I'm building a radio to go in a raft for floating the river. It will be custom built from the ground up. One of the many problems with version 1.0 was that the subwoofer was pointed straight up. This meant that while floating the river all the bass was being shot straight up into the air. Version 2.0 will probably have a 12" 1000w RMS woofer (TS-W3002D2).
I'm open to suggestions on how to solve this problem. I was thinking that placing something a few inches over the woofer for the sound to bounce off of might be effective. Either a flat surface or I could build a cone shape made out of fiberglass to bounce the sound out instead of back down towards the woofer.
Another thing I was thinking of doing was replacing the 1000w woofer with 4 250w woofers and pointing them outward. That complicates the build design though because I have a limited height requirement. This contraption needs to fit in my truck bed under the cover.
Attached are pictures of a cooler radio I made in one day with "Who cares if this sinks" quality parts. I plan to reuse the raft in these photos and possibly the SLA battery but that's about it.
I'm open to suggestions on how to solve this problem. I was thinking that placing something a few inches over the woofer for the sound to bounce off of might be effective. Either a flat surface or I could build a cone shape made out of fiberglass to bounce the sound out instead of back down towards the woofer.
Another thing I was thinking of doing was replacing the 1000w woofer with 4 250w woofers and pointing them outward. That complicates the build design though because I have a limited height requirement. This contraption needs to fit in my truck bed under the cover.
Attached are pictures of a cooler radio I made in one day with "Who cares if this sinks" quality parts. I plan to reuse the raft in these photos and possibly the SLA battery but that's about it.
Attachments
A sub floating in a raft is about as close to half space as one can possibly get.
A small sub on a raft radiates hemispherically, regardless of the speaker's physical location or orientation in the cabinet.
A 12" speaker is omnidirectional to around 100 Hz, to get directionality at LF requires (multiple) large enclosures, or an end fire or cardioid array, difficult to implement on a small raft.
That said, with a a MiniDSP, 3 amp channels, the right delay and spacing between three rafts, around 10 dB of forward steering could be achieved, as long as you could keep the orientation "forward".
A little trolling motor in reverse on the rear raft would keep the direction right..
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I sorta addressed it to begin with when I said "One of the many problems..." The use of a shared space is only one of the many design flaws. For instance, those mids have posts through the center of the speaker so the box is not only sharing space, it's also sorta ported. There's also the boss amp selection. The mids are no-named POS speakers I picked up in a pawn shop roughly 10 years ago. Not to mention the cooler retains heat generated by the amp really well.
I literally slapped all this together in one evening. I knew about all the flaws but the goal wasn't to win any SQ competitions, it was to have some tunes on the river while getting sloshed and not put so much time, money, and effort into it that I cared if it sank.
I literally slapped all this together in one evening. I knew about all the flaws but the goal wasn't to win any SQ competitions, it was to have some tunes on the river while getting sloshed and not put so much time, money, and effort into it that I cared if it sank.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This may fit in the raft.
An 18" crossed to HF horn "tweeters" would be called a "woofer".
"Sub" means below, as a 18" below a 12" or 15" woofer.
18" to HF horns are a bit unusual (and generally don't match dispersion at the crossover point) but have been used in some commercial loudspeakers.
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