Gazzamongo,
Freddi has become masterful at modeling this new Karlflex K-variant with the Freddi-Stub mod .... Maybe we could talk him into modeling a few of your drivers
not a bad suggestion , Freddi has been the master of karlson type cabinets for as long as i can remember
Kind of a shame Karlson & Co. didn't live long enough to see the K15 [8th order BP] get some 'respect'. If only they hadn't used that 'Micky Mouse' looking pipe to describe it the BP/horn and advanced DIY community wouldn't have relentlessly 'thumbed their nose' at it.
GM
The ‘compounded’ super planar version wasnt as good as the paraflex compounded/tapped version in the result of combining two pipes from opposite ends of the bandwidth to which they summed. But maybe it was more of a size reduction/affective results that won in actual application and usefulness? Theres the interaction inside the box to consider? But to what degree that gets represented in horn response as ‘backwave in sound, or pressure is?? What frequency is played to get that answer for a result? Because the sweep isnt music and a pipe wants to be excited at 1/3 down its length to keep an ossilation at best intentionally from a closed end? Which one is being simmed and which is tested? Which is ringing and which might be a helmholtz? Look at a paraflex layout and the two types of them?
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never did a Karlfex. A stub connected to the top of a K-type's front chamber can be useful to tame the potential cavity peak. and reduce ripple and "echoes".
If the front shelf were deleted from K15, it might exhibit a deeper hole after 200Hz. Its a great design overall "as is". When making that size without a front shelf, it may be useful (graph wise) to use something like 23 degree baffle tilt from vertical rather than 30 degree for a more shallow cavity and make the cabinet a bit taller - such as 36 inches tall by 22" or so wide by 16 inches deep.
This K18 was about 41.5" tall with a curved reflector - played really well on all genre of music. maybe it could be cut down to 36" tall for a better aesthetic plus add a wood strip across the bottom. No intentional "stub"
If the front shelf were deleted from K15, it might exhibit a deeper hole after 200Hz. Its a great design overall "as is". When making that size without a front shelf, it may be useful (graph wise) to use something like 23 degree baffle tilt from vertical rather than 30 degree for a more shallow cavity and make the cabinet a bit taller - such as 36 inches tall by 22" or so wide by 16 inches deep.
This K18 was about 41.5" tall with a curved reflector - played really well on all genre of music. maybe it could be cut down to 36" tall for a better aesthetic plus add a wood strip across the bottom. No intentional "stub"
Karlson tweaks
Thanks for the reply Freddy.
As I think I explained to you, the Karlson cabinets I purchased are old and the plywood has started to delaminate, making buzzing sounds when certain frequencies are being reproduced. I intend on making a new set of cabinets, probably sometime this year. So I am looking at ways to tweak the design.
I think I will make the baffle with the port in it removable so I can try different sizes and positions. I recall seeing some K12s (I think) where the port was divided into two positions and were located at the sides of the cabinet. I could also try using multiple holes as ports instead of the rectangular port. Making that baffle curved is another interesting design idea. These things seems like interesting things to try out.
Reducing the angle of the speaker baffle to that of the front wings was something I had in mind. I was not necessarily thinking of eliminating the front shelf because it tends to even out the frequency response. I might make that removable and try different front shelf shapes and sizes here as well, as well as the rear shelf.
Adding a stub to the top of the front chamber is another design feature which could be added.
Retsel
Thanks for the reply Freddy.
As I think I explained to you, the Karlson cabinets I purchased are old and the plywood has started to delaminate, making buzzing sounds when certain frequencies are being reproduced. I intend on making a new set of cabinets, probably sometime this year. So I am looking at ways to tweak the design.
I think I will make the baffle with the port in it removable so I can try different sizes and positions. I recall seeing some K12s (I think) where the port was divided into two positions and were located at the sides of the cabinet. I could also try using multiple holes as ports instead of the rectangular port. Making that baffle curved is another interesting design idea. These things seems like interesting things to try out.
Reducing the angle of the speaker baffle to that of the front wings was something I had in mind. I was not necessarily thinking of eliminating the front shelf because it tends to even out the frequency response. I might make that removable and try different front shelf shapes and sizes here as well, as well as the rear shelf.
Adding a stub to the top of the front chamber is another design feature which could be added.
Retsel
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