Hi !
When I search for the best bang for the buck I always fall on old thread with SHIVA or TEMPEST but this subwoofer doesn't exist now in 2014.
These days, what's the best Home theater DIY SUBWOOFER to blow my head
I want high SPL bass how cross all my body!
I have dedicated home theater room size 14' width by 24' deep.
I don't have WAF factor but I don't have the place for 500 liter subwoofer
!
Don't forget the money limitation. Not 1000$ subwoofer please.
If possible available to canada because a cheap 50$ sub in USA cost me around 150$ with shipping in canada
thanks in advance
nicK
When I search for the best bang for the buck I always fall on old thread with SHIVA or TEMPEST but this subwoofer doesn't exist now in 2014.
These days, what's the best Home theater DIY SUBWOOFER to blow my head
I want high SPL bass how cross all my body!
I have dedicated home theater room size 14' width by 24' deep.
I don't have WAF factor but I don't have the place for 500 liter subwoofer
!Don't forget the money limitation. Not 1000$ subwoofer please.
If possible available to canada because a cheap 50$ sub in USA cost me around 150$ with shipping in canada
thanks in advance
nicK
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I'm sorry to break it to you, but you're not going to get "high SPL bass how (sic) cross all my body!" for less than $1000.
For about half of that, in Canada, you can get a CSS SDX12 and BASH 500 watt amp.
Creative Sound - Product Details
The Dayton DVC 15" is pretty close to the original Adire Tempest design (except with a 2" coil instead of 2.5"), and that can be had from Solen.ca.
https://solen.ca/pub/index.php?cata...eau1=1&niveau2=1&niveau3=7&s1=2&s2=1&s3=2&s4=
You might consider doing a pair of those in a sealed enclosure ala a Seaton Sound Submersive.
Best of luck,
Chris
For about half of that, in Canada, you can get a CSS SDX12 and BASH 500 watt amp.
Creative Sound - Product Details
The Dayton DVC 15" is pretty close to the original Adire Tempest design (except with a 2" coil instead of 2.5"), and that can be had from Solen.ca.
https://solen.ca/pub/index.php?cata...eau1=1&niveau2=1&niveau3=7&s1=2&s2=1&s3=2&s4=
You might consider doing a pair of those in a sealed enclosure ala a Seaton Sound Submersive.
Best of luck,
Chris
SI is getting out of the HT market. I'm not sure how many drivers are left. There is a thread on AVSforum about it.
Yes, the Dayton reference or Ultimax subs are also a good choice.
I'm curious to see what PE does on the Ultimax drivers, as the vendor they use one these (Unicorn Speaker) is going out of business. Hopefully, they can transition them to another vendor without issue.
Yes, the Dayton reference or Ultimax subs are also a good choice.
I'm curious to see what PE does on the Ultimax drivers, as the vendor they use one these (Unicorn Speaker) is going out of business. Hopefully, they can transition them to another vendor without issue.
finally I buy !
Finally I buy CSS SDX12 subwoofer with BASH 500 the company simulation in room = 115db at 20hz VB=76 lts closed box hummm ? not in my big HT room
I'm really affraid by the 84db subwoofer. I'm in the HIGH DB school to have punchy and dynamic sound without need 2000w amplifier. BY THE WAY what can I do with this sub?
I can't use winISD with windows 8 always error
Anybody have good online calculator with curve freq to know the best box for that suwboofer in the range of 15-60hz I WANT MAX SPL ! Tapped horn VS Closed VS Ported ?
thanks in advance !
nicK
Finally I buy CSS SDX12 subwoofer with BASH 500 the company simulation in room = 115db at 20hz VB=76 lts closed box hummm ? not in my big HT room
I'm really affraid by the 84db subwoofer. I'm in the HIGH DB school to have punchy and dynamic sound without need 2000w amplifier. BY THE WAY what can I do with this sub?
I can't use winISD with windows 8 always error
Anybody have good online calculator with curve freq to know the best box for that suwboofer in the range of 15-60hz I WANT MAX SPL ! Tapped horn VS Closed VS Ported ?
thanks in advance !
nicK
Define 'high dB' as this one can't even get close to THX reference [115 dB] @ 1m/500 W, much less at a typical listening position without either a lot of room gain [not in my HT either] or a huge bass horn. Even vented dual subs @ 500 W each might not be enough.
FWIW, based on my four 15" HE woofers in ~40 ft^3 [total] cab's performance, four would be required for mine to ensure low distortion @ 20 Hz and eight to get acceptable output below 20 Hz due to having little room gain above ~12 Hz, though hardly exceptionable with some of today's movies having significant output down to <10 Hz.
Don't know of any useful on-line calculators and haven't done a TH sim yet, so might be some help going this route. The UNIBOX program is pretty good and being Excel based might work on Win8.
GM
FWIW, based on my four 15" HE woofers in ~40 ft^3 [total] cab's performance, four would be required for mine to ensure low distortion @ 20 Hz and eight to get acceptable output below 20 Hz due to having little room gain above ~12 Hz, though hardly exceptionable with some of today's movies having significant output down to <10 Hz.
Don't know of any useful on-line calculators and haven't done a TH sim yet, so might be some help going this route. The UNIBOX program is pretty good and being Excel based might work on Win8.
GM
Hi,
'2014 bang for the buck DIY sub-woofer' Less than 1000$ while not exceeding a design Box Internal Volume of 500L'
.. How about 425L, Total Volume less than 500L?+ a low shipping fee?..
Staying within the original requirements?:
If I were in Canada I would immediately grab the: AURASOUND NS18-992-4A at Solen.
Retail price:1,051.32$CAD EACH SPECIAL : 841.06$ Stock:1...
..And put it into a BR(..Where the SI 18 HT 18 Driver performs almost identically..) that would handle a sane 90W Rms input (In room>110dB SPL in 2PI (Sr)) without any HPF. i.e.: No place for wishful thinking of input kW Powers at moron SPL's = IME, at an SPL above that a normal 'domestic' living-room cannot handle without returning awkward room artifacts.
If tested in the suggested BR the Aurasound NS18-992-4A would easily deal with more than 800W Rms (>120 dB/1m) without exceeding xmax at 18 Hz.
XO at 145Hz/BW4 or LR4 if placed off-axis: But if placed at a central position, XO at a frequency >1 kHz is possible. That is if you have a $$$ treated dedicated Room(HT) where a high frequency LP XO is being used for achieving maximum LF SQ.
The distortion at 20 Hz(Cone displacement = ~ 7.33mm of the xmax= 25mm) is very low = ~10% THD dropping below 1% at 50 Hz where the Driver contribution is at most ~25W/~5.2mm displacement. I have no clue of the SI 18 HT 18 distortion that might be blameless as well.
In an f-3dB= 25 Hz BR the distortion at 25 Hz is 5-6% at max if the port is closed but far lower if not.
b
'2014 bang for the buck DIY sub-woofer' Less than 1000$ while not exceeding a design Box Internal Volume of 500L'
.. How about 425L, Total Volume less than 500L?+ a low shipping fee?..
Staying within the original requirements?:
If I were in Canada I would immediately grab the: AURASOUND NS18-992-4A at Solen.
Retail price:1,051.32$CAD EACH SPECIAL : 841.06$ Stock:1...
..And put it into a BR(..Where the SI 18 HT 18 Driver performs almost identically..) that would handle a sane 90W Rms input (In room>110dB SPL in 2PI (Sr)) without any HPF. i.e.: No place for wishful thinking of input kW Powers at moron SPL's = IME, at an SPL above that a normal 'domestic' living-room cannot handle without returning awkward room artifacts.
If tested in the suggested BR the Aurasound NS18-992-4A would easily deal with more than 800W Rms (>120 dB/1m) without exceeding xmax at 18 Hz.
XO at 145Hz/BW4 or LR4 if placed off-axis: But if placed at a central position, XO at a frequency >1 kHz is possible. That is if you have a $$$ treated dedicated Room(HT) where a high frequency LP XO is being used for achieving maximum LF SQ.
The distortion at 20 Hz(Cone displacement = ~ 7.33mm of the xmax= 25mm) is very low = ~10% THD dropping below 1% at 50 Hz where the Driver contribution is at most ~25W/~5.2mm displacement. I have no clue of the SI 18 HT 18 distortion that might be blameless as well.
In an f-3dB= 25 Hz BR the distortion at 25 Hz is 5-6% at max if the port is closed but far lower if not.
b
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Thanks for your subwoofer model but I already bought yesterday 2x SDX12.
Now I want to find the best box for max SPL between 10-60hz.
for now the SDX12 not impresses me (on paper spec) with her big drop -10db at 20hz but I try to find a BOX solution to boost this freq.
Anybody realise a AMAZING project with this sub on diyaudio.com ?
thanks !
nicK
Now I want to find the best box for max SPL between 10-60hz.
for now the SDX12 not impresses me (on paper spec) with her big drop -10db at 20hz but I try to find a BOX solution to boost this freq.
Anybody realise a AMAZING project with this sub on diyaudio.com ?
thanks !
nicK
Maybe...........
Dual driver ~9 Hz, ~454 L [net] DTS concept TH corner loaded. It can handle at least 1 kW in a sim, so in theory has some upgrade potential, but even with 500 W it’s nearly 120 dB/m down to 10 Hz if your room’s construction is rigid, massive enough.
Unfortunately, a high compression ratio [CR] is required [~4.77:1], so with no knowledge of how much acoustic pressure the driver can handle, it may start audibly distorting at lower power.
If I design it for longevity [2:1 CR], then net Vb jumps up to ~1175 L, though peak SPL increases to >125 dB above ~20 Hz, which in a typical HIFI/HT room is guaranteed to damage one’s hearing and often the home’s construction.
The layout of either would look like DSL’s DTS10 ‘Super Spud’ TH: Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit
Of course someone will have to figure its folding dims and due to its size, performance potential, expensive 19 mm/13 ply Baltic Birch or Appleply plywood will be required same as the DTS 10, so I’m guessing either design is well beyond your size, budget constraints.
Scaling it back to a simple ~12 Hz, 2:1 CR tapped pipe [TP] to get most of the performance is a fairly easy to fold ~347 L [net], so while still quite large by most folk’s standards, it’s not too bad if either laid down or stood up in a corner. If you can handle the weight, this one could be built with a somewhat cheaper exterior grade flakeboard and some bracing similar to these: Horn Sub Input Please - Page 3 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
GM
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DTS-10
Hi again !
It's hard time and skills to calculate DTS-10 enclosure for 1x SDX12 ?
You use HORNRESP for that or what ?
I can use 1" MDF for this TH ? Because here the birtch ply is very expensive VS MDF.
thanks in advance!
by the way... ALL the people in USA have CNC or what !
Waybe a question of skills again because I can't do all the enclosure what I view with my simple router and bench saw? If anybody have TIPS or VIDEO to help me with that
nicK
Hi again !
It's hard time and skills to calculate DTS-10 enclosure for 1x SDX12 ?
You use HORNRESP for that or what ?
I can use 1" MDF for this TH ? Because here the birtch ply is very expensive VS MDF.
thanks in advance!
by the way... ALL the people in USA have CNC or what
!Waybe a question of skills again because I can't do all the enclosure what I view with my simple router and bench saw? If anybody have TIPS or VIDEO to help me with that
nicK
I did dual driver designs in HR, but can reduce them to single driver. Note that they won't have quite as good an overall performance if placed in separate corners or some other wide spacing.
You can use 1" MDF if the weight isn't too much for you to move around during construction and/or have to move them up/down stairs alone, though of course protect yourself from the toxic dust. You may still need some bracing like is in the DTS10 though, so better safe to add some than be sorry later. It’s very expensive here too, anywhere from ~3.5 - 4x more/square ft.
Well, many folks have access to companies that do CNC, but it’s not particularly cheap unless you want a bunch of replicas. Regardless, I mostly use ‘pocket hole’ screw joints to clamp the panels while the glue dries. I use DIY jigs from long ago, but one can buy this nifty kit or just the parts you want separately: Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System - Amazon.com
For bookcases, drawers or similar I use an adjustable dado on either a radial arm or table saw, depending on the app since fine furniture quality fit/finish suitable for staining isn’t a primary goal for me.
I didn’t look, but I imagine that there’s numerous videos on routing, dadoing available.
GM
You can use 1" MDF if the weight isn't too much for you to move around during construction and/or have to move them up/down stairs alone, though of course protect yourself from the toxic dust. You may still need some bracing like is in the DTS10 though, so better safe to add some than be sorry later. It’s very expensive here too, anywhere from ~3.5 - 4x more/square ft.
Well, many folks have access to companies that do CNC, but it’s not particularly cheap unless you want a bunch of replicas. Regardless, I mostly use ‘pocket hole’ screw joints to clamp the panels while the glue dries. I use DIY jigs from long ago, but one can buy this nifty kit or just the parts you want separately: Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System - Amazon.com
For bookcases, drawers or similar I use an adjustable dado on either a radial arm or table saw, depending on the app since fine furniture quality fit/finish suitable for staining isn’t a primary goal for me.
I didn’t look, but I imagine that there’s numerous videos on routing, dadoing available.
GM
thanks GM for your tips !
I buy the kreg set it's a good product to easy joint wood
I think hornresp not work in windows8 too
If anybody can help me to calculate the best enclosure for ONE CSS DX12 subwoofer for best SPL in very low freq 15-60hz
TAPPED HORN , SEALED, PORTED or...BANDPASS !?
thanks in advance!
nicK
I buy the kreg set it's a good product to easy joint wood
I think hornresp not work in windows8 too
If anybody can help me to calculate the best enclosure for ONE CSS DX12 subwoofer for best SPL in very low freq 15-60hz
TAPPED HORN , SEALED, PORTED or...BANDPASS
!?thanks in advance!
nicK
Last edited:
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