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Old 10th August 2013, 08:56 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zwiller View Post
After a brief review of Art's sketches can I ask some rookie/noob question as the the sequence of the build? Basically a 2 sheet build, right?

I assume there is some forgiveness in actual construction. Some measurements are to a ten-thousandths of an inch... Leaning on PL glue and shooting 16g nails with the occasional clamp for help lining things up. How far am I off? Thanks!
You can get 2 Keystone cabinets out of three 4x8 sheets, but you will need 2 sheets for one.

I always do the corner routing before assembly to save router bits which tend to disintegrate when they hit screw heads .

With four horsepower behind the driver, I run a bead of paintable caulk around the joints to be sure there will be no whistling leaks.
As long as the cabinet has no air leaks, don't worry about anything much if you are within 1/8" inch of the plans.

Art
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Old 12th August 2013, 02:37 PM   #22
Zwiller is offline Zwiller  United States
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Thanks Art. I continue to glean from the Keystone thread and found the info relating to the braces.

Seems weird there's no info or FAQ for cabinet construction in the construction forum... Not opposed to just jumping in with my wooddorking experience, it just seems like there are some tricks to lining up the horn, etc. I think I might make a foam board full scale drawing to guide me and use a band clamp to hold things while I tweak and fasten.

"How powerful is that sub?" 4HP!
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Old 12th August 2013, 04:41 PM   #23
sine143 is offline sine143  United States
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if you make a foam board scale model, you can just transfer that drawing onto a side one of the keystone. draw a dot in the middle of each panel on either end. put side 1 on top of side 2, drill holes straight through your dots. conect the dots on side 2. Now you have pilot holes, AND you have the drawing on both side. Dry fit it all together if your unsure of your skills, then let er rip with either arts yellow glue or PL glue.
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Old 12th August 2013, 06:23 PM   #24
Zwiller is offline Zwiller  United States
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Thanks sine! I knew there was something going with the foam panel since I've seen others posting them. Drilling both panels simultaneously is genius! My main concern (besides getting the sheets of ply home in my Grand Cherokee) is keeping stuff lined up during assembly. Hope the web clamp does the job.
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Old 12th August 2013, 11:26 PM   #25
sine143 is offline sine143  United States
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I personally just draw it straight on the plywood the first time, but doing it on the foam can give you that extra step of "is this right?"

just make sure your braces are the correct size by laying them on the first side in place after you've drawn the cab lines. to insure that they actually *fit* where you put them (braces made sized to the plans, and placed incorrectly will force the cabinet out of square)

I'm scanning through the keystone thread to find info on the braces. there are 9 braces in the cab. some decent pics of arts sketch can be found here @post 63 (link should take you straight there)

Keystone Sub Using 18,15,&12 Inch Speakers
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Old 13th August 2013, 01:56 PM   #26
Zwiller is offline Zwiller  United States
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I think I will do as you and forgo the foam board, sketch on one side, drill both, then use the sketched side for cutting braces and lining up for assembly. I'm starting to get a good feel for the build.

I am a little unclear about the bevel cuts. Can someone confirm I can cut the horn panels slightly oversize at 90 deg and come back and tweak the bevel? To me, it looks like the cut list is forgiving enough. Great utilization of material!
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Old 13th August 2013, 03:28 PM   #27
sine143 is offline sine143  United States
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Def cut a tad large and then bevel to taste, jus make sure it doesnt f with the number of sheets you need. Generally the most tome consumin part is baffle hole and braces.
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Old 3rd September 2013, 03:11 PM   #28
Zwiller is offline Zwiller  United States
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Won't be too much longer and my schedule will allow time to make sawdust.

Am I missing something complex about the baffle hole? Just a 16" hole centered 9.5" from top, right? Thanks.
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Old 3rd September 2013, 05:38 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Zwiller View Post
Am I missing something complex about the baffle hole? Just a 16" hole centered 9.5" from top, right? Thanks.
Hole size and centering depends on the speaker used, a BC18SW115 uses a 16.6" cutout diameter, Lab 12 uses 10.98" cutout diameter.
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Old 3rd September 2013, 06:08 PM   #30
Zwiller is offline Zwiller  United States
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Thanks. 16.6" for the B&C on mine. I just was confused when sine said cutting the baffle out was time consuming... I was worried there was some kind of angled recess that was on your original sketch. Plan to go old school with a jig saw.

I am gonna put off the driver purchase until I am confident of my cab work will be successful. I keep reassuring myself that I made some good sounding auto subs years ago with a circular saw and pocket calculator.
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