If you must use them, then I think your proposal to use them as high as possible is sensible.
I would test them thoroughly in the 70+Hz range before going into a commitment such as a gig - as once you start that, you cant stop!!!
I think afa has a point worth thinking over, the OEM kits I have used either came as pretty much drop in, or as with the Beyma kit all the materials and some pretty straight forward instructions.
I would test them thoroughly in the 70+Hz range before going into a commitment such as a gig - as once you start that, you cant stop!!!
I think afa has a point worth thinking over, the OEM kits I have used either came as pretty much drop in, or as with the Beyma kit all the materials and some pretty straight forward instructions.
I didn't understand what exactly did he mean. Dampening edge?
From what i have seen it's dry. It's just pure cloth with nothing on it. When you put your finger on the thing you can feel it has got nothing on.
I will test them as kickers first yes.
EDIT: New reply from RCF. The guy inderstood me wrong. He taught i was talking about the spider and told me that the priginall rcf cloth surround looks different then what he sees in the video. And that's true yes. This one seems to look a bit different.
From what i have seen it's dry. It's just pure cloth with nothing on it. When you put your finger on the thing you can feel it has got nothing on.
I will test them as kickers first yes.
EDIT: New reply from RCF. The guy inderstood me wrong. He taught i was talking about the spider and told me that the priginall rcf cloth surround looks different then what he sees in the video. And that's true yes. This one seems to look a bit different.
And you can buy them all from Speaker Parts and Repairs Brisbane :: Queensland Speaker Repairs who gets them from all the manufacturers (in China and America)
to see if your surrounds are pre treated try blowing through them ... ie pucker up, kiss the surround then blow...easy to do.. not treated.., hard to do.. treated..,
Yes i will do that toninght when i get to the club just to check.
But take a look at the video again. Take a listen. Hear how the repaired one is more ringy because it has more movement? Event when you are looking at it. It moves more then the reconed one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CJxea-7Ftw&list=UUmkR-6Xcfgf2wqiSXCv_4Fw
That's right. One is a half roll and the other one is shape like the spider looks. It feels nice and sturdy. I think it will be working well after i coat it. I will check tonight to make sure it wasn't coated from the factory and then i'll order the coating material. But damn i'd like to find one that dries black.
Here is the exact recone kit that he used for one driver he was reconing:
RCF L18S800 DIY Recone Kit 8 Ohms - Speaker Exchange
I saw the box, it looked like this one. And the cone looks the same as this one. This is the genuine RCF recone kit right?
RCF L18S800 DIY Recone Kit 8 Ohms - Speaker Exchange
I saw the box, it looked like this one. And the cone looks the same as this one. This is the genuine RCF recone kit right?
Here is the exact recone kit that he used for one driver he was reconing:
RCF L18S800 DIY Recone Kit 8 Ohms - Speaker Exchange
I saw the box, it looked like this one. And the cone looks the same as this one. This is the genuine RCF recone kit right?
Yes that is the real deal, used the same one myself, which is why I questioned the use of a voice coil by RCF, because I have never heard of RCF providing voice coils...BUT sometimes aftermarket suppliers and repairer's of voice coils can do better jobs than the original manufacturers because they don't have the same time restraints as the original manufacturers
RCF L18S800 DIY Recone Kit 8 Ohms - Speaker Exchange
I saw the box, it looked like this one. And the cone looks the same as this one. This is the genuine RCF recone kit right?
Yes that is the real deal, used the same one myself, which is why I questioned the use of a voice coil by RCF, because I have never heard of RCF providing voice coils...BUT sometimes aftermarket suppliers and repairer's of voice coils can do better jobs than the original manufacturers because they don't have the same time restraints as the original manufacturers
Well honestly i'm not sure how he got the coil, did he get the coil or he winded it up himself. But he did a good job with the coil. Literally out of 10 audio tehnicians in the city all 10 told me, he is the best. Driver is going to run like new after hi winds it up again. But because of things like these and because the recoiled one is working better. New cone, nice, stiff, agile. This was the last time i gave a driver for a repair. Next time, recone and recone only.
Now i', just going to try and find a cloth surround coat that dries black and put some on my surrounds.
No, do NOT use "paint".
No, do NOT use "glue".
Do not. Do not. No, no, no.
Think I explained how to do it and make it look good, assuming you do not have black doping compound. Please re-read that.
The coatings that are sold for the purpose look white in the bottle but dry clear and flexible.
ONLY USE THE PRODUCTS EXPRESSLY MADE FOR THIS APPLICATION.
(even then there are different viscousities and stiffnesses when dry. But you can put multiple layers of a slightly less stiff coating and build it up)
The way to figure out if you have used enough (or too much) would be to check the Fs vs. a few known good drivers, and expect that unless you have run some break-in to make the spider as compliant as a used driver that the expected Fs is higher. Also you want to check the Fs and T/S params before and after treatment. This is not difficult to do, the methods are published online and in books. It takes less than 15mins to test T/S params once your bench is set up for the job.)
No, do NOT use "glue".
Do not. Do not. No, no, no.
Think I explained how to do it and make it look good, assuming you do not have black doping compound. Please re-read that.
The coatings that are sold for the purpose look white in the bottle but dry clear and flexible.
ONLY USE THE PRODUCTS EXPRESSLY MADE FOR THIS APPLICATION.
(even then there are different viscousities and stiffnesses when dry. But you can put multiple layers of a slightly less stiff coating and build it up)
The way to figure out if you have used enough (or too much) would be to check the Fs vs. a few known good drivers, and expect that unless you have run some break-in to make the spider as compliant as a used driver that the expected Fs is higher. Also you want to check the Fs and T/S params before and after treatment. This is not difficult to do, the methods are published online and in books. It takes less than 15mins to test T/S params once your bench is set up for the job.)
Well really that is what you should be doing with these anyway, combining difference sub types together rerely produces more output. But I really don't see you safely using these without getting the surrounds doped, you risk completely destroying all the drivers again.
And how are these boxes processed and powered? By the sounds of it they are grossly overpowered or the DJ is pushing the system into solid limiting for extended periods of time(wouldn't be a surprise). Either way you need to get some way of reducing the long term average power to them or you'll be doing a lot of reconing.
I think the solution is pretty straight forward. Buy the product made for this purpose as I linked above, apply it as shown in the video also above. If having black surrounds is THAT important, you can likely add concentrated black dye to the glue safely. I'd test it in a small mixture and see how it dries before mixing the whole bottle and putting it on a speaker, but I suspect it will work fine.
Don't worry so much about FS or Qms because
1. The recone kit was made intending for this kind of treatment to be applied
2. You don't have a choice. You can't effectively use a driver with a permeable surround.
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