Quick n easy,
Any recommendations on diy/new/used subwoofer thats preferably uk based?
Main floor-standers are -3 at 50hz so I need a sub because they do not satisfy by their own. I've not heard good enjoyable bass for a while so...
First impressions via google, BK seem to manufacture for alot of 'reputable' sub companies like for rel and mj acoustics, but I'd like re-assurance here considering google gives back so many millions results and top results are usually heavily sponsored.
Undecided on ported vs sealed, I think ported is a more natural sounding approach involving air, seeing majority of studios at least in the 80s era I think were ported.
It will be for music playback, some more recent tracks in my list go to 28hz or so, I like that 80s funk / hip hop sound too and have alot of up-beat music like house though I think bpm is not an issue if a sub is powered properly.
The room its for is is about 4 by 5m or so, I think XXL400 from bk would do the trick or save up for monolith (overkill it).
If its cheaper a diy kit would be cool if the result is superior. :)
Thanks for reading
Some links (uk), others:
IPL ACOUSTICS SPEAKERS FOR HOME CINEMA USE
Velleman Subwoofer Kit
Home Theater Forum - Home Theater Systems - HomeTheaterShack - DIY Subwoofers Members Build Project Database
My recommendation for music is two good speakers with good strong LF extension. Subs is mainly for special effects or HT. After saying that, if you need a sub to give you some lacking low frequency, they will not give you stereo sound like the speakers pair, try understand what size type you will need, amp, and make mention of the system you have.
Thanks for the reply
Well my understanding is I have a small room so I could get away with one calibrated woofer but yes two would be ideal.
I'm not one for sitting in the bang in sweet spot either.
I do have two 8 inch monacor sp210 (90db) drivers in a 25L approx (mission 700) box, but I've yet to experiment with perhaps an amp more capable of LF because 50rms one I have isnt doing that pair justice. I think 8inches should be sufficient for good levels considering how small the room is.
I also have another pair are 6.5 inch drivers which I think I could just augment with one sub.
The reason I say this is I had a cheap 2.1 desktop system and it sounded pretty good with the bass and that was even in a larger room.
I've tried a gemeni by bk and it sounds utter rubbish really, though again its yet to be calibrated and a better amp perhaps for mains.
recently got an ecm8000 mic so going to take measurements soon.
Even in a small room, I think 8" will strain to move enough air. Maybe one of the ultra-long-throw types could be OK, but I still just prefer more surface area.
Sealed designs have a better time response than ported. However, ported subs can move a lot more air since both the cone and port are active. That is why almost all subs are ported. Ported can sound boomy and nasty, or if tuned lower, can sound fine and tight.
I'm not sure what brands you have available in the U.K. Here you would get a lot of nice callouts for Hsu Research, SVS, Paradigm. What brands are by you?
The MONACOR SPH-210 is not a good sub. It works great in a BR or horn for >F3 44Hz.
I have no doubt they make nice midwoofer speakers set with properly matched/designed crossover/speakers.
The subs you posted - link - look great also.
What you need with this setup it's the lower <50Hz extension as you mention.
A driver like the 8" SCANSPEAK 22W/8851T00 can get you to the lows F3 32Hz, but that is not enough for you.
The Vifa-PEERLESS NE265W-04 (/08) can put you in the vicinity of the 28Hz -3dB (no equalization), 29 for the 4 Ohm (45L) and 28 for the 8 Ohm in a 62L BR enclosure tuned to 30Hz.
You can achieve the best response of your system with the Scanspeak 26W 4558T00 Discovery set for a maximized sub with a 67L BR enclosure (net) plus internal port and drivers volumes and tuned to 26Hz (F3=25Hz, ff).
(The ports are extra long considering as an example a smaller enclosure with a rectangular (1x) port 6cm (or 6.5) x 25cm for a 60L@27/28Hz BR gives port >80cm-90cm in length.
To be more precise, Scanspeak 26W 4558T00 - 67L@26Hz, for the first alignment; (1xrectangular) port 6.4cm x 25cm, 83cm in length.
XXL400 vs Velodyne CHT 10/12Q(R) | AVForums
What sub please?
Download WinISD, learn how to input new drivers, input the JBL GTO1214, and run a few models of sealed and ported designs.
I put together a 2x12" (with those drivers) sealed subwoofer that'll go below 20Hz, and put a 1kW QSC amp behind them. Cost ~£220, plus wood and crossovers, and I'll knock the stuffing out of anything you can buy for that price.
Want to go louder?
Go ported. 120L (per driver) and tune to 18Hz. You'll be ~flat (in room) to 18Hz, but you'll need a steep low-cut below 15Hz to prevent overloading the drivers.
The JBLs are very good inexpensive alternatives.
What method would we say we preferred for music? Ported or Sealed?
Not keen on ported if low cut is required as my mains can only do -3 @ 50...
Thanks for the replies.
Also, I don't want mega loud, I do live in a residential area :P
If you don't mind using a car audio subwoofer driver, Infinity REF1260W might be a decent choice for sealed box. It has low free-air resonance frequency and Qes/Qts values of around 0,4. Not very usual parameters for an automotive 12" woofer.
You can take a look at the data sheet here:
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