I have a logitech subwoofer....don't laugh

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
this is the 8" subwoofer that is part of the z2300 series.

If you are keen...please read the detailed specs of this sub and amp combo found here: Logitech Z-2300 [ The Last of the Titans : Review] - Logitech Forums

I don't use the speakers, just the sub. It is actually more convincing in a home theater than you might imagine. The sub has a natural sound to my ears, I do like it...others have reported that changing the driver gives them even more performance.

Some questions:

- would you agree that an upgraded driver would be a worthwhile thing to do?
- if so, which driver(s) would you recommend.
- am I wrong to think that the box and amp are worth the 50 dollars I paid?
- would I benefit at all by not using the satellites? More headroom?

I am not a basshead...I am ok with only having coverage into the 30's. I find that some in the DIY community can go overboard in their pursuits...I am not one of these folks. But I do appreciate those that go to the nth degree...it's just not me, and I'm a cheapskate.

One thing I can say is that I always prefer 8inch subs...at least, in my small basement room, they just sound the best to my ears. I actually prefer this 8" logitech to several others I have had and tested.

Tell me what you think.
 
With the right supply most amplifiers should deliver more power when the load
diminuishes; ideally, it should be double power when load halves.
Building such an amp and relative supply ...it's a little different than talking
about a small amp fitted inside the box; btw the outputs use a very short cable to reach speaker's terminals. One major improvement is to put the electronics out of the box; two major improvements would take two bass boxes and two better satellites :rolleyes:
( once you settle for a bigger bass, you would want a better mid-bass...then a much more refined vocal range, then a plausible upper-range :D)
 
I already have satellites hooked up to a receiver...

I would also consider buying another one of these...they seem to sell for 60 dollars used. I think 2 would be very sufficient for my theater needs.

Could i plug the port too? I also prefer a sealed sub...but, then I may lose even more off the low end. I guess I could experiment with this.
 
Noooohh, I was jocking and confusing
If you want to give a price to the whole piece of manifacture, they might be worth
the price. For the same price you would get a bare speaker and nothing else.
My purist side would like to toy with the bare speaker !
On the other side, there are amplifiers, filters and some electronics; then, a bare speaker
is not well suited to do bass. According to what I read around here, power figures of 10X need to be taken into consideration when talking about subs... in accordance to the fact that most of the cones are heavy and to produce much bass a cone must have excursion, so it needs a lot of energy to move ( it has also lot of resistance to overcome...acoustically speaking)
So it's not a good start to...start assembling from cheap electronics/boxes; but it's nice to find the limits of each thing and try to extend it a little further
 
Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Take a look at the TDA7295 datasheet.
On the Review you posted it said that two TDA7295's were bridged to drive the sub.
Running a 4Ω woofer on that bridged arrangement may damage the amplifier.
If in fact the Sub Amp portion is Paralleled instead of bridged as the review claimed then a 4Ω woofer would be fine.

Just be cautious.
 
this is the 8" subwoofer that is part of the z2300 series.

If you are keen...please read the detailed specs of this sub and amp combo found here: Logitech Z-2300 [ The Last of the Titans : Review] - Logitech Forums

I don't use the speakers, just the sub. It is actually more convincing in a home theater than you might imagine. The sub has a natural sound to my ears, I do like it...others have reported that changing the driver gives them even more performance.

Some questions:

- would you agree that an upgraded driver would be a worthwhile thing to do?
- if so, which driver(s) would you recommend.
- am I wrong to think that the box and amp are worth the 50 dollars I paid?
- would I benefit at all by not using the satellites? More headroom?

I am not a basshead...I am ok with only having coverage into the 30's. I find that some in the DIY community can go overboard in their pursuits...I am not one of these folks. But I do appreciate those that go to the nth degree...it's just not me, and I'm a cheapskate.

One thing I can say is that I always prefer 8inch subs...at least, in my small basement room, they just sound the best to my ears. I actually prefer this 8" logitech to several others I have had and tested.

Tell me what you think.
Hi

If you have something close in T/S specs to that tangband, it will be suitable for horn loading. The enclosure matters as much as (or more than) the driver.

To get informed opinions, I first suggest you find the T/S specs for your drivers or measure them yourself. Here's one way I've measured drivers in the past. http://zobsky.blogspot.com/2008/01/simple-loudspeaker-measurement-jig-for.html
 
As a long time speaker engineer, I advise you to leave the driver alone. If you want another driver, start a new project with a sturdier cabinet. But since you seem to like the sound, I think you should:
- Coat the inside with anti-vibration goop (that's another thread to ask what is best. Auto body undercoat is possible but maybe not optimum and smelly. Cascade Audio Engineering has various items.
- Normally, I say put a good stuffing in the box. But that is tricky with ported boxes, it can change the tuning. In this case, maybe some kind of absorptive material, especially on a wall opposite the inside of the port, so midrange frequencies can't bounce out of the port. But only if the inside of the port does not become blocked.
In either case, be careful about the amp, so as not to block/cover it and overheat it.

THEN...get another of these, and stack them. Or 2 more. Or 17!!:eek:

As for the amp, very very few amplifiers, and certainly not in this kind of product, actually deliver much more dynamic power clipping into 4 ohms instead of 8. MAYBE 1 decibel on a good day. In this case, yeah, you might blow up the amp.
 
thanks for the inputs...much appreciated.

I was over to hear a friends velodyne impact mini...a 6.5" sealed box with 8" passive radiator. I would say it had an edge over mine...but at 250 used vs 50 used, I will likely just get another one or two of these.

If I get two, you think stacking is a good plan?

One drawback may be the lack of phase switch. At my friends house he was playing me a scene from Saving Private Ryan, and I just thought it wasn't great...so I flipped the phase switch in the middle of the scene and the sub sounded a lot bigger.

I will look into the goop and sound deadening...what would you guys think the result would be if I plugged the port?

I must admit...I am not a fan of ports in subs. I love the sound of a sealed sub. But, as this was designed with a port, I never experimented with closing it...thoughts?
 
I love the sound of a sealed sub. But, as this was designed with a port, I never experimented with closing it...thoughts?

That's easy: try it! :)

Just be sure to get a REALLY good seal or it's not valid.

Probably you'll lose a lot of low frequency "meat" and definitely won't be able to put out as much SPL.

You could stuff the inside of the box to raise the apparent volume, which will have the effect of tuning the port lower. Without blocking the port or amp, there may not be much space for that in this small box however.

DO experiment with placement, it can make a big difference. The goop and stuffing-and internal bracing if possible-can also make a surprising difference.

huh, I could stack 10 of these for $500??? :cool:

The phase switch (really a POLARITY switch) has to do with the crossover...does this thing have any adjustment? Or an OFF position, so your receiver can do it?

You can always switch the wires at the speaker terminals. You could temporarily extend the wires out the port to a pair of double banana plugs. You could then flip that to easily change the polarity
 
Last edited:
well...they're only available on the used market. And I can usually get them for 50 or 60 bucks. Check your local classifieds for a z2300 system...the sub is a little gem.

The crossover is indeed controlled by the amp...so, I guess the only way to reverse polarity is as you mention with manually switching the polarity.

I had actually read that sealing the sub might make it go lower...I wonder where I read that???

So, all I could hope to achieve is lower spl and higher bottom end? That doesn't seem like the best of trades...
 
well...it sounded better when I plugged it. And, I don't think I lost much if anything in the lowest register.

I also adjusted the crossover point to 80Hz, and now I have a much fuller midbass...I think this sub is every bit as good as the Velodyne I heard the other day.

And that's not to say that either of them are world beaters, because they're not...but they're quite good.

I think a small room may benefit best from a small sub...now, I'm thinking two of these will really be smooth.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.