Hi guys!
Just acquired a pair of TRIO (Kenwood) 15" woofers (T11-0043-05), and I want to use it in a DIY sub project. Unfortunatelly I don't know any parameters of the driver, and couldn't find any in the internet too.
Maybe somebody knows the driver and/or knows what is the best cabinet for it?! Or maybe somebody knows the parameters needed to design a cabinet?
For the first run I'm going to try to drive it (go active) by a cheap D-class "e-bay" sub amp...
Just acquired a pair of TRIO (Kenwood) 15" woofers (T11-0043-05), and I want to use it in a DIY sub project. Unfortunatelly I don't know any parameters of the driver, and couldn't find any in the internet too.
Maybe somebody knows the driver and/or knows what is the best cabinet for it?! Or maybe somebody knows the parameters needed to design a cabinet?For the first run I'm going to try to drive it (go active) by a cheap D-class "e-bay" sub amp...
Hello,
These do no look like subwoofer material at all, but rather a 1970's high efficiency midbass.
It is simple enough to put together a measurement rig in order to measure T/S parameters. They have inevitably shifted some of time, as these surrounds tend to stiffen up.
If I had to give a rough guess at things, I would do the pair in 8 cubic feet tuned to 30 Hz and EQ a bit, as needed.
These do no look like subwoofer material at all, but rather a 1970's high efficiency midbass.
It is simple enough to put together a measurement rig in order to measure T/S parameters. They have inevitably shifted some of time, as these surrounds tend to stiffen up.
If I had to give a rough guess at things, I would do the pair in 8 cubic feet tuned to 30 Hz and EQ a bit, as needed.
What do you mean by tuning it to 30Hz? Reflex box?
I need some bass fundament since my Lowther DX3 horns lack the low bass. They are fantastic on high and vocal, even mid bass is tight, but for my ears rollof begins at about 100Hz. Maybe my SET 300B amp plays a big role here too. I'm sure the kenwood 15" fed by a D-class amp will give lot more bass than the Lowthers...
Hi,
I agree with the post # 2, subwoofer drivers they are not.
Though I don't agree with the suggested vented cabinet,
its a wing and a prayer approach, unlikely to work well.
My rough guess is they can't be used vented efficiently,
erring on the side of caution than hoping for the best.
Small sealed cabinets for a 15" which bodes badly for
a sub, for what is clearly a very high efficiency speaker.
My best guess you don't want to hear, high Q, high Fs *, poor excursion.
(Its only a guess, based on the most common alignment of such
speakers with a peaking sealed bottom end to do baffle issues.)
They are 30W rms 100W peak allegedly, sounds reasonable.
rgds, sreten.
Simple enough stuff to just measure impedance will ascertain
Fs and Qts** in open air. Same measurement with an enclosing
volume will ascertain Vas, They are the 3 parameters needed.
* It is possible they are low Qts and low Fs used in a cabinet
of far smaller volume than Vas, and thus suited to vented,
but I wouldn't assume that, its not the most likely.
** Qts is derived from the shape of the impedance peak.
I agree with the post # 2, subwoofer drivers they are not.
Though I don't agree with the suggested vented cabinet,
its a wing and a prayer approach, unlikely to work well.
My rough guess is they can't be used vented efficiently,
erring on the side of caution than hoping for the best.
Small sealed cabinets for a 15" which bodes badly for
a sub, for what is clearly a very high efficiency speaker.
My best guess you don't want to hear, high Q, high Fs *, poor excursion.
(Its only a guess, based on the most common alignment of such
speakers with a peaking sealed bottom end to do baffle issues.)
They are 30W rms 100W peak allegedly, sounds reasonable.
rgds, sreten.
Simple enough stuff to just measure impedance will ascertain
Fs and Qts** in open air. Same measurement with an enclosing
volume will ascertain Vas, They are the 3 parameters needed.
* It is possible they are low Qts and low Fs used in a cabinet
of far smaller volume than Vas, and thus suited to vented,
but I wouldn't assume that, its not the most likely.
** Qts is derived from the shape of the impedance peak.
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easy talking
maybe if we move it out of subwoofers and to fullrange, and it may be just about right for a big fast system
sorry, no specs, that's my problem
I have some pics, but drom internet:
the woofers
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the speaker tha features the woofers
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I don't know, if they used to sell DIY speakers.
Here in Budapest there's a shop where they measure speakers for 10 USD. I'll get them there. 500l cabinet is huge!!! I'll try it in a aproximatelly 120l box without bottom, because I have no more room...or maybe a Lukasz Fikus (Lampizator.eu) design, a 50cm x 50cm x 50cm box without back (folded open baffle?)
Here in Budapest there's a shop where they measure speakers for 10 USD. I'll get them there. 500l cabinet is huge!!! I'll try it in a aproximatelly 120l box without bottom, because I have no more room...or maybe a Lukasz Fikus (Lampizator.eu) design, a 50cm x 50cm x 50cm box without back (folded open baffle?)
Hi,
That is quite the most utterly ludicrous advice * I've ever read in all
my (long) time on this forum, an 18 to 36cuft box with no bottom.
I don't need to explain why. How you got there I don't know ....
Easy talking ....
rgds, sreten.
* being plausibly correct rather than just plain completely wrong.
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Hi,
You have the right sort of drivers to do the job, the issue
is sealed or vented and a sensible cabinet volume for either.
If you refuse to measure in any sense your best bet is
sealed about double the volume implied by the PL777
pictures I posted earlier, that is the way it basically is.
rgds, sreten.
The problem is the possible bass alignments, flat or
peaking, and the latter were much more common.
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Interesting. I have the same woofer but it's branded Akai. They are right, it's no subwoofer, just a woofer. No specs, I acquired it in a trade. I used mine back in the 80's with two 15" passives in a coffee table type cabinet with some small bookshelfers. Long before the woofer and satellite system became popular. IIRC, the cabinet was around 5 cu.ft.
EDIT: This is not mine, it's in storage
EDIT: This is not mine, it's in storage
Attachments
so I'll take the driver to the shop where they can make the measurements for 10 dollars, and will be back with the specs. Could you suggest some cabinet than?
Yeah, this basic driver was in all the name brand J.A. Pan Co.speakers at one time or another AFAIK and at least one version had specs surprisingly [not!] very close to Altec's 411, so a T/S max flat alignment would indeed be close to 500 L and the 411 MLTL I did out of curiosity was a ~Vb = Vas, Fb = Fs or ~900 L /18 Hz as I happened to have access to a ~32 ft^3 welded up steel electrical starter enclosure available and it sure didn't perform like it was too big.
FWIW, Altec recommended/used it in 6 ft^3 sealed cabs, so lacking any specs, this is what I'd use to [re]break them in and vent it if it winds up being too under or over-damped.
GM
By the time you get your data your neighbors (watching diyAudio) in the same city go to the shop...
Finally I have the specs of the driver. They measured it with DLSA Pro.
Attaching the sheet:
Attaching the sheet:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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