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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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apologies in advance if anything sounds vague....
I`m wanting to build a smallish sub to complement my micro system for listening to music. But I`m having trouble trying to decide what to build that won`t be overkill. I don`t consider myself an audiophile but I like a nice clean sound. 1. What kind of curve should the sub have? flat , peak at some frerq., or other? I've looked at various designs but they won`t really tell me anything about the final sound and how loud/effective it will be. being a poor student , I can't really experiment too much so I`m trying to determine what would suit my needs best in advance. Also, I don`t need a lot volume, my living area is fairly small at the moment. The micro system fills it nicely without cranking it up ( except for bass of course. Thanks for looking and hopefully making a suggestion or two. Subs I have to play with are: eclipse 8122.4 12" sub fs: 23hz qts: 0.355 Vas: 8 cubic ft. Z:4 ohm DCR: 3.6 xmax(one way) : 0.177in pe: 150W sd (approx): 550 sq.cm. 91db sens. or: max pentivent 1030 fs: 19hz qts: 0.35 qes: .37 qms 3.6 Vas: 4.6cubic ft. Z:4 ohm DCR: 2.9 xmax(one way) : +/- 4mm pe: 125W sd (approx): 360 sq.cm. 85db sens. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Connecticut, The Nutmeg State
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I would take the Eclipse and put it into a 2 Ft³sealed box. It should work out fine.
With the small excursion of the Eclipse, I would hesitate to put it into a sealed enclosure. However, there does not seem to be a good way to port it without making a big box. The Eclipse is 6 dB more sensitive than the Max Pentivent. That is very significant.
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"A friend will help you move. A really good friend will help you move a body." -Anonymous |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
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Have u decided about which amplifier to drive the subwoofer!
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It's a fruitless endeavor to try and educate a fool that rejoices in ignorance
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Just to put a different slant on KC's suggestion.
As its a micro system with limited SPL capability I'd suggest the Pentivent is a better bet. At low frequencies power handling is excursion limited and it has better excursion, i.e. it will produce more low bass. It will need only nearly half the box volume of the Pentivent, mainly due to the diffrence in Sd causing the diffrence in Vas. The 100W or so of a sub amplifier will be better utilised. Converting your micro system speakers to sealed box may help. A stuffed sealed box with Q around 0.6 will be fine. For the two drivers ~ : Eclipse : Volume = 3.5cuFt, Fb = 42Hz. Pentivent : V = 2.2cuFt, Fb = 33Hz. If a near 0.71 alignment is used ~ : E : Vb=2.5cuFt, Fb=47Hz. P : Vb=1.5cuFt, Fb= 38Hz. The trade off is efficiency vs. box volume and extension, I suggest with a 100w sub amplifier its power that you have going spare. sreten.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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Quote:
I`ll be tracking down that speaker design book thats been mentioned here before. That should help, no??
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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Quote:
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#7 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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There seems to be some contradictions/confusion for me here...
Quote:
I`m assuming the pentivent only needs half the box vol. to what the eclipse needs. Quote:
Quote:
.71 alignment
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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Just to liven things up, I can get an ~2cu.ft. box from a friend for cheap ( meaning free
), that can be vented or sealed.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Saskatoon
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I managed to answer my own questions. thanks for the help.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Theli,
the curve of the vented box you showed doesn't look good - the tuning is too high and there is a bump in the response, so that its response it exaggerated at one point without really giving a significant gain over the sealed box - not a good design. Try tuning lower, closer to fs - more like 23 Hz as a starting point. Get the best looking response, and make a chart showing for your 2cu ft box both drivers vented and sealed. This would enable a better comparison, but it would seem to me a vented box would be the best way to go. All other things being equal, more efficient is better, but this doesn't always help for a subwoofer, as low end efficiency is determined by more than just the nominal efficiency. regards, Paul PS - based on comments above, I don't think a satisfactory conclusion has been drawn as you need to compare on the basis of a simulation that shows the impact all the relevant factors - picking out numbers and comparing them won't really help you.
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Red Spade Audio Blog | Writer for: Hifi Zine S3 Synergy horn + 18" active woofers + T20 horn sub + B&C active surrounds + Custom Acoustic Treatment |
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