my endeavors, half-assed copies of Danley Unity waveguides. Next step is to scrap the Frankenclosure (my 2014 sub build), and use the Alpine SWS-15D4 in a "normal" (sealed box) for the 0-100 Hz-ish range. Thus the request for proposal for cheap materials.



Alpine


This is the on-hand driver I'll try. Specs say it only needs 2 cu. feet for a sealed box; bigger is ok. The enclosure only has to be strong enough to not collapse with the weight of the driver or the horn on top (which probably weights less than the subwoofer!)
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Old 6th April 2016, 12:17 AM   #2
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A brick enclosure would meet all of your stated requirements. It certainly wouldn't blow away in a light breeze.

If it had to be portable, I'd suggest re-purposing an existing container, like the pictured wheelie bin.

Put a sack of rice in it to give it some stability, and another on top to keep the lid from rattling. Hard to beat that for ease of assembly
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Old 6th April 2016, 02:19 AM   #3
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Bricks probably would exceed plywood in cost

Thanks for the rubbish bin suggestion! I woud be the first to concede my ideas (and most builds thereby) are trash, but that would be taking matters too literally
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Old 6th April 2016, 03:45 AM   #4
specd is offline specd  United States
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A plastic 15 gallon drum/barrel many times seen on craigslist for sale for under $20. I have several that were given to me free by a dairy farmer who had stacks of empties. Diameter is plenty for a 12" driver and by adding a thin baffle to the top could easily fit a 15" or 18" driver. Those drums exceed 2.0 cubic foot volume slightly, but add a layer of concrete to the bottom and Bob's your uncle.
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Old 6th April 2016, 07:45 AM   #5
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Dipol. Drivers in a rack. Planked by tiles. If.
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Last edited by cumbb; 6th April 2016 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 6th April 2016, 03:23 PM   #6
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Actually Bob's my cousin. And if my aunt had a ---- she'd be my uncle

I've heard tell of the Redneck Sub, which is similar to the above suggestion except a 5-gallon paint bucket is used. I am still working towards a normal-appearing rectangular or cubical box that will sit on the floor and have a 24x24" waveguide on top (same unit, or two units, I'm still deciding...)
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Old 6th April 2016, 04:00 PM   #7
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Concrete has been used as sub enclosure and might be similar in price to birch ply.

Sub Enclosure made out of concrete

Lots of other threads.
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Old 7th April 2016, 06:53 AM   #8
abcdmku is offline abcdmku  United States
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What about making the enclosure out of drywall? You probably would want to use the money you saved woth drywall to buy sound dampening materials
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Old 7th April 2016, 08:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
*A little bit of wood is allowed! You are permitted to make the baffle(s) that the driver(s) mount on because of the need for holding up the weight. Using wood blocks to hold screws, for glue joints, for bracing, etc. is allowed.
This is wrong, the opposite is right, which consists in mounting the driver very tight with the baffle, i.e. coupling mechanically ( and, as I know, the wood de-couples....)and this can be done using the same material as the chassis/basket . Threaded rods & C. can be part of the baffle itself, when you have the ability to cut a metal baffle it should be easy
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Old 7th April 2016, 10:01 AM   #10
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12321596_10209113065809643_4157462773982502846_n.jpg

10" driver mounted in an old rubber bumper from the port next to the workshop with 1" steel pipe for feet. Pretty much bang on 2cu internal volume. Driver screwed straight into the rubber with 3" wood screws. The entire thing stands upside down, has a thin ply top that contains speaker terminal and the ports.

Met everything aside from the weight saving...it's easily over 100kg.
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