Hey everyone,
Talked to my friend about putting together a party system for his house and did a quick experiment with the Dayton PA460 18" woofer. Looks like a steal with 98.5 dB sensitivity and low Qts (.27) but EEK only 6mm Xmax??
*WinISD Experiment*
WHOA. 150 liter box tuned to 40Hz and the sim (although probably slightly optimistic) says ~122 dB from 50 - 100! and thats just tapping 6mm Xmax at 325 Watts! Now If only I can experiment with high-passing and boosting EQ at Fb and get it FLAT to 40
Now for $200 plus a sheet and a half of some 3/4 Arauco, that seems like some SERIOUS low end! Throw in an iNUKE 3000DSP and some Jbell HS12's (PA310 & Selenium D220 loaded) and it sounds like a party (Don't you love spending other people's money!)
Back to reality for a moment, heres the question. With a single 8" port, WinISD gave me a length of 10". Does that nearly square (l x d) port dimension cause response problems? Would I be better off with the 4 x 4" by 13" long ports as an alternative? Either way port velocity maxes at 14 m/s.
Thanks guys. Just looking for a maximum simplicity build so if I can get away with a single 8" port, LET THE CANNON LIVE!
Talked to my friend about putting together a party system for his house and did a quick experiment with the Dayton PA460 18" woofer. Looks like a steal with 98.5 dB sensitivity and low Qts (.27) but EEK only 6mm Xmax??
*WinISD Experiment*
WHOA. 150 liter box tuned to 40Hz and the sim (although probably slightly optimistic) says ~122 dB from 50 - 100! and thats just tapping 6mm Xmax at 325 Watts! Now If only I can experiment with high-passing and boosting EQ at Fb and get it FLAT to 40
Now for $200 plus a sheet and a half of some 3/4 Arauco, that seems like some SERIOUS low end! Throw in an iNUKE 3000DSP and some Jbell HS12's (PA310 & Selenium D220 loaded) and it sounds like a party (Don't you love spending other people's money!)
Back to reality for a moment, heres the question. With a single 8" port, WinISD gave me a length of 10". Does that nearly square (l x d) port dimension cause response problems? Would I be better off with the 4 x 4" by 13" long ports as an alternative? Either way port velocity maxes at 14 m/s.
Thanks guys. Just looking for a maximum simplicity build so if I can get away with a single 8" port, LET THE CANNON LIVE!
The only reason I wanted to stay away from a slot port was because with a slot width of at least 18-20 inches I would need at least a 3 inch height to stay away from that a unfavorable aspect ratio and at that point I was so low on port velocity it seemed like it was eating up box volume that I didn't have to.
How much sound comes from the driver cone opposed to the port? If planning on wall/corner loading is it favorable to have both driver and port on the same side of the box?
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How much sound comes from the driver cone opposed to the port? If planning on wall/corner loading is it favorable to have both driver and port on the same side of the box?
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I wasn't looking for extra output overall, just had see other builds and read about using a HP filter to protect from over excursion and a parametric boost at excursion minima to drop the low corner.
However now that I think about it, if I were to limit the sub channel to 41.5 volts (325W Xmax) wouldn't that make this boosting impossible? If excursion is down to ~1-2mm at Fb at 41.5 volts and I wanted to get more output there with EQ, the limiter would stop anything over 41.5 volts correct?
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However now that I think about it, if I were to limit the sub channel to 41.5 volts (325W Xmax) wouldn't that make this boosting impossible? If excursion is down to ~1-2mm at Fb at 41.5 volts and I wanted to get more output there with EQ, the limiter would stop anything over 41.5 volts correct?
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That is a fair enough point haha. I guess I've gotta stop looking for free SPL! =(
Still happy with the results for the goals (super simple and cheap) will have to sim some better drivers and run them by the future owner!
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Bump the box size up from 150 to around 180-200 litres and alter the ports to keep the 40Hz tuning. Hey presto more 40Hz!Hey everyone,
*WinISD Experiment*
WHOA. 150 liter box tuned to 40Hz and the sim (although probably slightly optimistic) says ~122 dB from 50 - 100! and thats just tapping 6mm Xmax at 325 Watts! Now If only I can experiment with high-passing and boosting EQ at Fb and get it FLAT to 40
I almost always go for triangular corner ports cause they brace the box, balance the air load and they just look so pretty
And yes always high pass at around 38 but can go down to 35 if you're corner loading.
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p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line-height: 120%; } Maybe you need some more inspiration.
Take a look at these guise: speakerplans.com
You asked for a kind of Party PA,.... this people are not crazy, if you ask them exaltedly what you need, you will get good answers.
Bass is some kind of religion you can proof.
Better Drivers good idea.
BR is an good concept and easy to calculate, but there are so much more out there, may be more effective.
If you think, you are going to upgrade anyway, better think about an concept first, and choose a common used speaker of the pros, so you can use tested enclosures (Plans) more easy.
DIY... good Speakers and plenty of Wood, Watts are cheap, you are going to feel the bass.
Take a look at these guise: speakerplans.com
You asked for a kind of Party PA,.... this people are not crazy, if you ask them exaltedly what you need, you will get good answers.
Bass is some kind of religion you can proof.
Better Drivers good idea.
BR is an good concept and easy to calculate, but there are so much more out there, may be more effective.
If you think, you are going to upgrade anyway, better think about an concept first, and choose a common used speaker of the pros, so you can use tested enclosures (Plans) more easy.
DIY... good Speakers and plenty of Wood, Watts are cheap, you are going to feel the bass.
And also it's where you place the sub(s) that make even more difference than the designs themselves.
So many DJs waste most of the output just using the subwoofers as poles for the tops each side of the stage. It's convenient, but 2 facing the back wall behind you about a foot away is so much louder. If you set up in a corner it's a no brainer.
So many DJs waste most of the output just using the subwoofers as poles for the tops each side of the stage. It's convenient, but 2 facing the back wall behind you about a foot away is so much louder. If you set up in a corner it's a no brainer.
+1
Bump the box size up from 150 to around 180-200 litres and alter the ports to keep the 40Hz tuning. Hey presto more 40Hz!
I almost always go for triangular corner ports cause they brace the box, balance the air load and they just look so pretty
+1
such a drag
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p { margin-bottom: 0.25cm; line-height: 120%; }a.cjk:link { }a.ctl:link { } May help you:
Subwoofer 18
Better use 10 cm tubing for the ports so you are able to change your tuning more easy.
I think ports near the Corners got to be shorter then calculated (if I Rememberer it right )
How big is your space ,
Subwoofer 18
Better use 10 cm tubing for the ports so you are able to change your tuning more easy.
I think ports near the Corners got to be shorter then calculated (if I Rememberer it right )
How big is your space ,
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