High SPL bass section for Wakeboard boat

Glad my shoot from the hip driver suggestion worked out for you mn. sorry the first bath showed up damaged, but I'm glad you came out on top.

Yea it worked out real well. I really don't think we could have chosen a better suited driver. I am not sure if you are aware but they also stringently test for harsh environment survival, which is great for use in a boat.

I contacted their US rep and this is what he had to say bout their products

"Page 16 of our Company Profile, which is downloadable on line from our website at http://www.faitalpro.com/downloads/files/documents/FaitalPRO_Company_Profile.pdf

you will see the rigorous testing each and every product we manufacture must endure and remain 100% operational, these include; accelerated life test from UV, mold, mildew, sand, salt, Ocean or saline fog air, shock, trauma, extreme temperature conditions from minus 40 degrees C to positive 90 degrees C, unshiftable gaps to prevent voice coil rub and need for reconing of components and combinations of the same above along with 100% waterproof cones, not weather resistant, waterproof.

Our products are installed for many years at F1 Race Tracks, Football Stadiums, Concert Halls, Baseball and Soccer Stadiums, Ski Slopes, Water Parks, On Marine Vessels, Emergency Evacuation Systems in highway tunnels in Europe, now working with many Consultants for outdoor trains stations and platforms, Houses of Worship, etc.

These products were brought to market not as another line of professional audio components but as the "New Breed" of professional audio components that can and do operate anywhere audio reproduction is required and operational when called upon for the same."​

They definitely appear to be quality drivers. Time will tell how well they hold up
 
A few pictures
 

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This project turned out real well. The box hits hard and low enough for me. With the space I had I really don't think it could have gone better. I had already buit the box by the time I read the most recent advice about adding damping material. But Yea it is exactly 25 inches.

I've settled on about 120hz for a crossover. Any higer than that and it doesn't sound good. So that might be the result of the resonances. With the 120hz crossover it sounds great though. Lots of chest pounding base. Beter than I have heard in a wake boat. I'm happy with it.

I built the box out of .75 inch baltic birch and covered it with truck box lining for waterproofing. I'll try to post up some pictures.

Many thanks to everyone who helped. I could not have done this otherwise.

Have you been driving it hard with some demanding material?
There was a track that blew the JLs? Obviously go easy on them with it, but how
does it sound?
 
Have you been driving it hard with some demanding material?
There was a track that blew the JLs? Obviously go easy on them with it, but how
does it sound?
Yea it's funny you ask that. I was pretty carful with that song on the new subs at first. I think earlier I said the song was "get low" but it was actually "drop it low" by Ester Dean / Chris Brown. It's got a pretty demanding base line.

I've now have given it a good test with that song and it sounds great. The new subs create so much more sound. The old setup was a single Jl13w6 and it sure shook the boat but not much sound. But I don't really think it was the falt of the sub. I had it in an undersized sealed box, then that box was placed in an enclosed storage locker with a 10 inch round hole to vent into the cabin.

This new design is so much better as it basically fires right into the cabin.

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HAha thanks for starting things off just a guy. I was posting exclusivly from my yesterday so I couldn't back my claims up (fact I'm still on my phone).

Bottom line, the 1030hp has very generous xmax of 12mm, a 4" coil with 1000w aes rating, insanely small VAS (less than half that of the epics, denoting it is *MUCH* better suited for limited space vented applications than the the epic 12), and a moderately high fs and efficiency.

You have to do a fair comparison, the 1030HP spec sheet shows that the 12.45mm Xmax rating is at Xmax70 and here are the real numbers computed from the winding depth of 28.9 and the gap height of 12mm:
Xmax = (28.9-12)/2 = 8.45mm
Xmax70 = 8.45 + .3*12 = 12.05 mm
Xmax50 = 8.45 + 6 = 14.45 mm
Xmech = 20.5 mm

The TC Epic 12 numbers are:
Xmax = 18.1mm One Epic 12 has VD equal to two 1030HPs
Xmax70 = 22.9mm
Xmech = 32.7mm

He could have tuned to 30-35 with the Epic 12s and still have excellent SPL levels, because the tuning is below the 1030HPs Fs the response sags in the bass, it is an extended bass shelf and for equal power the SPLs from 40Hz up are equal if not better at 500W input from the Epic 12. The Epic with 1000W into the pair has much more margin on displacement given the much greater VD.

Here are the numbers for the Infinity W1260:
Xmax = (34 - 8)/2 = 13 mm as published
Xmax70 = 13mm + .3 * 8 = 15.4 mm
Xmax50 = 13mm + .5*8 = 17mm

Even the Infinities simulate very well having some peaking right in the passband where it helps with output and they have far more VD than the 1030HP so these can also handle a 30 - 35 Hz tuning even with 1000W input. I don't suggest them given their non-conductive voice coil former.
 
You have to do a fair comparison...

The Epic with 1000W into the pair has much more margin on displacement given the much greater VD.

Absolutely, you have to do a fair comparison. In this design (as shown in post 99 at 1600 watts to the pair) the TC Drivers would be into heavy power compression or outright thermal failure with demanding media signals. This design doesn't need high excursion drivers, it needs high power handling drivers.

There are applications where the TC drivers would be the better choice, this is not one of them.

I thought this was already covered months ago...

And besides, if the published specs are based on Klippel results there's no need to do the coil/gap geometry math, the Klippel report will be more accurate.
 
Not to mention, the much stiffer suspension of the hp1030, and lighter cone mean that excursion will be lower on the 1030hp above tuning frequency.

I'd suspect if he'd dropped a pair of epic 12s in there he would have a thermally roasted paperweight (he doesn't have any way to remove the drivers) right about now.

He did not blow the jl because of excursion demands IIRC. It was thermal.
 
If you can actually see a cone through the small hole you don't need any equipment. Just use a free frequency generator and step through the frequencies one by one and see what frequency the cone moves least, that's your tuning frequency. If you can't see the cone at all maybe you can stick a finger in there and feel it.
 
And besides, if the published specs are based on Klippel results there's no need to do the coil/gap geometry math, the Klippel report will be more accurate.

"if the published specs are based on Klippel results "

_If_ that is the key word here, why don't you read the data sheet and see that it is in _fact_ calculated in the data sheet, not measured in any way.
Your post is based on wishful thinking speculation.

His claim of 12mm Xmax is also wishful thinking, it is in reality 8.5 mm.
 
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I know you've already built the box, but here's an idea if someone else is reading the thread:

In car audio, I've found that you can basically use the entire car cabin as a quarter wave resonator. For instance, I've seen people hit upwards of 140dB with a single eight inch woofer by carefully placing it in the car.

In this scheme, the LOCATION on the boat is more critical than the subwoofer itself.

This will take some trial and error obviously. But I have a hunch that the optimum location for the sub is likely somewhere INSIDE the cabin, not out. Basically use the boat itself to horn load the bass.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Taken to an extreme, you could cut a hole in the hull and make a manifold like this :)

Then again, my Dad's boat sank, so you might not want to take advice from me ;)
 
If you can actually see a cone through the small hole you don't need any equipment. Just use a free frequency generator and step through the frequencies one by one and see what frequency the cone moves least, that's your tuning frequency. If you can't see the cone at all maybe you can stick a finger in there and feel it.
I finally had a chance to do this. I know it's years later but if anyone is still interested the frequency with the least movement was 39 Hz

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If you built this that you simulated in #75 then tuning is right on:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/271602-spl-base-section-wakeboard-boat-8.html#post4302192

Or did you build something else?

Yes I built what was simulated in #75, so it looks like the tuning is dead on. Hornresp is a pretty impressive tool.

As an update for anyone interested, the Faital Pro drivers (12HP1030) have stood up excellent. I have 3 summers on this system of pretty demanding use with zero issues. I have been feeding them 1KW with a highpass filter set at 30Hz. The comparatively higher tuning of this box works pretty well in a boat which is basically an open environment. On some material I miss the lack of sub 40Hz output, but given the environment and the abundance of output above 40Hz, I feel it has been a good trade off.