Need Help with Sub for Man Cave

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Hi guys. I need some advise. A bud from work wants me to help him with his upstairs man cave. He has nothing right now but I have a lot of Klipsch woofers, horns, tweeter, xovers etc etc that I can use to make about 20 different combos.

I've got 8 of the 10" Sammi PE 299-284 8 ohm woofers laying around. My friend has an 18' deep x 17' wide room with a slightly angled ceiling. In the front left and right corners he has two 24" x 60" wide closets with removable bifold doors. He wants to remove the doors and install a large grill frame panel on both side.

I'm trying to figure out if I can use 4 of the Sammis on each side wired series parallel for 8 ohm loan and then parallel them for a 4 ohm load for a 150wpc sub amp. Don't know if open back will work well with these. Anyone with experience with a tapped horn (for four per cabinet???). Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.
 
Hi,

T-TQWT's that are using 4 Drivers/Sub will do the jobb well.:D

b:)
 

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Sammi Sound 10" Part #: 299-284

Ok longdrive03,
There are 2 types of alignment for BR, one (option #1 with 21Hz tunning), can give you with lower Qt, easily ~10Hz rolloff. Option #2 can give you a lower F3, with higher Qt (call it flat if you want), but doesn't achieve the LF ultrasounds like in option #1 and it has also lower rolloff than option #1 (option #2 with 26Hz tunning).
By the way this driver is good for TL's types (TH's and quarterwaves) and extra large BR's.
For each driver you can have net space/volume VB = 257.7 L.
(257.7L = 9.1006ft³ x #drivers). A 4" port will work for each of the drivers.

Sammi Sound 10"
Example #1:
4 drivers mounted in series/parallel
~100 dB/2.83V/m (1 driver 92.8 dB/2.83V/m).
Max. theoretical SPL with speaker pair: 1.00 m - 121.5 dB
Power used (RMS): 78.4 W/8.0 Ohms/23.0 Hz, 87.3 W/7.1 Ohms/217.3 Hz
VB = 910.4 L, FB = 23.0 Hz
(910.4L = 32.150ft³)
Ports: If you are using 2" ply for baffle make just 3 holes of 4" each (this gives you a 2" length port). :cool:

Edit: ok, bjorno is just giving you the other type of enclosure possible that I mentioned. :D
 
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WHOA!!!! That is a big box! Thanks for the responses fellas but I may have to go to plan B,C, or D on this one. I might be trying to put the square peg in a round hole (or vice versa). I feel like Jethro Bodein (sp??) on this one! I've got 4 12" Klipsch subs that might have to be put in service on this one. The attraction is the two large enclosed closets on each side which measure 64"w x 80"h x 20" deep. You can get a lot of speaker in that area. I'll reconsider the options based on the feedback left and come back later with my thoughts. Thanks again.
 
Hi,

FWIW The Sammi drivers are suitable for a few things,
with their very high sensistivity, low Fs and Qts but
the absolutely whopping Vas of 6.5 cuft rules them
out of most mainstream designs, they are unusual.

I wonder what they were built for. OB is my guess.

Open backed something, what I'm not sure.

rgds, sreten.
 
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Ok guys, change of plans. I've got some Klipsch K-1050-K 12" subs with the below specs:

The specs on 1050 are: re 3.5ohm, fms 37.99, zmax 49 ohms. qes .5373, qms 7, qts .4990, sd 53235m2 (82.51 i2), vas 86.85 L; bl 11.26, mms 81.3, cms 215.74, 91.22db 1w/1m. I don't know xmax but guess 10mm.

I'm considering using two of these subs in a box in each of the two closet. I.e. two wired in series for 8 ohm load then wired in parallel with second 8 ohm load. I posted on using this setup with one Adire Audio PR15 on another thread but no replies.

Looks like two of these in a 13cf cabinet ported can get to 28 F3 in 13cf with two 7.3" long 4" ports. If anyone has other or better thoughts please advise. I'll try to post a pic of the room. Thanks.
 
Ok guys, change of plans. I've got some Klipsch K-1050-K 12" subs with the below specs:

The specs on 1050 are: re 3.5ohm, fms 37.99, zmax 49 ohms. qes .5373, qms 7, qts .4990, sd 53235m2 (82.51 i2), vas 86.85 L; bl 11.26, mms 81.3, cms 215.74, 91.22db 1w/1m. I don't know xmax but guess 10mm.


Looks like two of these in a 13cf cabinet ported can get to 28 F3 in 13cf with two 7.3" long 4" ports. If anyone has other or better thoughts please advise. I'll try to post a pic of the room. Thanks.

Looking at the magnet structure, the Klipsch K-1050 might have 5mm Xmax at best.

I think the Tub Sub with the Sammis would probably beat the K-1050 in the larger enclosure.
The tapped horn Sammi 10" "Tub Sub" details are in post #8 here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/227541-500-diy-subwoofer-challenge.html
You did not reply after posting the same question as in your OP here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/206955-10-plus-wood-18hz-isot-tqwp-sub-2.html
Was there something you didn't like about the dual or quad 10" Tub Sub design?

Art
 

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Thanks for the response Art. I took another look at your post and I don't think your box will fit my application. The termination on your box is firing sideways. The closets I have are only 22" deep but have opening width of 60" and height of about 82". As built these would have to fire up (or down) rather than out of the closet opening. Tell me if I'm wrong here. Is there a way to restructure the layout? I'm committed to a L&R speaker in each closet that is 20.5" wide x 49.5" high x 15.75" deep. If you have thoughts I'd like to hear them.

Also your post shows your wire two Sammis in series for a four ohm load. If I did series (16 ohm) then wired the two cabinets in parallel I would get an 8 ohm load at the sub amp (150wpc at 8 ohms).
 
Is there a way to restructure the layout?
If I did series (16 ohm) then wired the two cabinets in parallel I would get an 8 ohm load at the sub amp (150wpc at 8 ohms).
The exit could be moved to the side or "bottom" (standing the Tub Sub up the bottom would now be a side) with no problem for a dual.
That said, if you simply put the cabinet upright and raised it off the floor with legs the design would need no changes.
If you did go for a pair of quads (a quad version would be 103 dB one watt one meter half space at 60 Hz), with double the side exit the response might be slightly different, but still workable.
The angled top is not needed for an indoor version, it was just to keep rain and snow running off.
150 watts for four Sammis in the Tub Sub would be a good match.
 
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