Actually a WOOFER is a transducer that you can match directly with a tweeter (i.e. 2-way monitor) and is therefore able to produce low-mid and 4octaves+ with more or less ease.
a SUBWOOFER is a dedicated (specialized) transducer for frequencies below 200hz (80-120hz i would say) that cannot be used directly with only a tweeter. To use a subwoofer in a 2-way config you must use a wideband driver...
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Below 20hz is infra
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infrasound
Is not audible by human ears (but can be felt at high SPL) and is only interesting for some hardcore HT enthusiasts. You can obtain infra with some massive EQ corrections and/or by the use of efficient subwoofers and enclosure designs (such as bandpass 4th order).
and that reminds me that i have a Resonant Engineering 18's XXX waiting in my garage for such project.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That is my RE 18'' XXX
and the small driver sitting aside is not a midrange but a 12'' Dayton subwoofer
Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.68
Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 2.82
Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.55
Free Air Resonance -Fs: 15.60 Hz
Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 482.0 liters
One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 54 mm
Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 86.20 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area -Sd: 1210 cm^2
DC Resistance -Re: 4.2 ohm
Nominal Impedance -Znom: Dual 2 ohm
Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 2000 W
Force Factor -Bl: 18.16
That's funny. A 6.5" that rolls off at 40Hz is not a sub. Period.
Mine? The JBL W1500 as used in the Array 1500 sub. Next? The JBL SUB1500.
Absolute favorite woofer, JBL 1501-1AL. Fs 19Hz. Stunning.
Barry.
Still a pity.
Given the above I would choose a Stereo Integrity HST18mkII
HST18mkII 18″ Subwoofer | Stereo Integrity
Data-Bass
They have even bigger ones (24"), but this one would suit my needs pretty good
That's why I wrote ""subs""
And yeah, I don't consider them to be real subwoofers, but they have audible response below 30 Hz, so they go lower than any other 6" I've heard.
The point I was trying to make to the OP was that asking other's opinions about their favorite subwoofers was pointless without context, kind of like asking "how long is a piece of string?"
A subwoofer that works well for home theater might not work at all with Magnepan panels for example. And I've noticed over the years that people's ideas about what constitutes a good sub is all over the place, some want flat frequency response, some like that hard thumping one-note bass, some like to hear the subs so loud that they shake the neighborhood, some just want to enhance the lower octave to be audible, and on and on.
Mike
They were there!
These are in the PDF file attached to my original post.
WHG
T9922-22
Fs = 24 Hz
Qms = 5.044
Vas = 5.776 cu.ft
Cms = 0.039 mm/N
Mms = 1140.0 g
Rms = 33.92 kg/S
Xmax = 1 in
Xmech = 3 in
P-Dia = 18.49 in
Sd = 267.84 sq.in
P-Vd = 0.155 cu.ft
Qes = 0.441
Re = 0.87 ohms
BL = 18.41 Tm
Qts = 0.406
no = 0.487 %
2.83V SPL = 98.8 dB
These are in the PDF file attached to my original post.
WHG
T9922-22
Fs = 24 Hz
Qms = 5.044
Vas = 5.776 cu.ft
Cms = 0.039 mm/N
Mms = 1140.0 g
Rms = 33.92 kg/S
Xmax = 1 in
Xmech = 3 in
P-Dia = 18.49 in
Sd = 267.84 sq.in
P-Vd = 0.155 cu.ft
Qes = 0.441
Re = 0.87 ohms
BL = 18.41 Tm
Qts = 0.406
no = 0.487 %
2.83V SPL = 98.8 dB
In the late 90s I remember someone got a rebate check from AuraSound that bounced.
That's gotta be frustrating, cashing a $5 rebate check and getting hit with $30 in fees.
The pic was posted on the BassList iirc
My current fav is the Alpine SWS-15D2
There are subs which can move more air, and there are subs that sound better, but at it's price point of about $100, I don't think there's anything that can compete with it for high output and low distortion. Even the Dayton Ultimaxx subs cost significantly more. One thing that helps a lot is that the Alpine is available from hundreds of retailers, so it's quite affordable to ship. Mine came from an online retailer located just 40 miles from my house, so the driver showed up in less than 48 hours.
There are subs which can move more air, and there are subs that sound better, but at it's price point of about $100, I don't think there's anything that can compete with it for high output and low distortion. Even the Dayton Ultimaxx subs cost significantly more. One thing that helps a lot is that the Alpine is available from hundreds of retailers, so it's quite affordable to ship. Mine came from an online retailer located just 40 miles from my house, so the driver showed up in less than 48 hours.
No, that "thing" is a definite leak in your finances....
I use a XLS12 (Peerless) in my sub... big disadvantage: it was designed to work with a passive unit. So I had to use passive compensation for the time being.
In future I hope to convert the unit into a MFB type sub.
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Now you got me thinking.
I'm planning to build two sealed subs with Dayton ultimax 15 drivers. They are not in stock yet on parts express and imported to Norway they will be almost twice the price of the Alpine drivers.
Have you tested both Ultimax and the SWS-15D2? Are there a big difference in performance?
The SWS-15D2 would visually go well together with my Klipsch main speakers, if it weren't for that ugly Alpine logo.
I am using a Fane 18-600WRMS sub in a sealed box.
My ported box has a Pyle 21-1000WRMS sub.
I have a half folded horn with a Fane 12-500WRMS driver.
Just built a half folded horn Fane 15-400WRMS speaker.
My ported box has a Pyle 21-1000WRMS sub.
I have a half folded horn with a Fane 12-500WRMS driver.
Just built a half folded horn Fane 15-400WRMS speaker.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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