Sealed or shelf ported box? CV 124

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Sealed is better

Thanx GM
I really wish we had the room for either the TL or the big pipe but we do not
Maybe if we move house or can afford to extend and build a decent sized room those will happen. At least we can afford to pay the mortgage and the house roof doesn't leak

You're welcome!

Understood, nowadays you're way 'ahead of the curve' if the housing market/economy is as bad in your locale as it is here.

GM
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
Care to explain, how have you determined sealed is faster ?

Not what I said

"Faster" as in faster to build, box is almost complete, if I had decided to make a ported box much more time would have been spent running around getting bits such as a port and relevant flared ends and I would have needed to shop for materials. Being smaller I could use what materials I had in the shed or 12mm hobby sheet chipboard from the local hardware

As far as I am concerned there is no such thing as "Fast" or "Slow" bass; there is how-ever a sound determined by the box alignment and I prefer the accuracy of low "Q" boxes when making a sealed box
This is how-ever a WAF rated box and as such a little smaller than I prefer although about twice the size of the car boxes they have been in for the past 10 years.
I hope this clears up the misunderstanding?
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
I just replaced the leaking cap on my pre-amp so I may have music back and I looked there
If I simply buy a decent pre then good EQ will be included.
Cambridge Audio Azure 840e at a decent price and I'm thinking seriously. I won't be using the included sub out function tho, 200 is way too high
 
Yikes! I almost moved 'down under' in '75 because they were offering professionals some pretty sweet incentives and we had a plant there, so wouldn't be starting over, but 'caved' in the 11th hour from familial pressure, though deep down couldn't help but wonder if long term I would have been able to 'maintain' as I did here or ultimately been little more than a tutor to the locals, then 'flat lined'.

GM
 
Not what I said

"Faster" as in faster to build, box is almost complete, if I had decided to make a ported box much more time would have been spent running around getting bits such as a port and relevant flared ends and I would have needed to shop for materials. Being smaller I could use what materials I had in the shed or 12mm hobby sheet chipboard from the local hardware

As far as I am concerned there is no such thing as "Fast" or "Slow" bass; there is how-ever a sound determined by the box alignment and I prefer the accuracy of low "Q" boxes when making a sealed box
This is how-ever a WAF rated box and as such a little smaller than I prefer although about twice the size of the car boxes they have been in for the past 10 years.
I hope this clears up the misunderstanding?

Yep ...
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
Been busy doing other things
Decided that I didn't need /want to rebuild the box in better materials so I have been doubling up on some panels with another layer of 16mm chipboard on top and the MDF for the sides and back is cut. Just waiting on glue to dry at the moment
Tested with a few tracks and it is better than the small box but that is empirical not measured.
 

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diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
I found that stash of 10mm MDF in the shed
Therefore I am double cladding, glueing the MDF over the chipboard I may as well use this before the leaks in roof ruin it all
The boxes now weigh a lot more than the drivers but nice and dead doing the rapped knuckle test This makes some of those panels 45mm thick and the rest 26mm
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
I forgot how much of a power hog this driver is, time to pull out one of the old stereo amps, even so my biggest only has about 200 watts and I'm not sure whether or not the Jaycar Playmaster 3 counts as "Clean watts" it's supposed to be 380 into a nominal 4R load or would my old Inkel amp be better, damned decisions I like the flashing lights on the Inkels faceplate tho
 
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